Rear Diff Leak
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From: Phenix City, AL
Rear Diff Leak
Arrrrrrggghhh!
Changed the diff fluid a few weeks back and have had a leak ever since. Soooooooooo, I guess I gotta fix that today.
Here's my question. I used the black RTV sealant on it. Should I use a different one or is that the one to go with?
Red, blue, black.....what's your opinion?
Also, gotta finish welding my extra winch on to my trailer today.
Man, I hate being stuck outside, having to play with tools, drink beer, and annoy the wife (told her I'm lifting her Jeep while I was at it
). 
Changed the diff fluid a few weeks back and have had a leak ever since. Soooooooooo, I guess I gotta fix that today.
Here's my question. I used the black RTV sealant on it. Should I use a different one or is that the one to go with?
Red, blue, black.....what's your opinion?
Also, gotta finish welding my extra winch on to my trailer today.
Man, I hate being stuck outside, having to play with tools, drink beer, and annoy the wife (told her I'm lifting her Jeep while I was at it
).
Last edited by BFR250SD; Jun 17, 2006 at 08:23 AM.
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From: Milky Way Galaxy
Permatex Ultra-Black should have worked fine. I've used blue and grey as well and had no problems. The only problems I've encountered have been operator headspace and timing issues. As in, I torqued down to much and squeezed the gasket maker out, I didn't use the proper "star" pattern (or whatever pattern is required) when tightening it back up, or I just didn't torque down enough and then re-check the torque after 50 or so miles and then again at a 100.
Have fun with the Jeep. It's much easier to work on something when the parts are all a lot smaller.
Have fun with the Jeep. It's much easier to work on something when the parts are all a lot smaller.
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From: Phenix City, AL
Originally Posted by EnviroCon
The only problems I've encountered have been operator headspace and timing issues.
I'm gonna change it out and let it cure while I'm welding up the winch.
Everything works so well on this truck that the tiniest of things annoy me. I hate squeeks, creeks, leaks, etc., because they are so damn noticeable when everything is working right.
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From: Phenix City, AL
Ohhhhhhh, you didn't see this thread did you??????? 
Check post #19
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...t=Etreme+Focus
Torches and sawzall's and grinders......Oh my!!!
Check post #19
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...t=Etreme+Focus
Torches and sawzall's and grinders......Oh my!!!
Last edited by BFR250SD; Jun 17, 2006 at 01:36 PM.
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From: People's republic of MA
I used the black RTV a couple months ago... Just let the bead "skin" for a few minutes before attaching the cover to the diff, then let it dry for awhile before adding fluid (The Ford recommended stuff is $$$, yikes!)
Tom
Tom
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From: Phenix City, AL
That's what I did and it seems good so far. I think i just didn't get all the old oil off when I put the cover back on last time.
On another note....since I have the ARB lockers in this thing, I don't "need" the synthetic gear oil, like you do with the Ford LSD. But, I like to run good stuff in the truck and figured I put the synthetic back in. So Autozone, Advance, NAPA, etc each had like 1 qt of the 75-150 Synthetic. Sooooooooo, I figure I'll go to the dealership and see if they have any, and sure enough, they do. FOR $72 FOR 4 QTS.
I tell the parts guy he's outta his mind, as all the local store are around $8 a qt for the full synthetic.
Now I remember why I never go to the dealership for ANY work.
On another note....since I have the ARB lockers in this thing, I don't "need" the synthetic gear oil, like you do with the Ford LSD. But, I like to run good stuff in the truck and figured I put the synthetic back in. So Autozone, Advance, NAPA, etc each had like 1 qt of the 75-150 Synthetic. Sooooooooo, I figure I'll go to the dealership and see if they have any, and sure enough, they do. FOR $72 FOR 4 QTS.
I tell the parts guy he's outta his mind, as all the local store are around $8 a qt for the full synthetic.
Now I remember why I never go to the dealership for ANY work.
Last edited by BFR250SD; Jun 17, 2006 at 06:44 PM.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
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Oil Change
Changing diff oil did this help get rid of your pinnon noise you said on anouther thread you had the same noise I having.
Originally Posted by BFR250SD
That's what I did and it seems good so far. I think i just didn't get all the old oil off when I put the cover back on last time.
On another note....since I have the ARB lockers in this thing, I don't "need" the synthetic gear oil, like you do with the Ford LSD. But, I like to run good stuff in the truck and figured I put the synthetic back in. So Autozone, Advance, NAPA, etc each had like 1 qt of the 75-150 Synthetic. Sooooooooo, I figure I'll go to the dealership and see if they have any, and sure enough, they do. FOR $72 FOR 4 QTS.
I tell the parts guy he's outta his mind, as all the local store are around $8 a qt for the full synthetic.
Now I remember why I never go to the dealership for ANY work.
On another note....since I have the ARB lockers in this thing, I don't "need" the synthetic gear oil, like you do with the Ford LSD. But, I like to run good stuff in the truck and figured I put the synthetic back in. So Autozone, Advance, NAPA, etc each had like 1 qt of the 75-150 Synthetic. Sooooooooo, I figure I'll go to the dealership and see if they have any, and sure enough, they do. FOR $72 FOR 4 QTS.
