b/c I have no where to put it. Living in a dorm sucks... well except for all the chicks. I bought the heaviest duty u joints summit carried
Ladder/Traction bar ?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2005
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Ladder/Traction bar ?
I'm finally getting the truck up and moving, fixed my rear slip yoke, and front cv head. Just waiting for the u-joints from summit... which are on back order. So the next thing in line is some traction bars. Heres why I need them. When I first put the lift on... I never went back and retightened my u bolts on the rear axle. In not doing so... they worked loose and with the way I drove + the 44's... my axle started to rotate within the u bolts causing my blocks to start rounding out my spring perches. So now even with brand new u bolts retightened 3 times... yeah the axle def. still moves under a lot of torque.
So several of my questions are... should I go with traction bars that weld to rear, or use a u-bolt configuration? How long should I go? 48" 55" 60" or more? (standard cab, long bed) So what do you guys suggest? Any ideas, pointers?
So several of my questions are... should I go with traction bars that weld to rear, or use a u-bolt configuration? How long should I go? 48" 55" 60" or more? (standard cab, long bed) So what do you guys suggest? Any ideas, pointers?
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: GA
why not go get the u joints from a parts house, they are just standard 1330 spicers
i had the same thing happen to my rear perches a long time ago when i still had the stock 60 rear....i woudl suggest fabbing your own ladder bar (s) with a slip joint or shackle at the frame end, use poly bushings at the axle tube. for that truck i would make them 4-5' long
i had the same thing happen to my rear perches a long time ago when i still had the stock 60 rear....i woudl suggest fabbing your own ladder bar (s) with a slip joint or shackle at the frame end, use poly bushings at the axle tube. for that truck i would make them 4-5' long
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
the shackle or slip joint on the frame side of a ladder bar setup is a good way to go, but I wouldn't bother with putting poly bushings on the axle end of it, if you really look at the configuration of a ladder bar the axle end has no movement so why spend the time, and money building it with any type of movable joint on that end, you can either weld it or solild bolt it to the mount it's not going to make a difference. Mine are welded to the axle mounts, and I have my mounts both ubolted, and welded to the axle tube and even with both I still was starting to crack the welds at the edge so I really don't think that just ubolting them is going to be strong enough as they will do the same thing your spring mount ubolts did and just spin on the axle tube.
Its Comin Right for us!
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From: GA
i reccomend the poly bushings because they give the bar a tiny bit of "give" which helps absorb heavy shocks and vibrations, when hopping hard or dumping the clutch etc... as cheap as the bushings are i dont see why not.
i think the ubolt deisgn hes talking about is the l & l bar design....they do allow some twisting but they work OK, i wouldnt reccomend them
i think the ubolt deisgn hes talking about is the l & l bar design....they do allow some twisting but they work OK, i wouldnt reccomend them
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Mountain Pass
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,377
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From: Elkhart IN
wow, pricey. for much less i think you could contract the welding out to someone, and have them made just for your truck.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2005
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Really? Hmm? Maybe I should do that... thats the price for the 4ft. I think i'm going to be better off with 5ft since I have a long bed. And those are $410!!!
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Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: GA
instead of replacing the spring perches go ahead and throw a 1 ton under there with the cast steel perches... good excuse. find a buddy with a welder and a grinder and fab up some traction bars....be a good learning experiance for you welding
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: New Gretna, New Jersey
Originally Posted by KubotaOrange76
instead of replacing the spring perches go ahead and throw a 1 ton under there with the cast steel perches... good excuse.
I've done that myself on more than one occasion. Thats how I justified my Dana 70 and 1 ton rear shaft.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,277
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From: St George, SC I-95
I dont know how good these work but someone here sent me this link when I was looking at buying some traction bars. http://www.dzljim.com/Ford/traction.htm
I hope this helps.
I need to consider this again because I recently bought a 79 F250 with a 4" suspension lift 4.56 gears and detroit lockers front and rear and more traction couldnt hurt.
I hope this helps.
I need to consider this again because I recently bought a 79 F250 with a 4" suspension lift 4.56 gears and detroit lockers front and rear and more traction couldnt hurt.