I tell the parts guy he's outta his mind, as all the local store are around $8 a qt for the full synthetic.
Now I remember why I never go to the dealership for ANY work.
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From: Phenix City, AL
Honestly, I haven't gotten it up to highway speed yet. That's where I was hearing mine. I did add a full tube of friction modifier this time. I don't need it with the ARB's, but I figure I'd give it a shot.
Below 57 MPH I don't get any noise. Mine is weird, its at 57 - 62 that i really hear it. I thought it was the gears, but the after checking the pattern, that's fine. That was the original reason I pulled the cover.
Below 57 MPH I don't get any noise. Mine is weird, its at 57 - 62 that i really hear it. I thought it was the gears, but the after checking the pattern, that's fine. That was the original reason I pulled the cover.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 421
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Same Same
Mine the same pattern fine check the drive shaft at the trany they had to put a CV joint there for mine I running a 6 inch lift it would only make noise at high speed it's nice now like stock but the pinnon noise still being a pain to nail down I was told check the side play on the carrior with a dial intercator.
It sounds like the motor working hard and the exhaust tone sound like it blowing out I running a Z-Force turbo type exhaust.
Good Luck let me know what you come up with.
It sounds like the motor working hard and the exhaust tone sound like it blowing out I running a Z-Force turbo type exhaust.
Good Luck let me know what you come up with.
Originally Posted by BFR250SD
Honestly, I haven't gotten it up to highway speed yet. That's where I was hearing mine. I did add a full tube of friction modifier this time. I don't need it with the ARB's, but I figure I'd give it a shot.
Below 57 MPH I don't get any noise. Mine is weird, its at 57 - 62 that i really hear it. I thought it was the gears, but the after checking the pattern, that's fine. That was the original reason I pulled the cover.
Below 57 MPH I don't get any noise. Mine is weird, its at 57 - 62 that i really hear it. I thought it was the gears, but the after checking the pattern, that's fine. That was the original reason I pulled the cover.
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From: Phenix City, AL
Mine doesn't feel like it's overworking the motor or anything. It's just a whine at that specific speed. Not real bad, just enough to be noticeable.
Eventually I need to do CV driveshafts. The one thing I did do to help was flip the shims on the axle backwards. It gives me almost perfect angles between the t-case u-joint and the diff u-joint. Before I flipped them, the diff u-joint already had a slight upward tilt to it and as soon as you applied power (uhm, holy axle wrap) it was way out of whack. Now with power applied, it's almost dead straight. Go rid of all the vibration from the driveline.
Eventually I need to do CV driveshafts. The one thing I did do to help was flip the shims on the axle backwards. It gives me almost perfect angles between the t-case u-joint and the diff u-joint. Before I flipped them, the diff u-joint already had a slight upward tilt to it and as soon as you applied power (uhm, holy axle wrap) it was way out of whack. Now with power applied, it's almost dead straight. Go rid of all the vibration from the driveline.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
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Drive Line
My pinnon Angle was on just at the trany was off we notice this when the truck was on jack stands spinning the truck up to about 50 mph looking for the whiining noise it cheeper to fix it now than replacing the T-Case anyways this guy at the rear end shop owes me the truck been back to him 7 times now and they can't get it right yet.
Can you say freebee.
The shop never had this kind of problem rear end before he losing money on this deal.
Thats why I let them put this gear set in, this is there nightmare making it right.
They hate White Ford f-250 now.
Can you say freebee.
The shop never had this kind of problem rear end before he losing money on this deal.
Thats why I let them put this gear set in, this is there nightmare making it right.
They hate White Ford f-250 now.
Originally Posted by BFR250SD
Mine doesn't feel like it's overworking the motor or anything. It's just a whine at that specific speed. Not real bad, just enough to be noticeable.
Eventually I need to do CV driveshafts. The one thing I did do to help was flip the shims on the axle backwards. It gives me almost perfect angles between the t-case u-joint and the diff u-joint. Before I flipped them, the diff u-joint already had a slight upward tilt to it and as soon as you applied power (uhm, holy axle wrap) it was way out of whack. Now with power applied, it's almost dead straight. Go rid of all the vibration from the driveline.
Eventually I need to do CV driveshafts. The one thing I did do to help was flip the shims on the axle backwards. It gives me almost perfect angles between the t-case u-joint and the diff u-joint. Before I flipped them, the diff u-joint already had a slight upward tilt to it and as soon as you applied power (uhm, holy axle wrap) it was way out of whack. Now with power applied, it's almost dead straight. Go rid of all the vibration from the driveline.
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From: Phenix City, AL
Yup! The idiots that did my gears ended up buying a new gear set, install kit and (here's the biggie) a new rear ARB.
They lunched the initial install and the gears ate themselves and all the shavings took out the ARB as well.
That was an expensive learning experience for the shop.
Oh well, that's why you get paid to do it right.
They lunched the initial install and the gears ate themselves and all the shavings took out the ARB as well.
That was an expensive learning experience for the shop.
Oh well, that's why you get paid to do it right.