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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Pilot Bearing Problems

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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 05:51 AM
  #1  
Widall's Avatar
Widall
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Pilot Bearing Problems

I'm having problems in getting the remains of the pilot bearing out of the crankshaft in my 3.0 1994 Ford Ranger. A few weeks ago my wife said there was a terrible squelling and grinding when she stopped at a stop sign then it went away. I thought it was the throw out bearing going out. A week later the transmission became hard to shift and the engine had to be shut off to get the transmission in gear. I pulled the transmission and found the pilot bearing "chewed up". There were only a few needles left and apparently they were siezing on the transmission shaft. I tried to pull the remainer of the pilot bearing but the front lip pulled away. There is not enough room in the back of the bearing (toward the front of the truck) for the jaws of the puller to catch the bearing shell. I've tried heating slightly without getting the crank so hot that it ruins the rear main seal, I've tried splitting the shell with a cold chisel but have had no luck.My questions are:
How do I get the remainder out?
What was the original configuration of the pilot bearing?
A scary thought is that maybe the original shell is actually gone and I'm working on the actual surface of the crankshaft. The new pilot bearing is one piece, a shell with needle bearings inside but it is too big to go in the existing hole. Did the original bearing have the needles running directly on the crank with only a ring seal and metal retainer to hold the needles in place? Maybe I have the wrong replacement pilot bearing? HELP!!!!
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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This may not work if it chewed up to bad to seal. Years ago we had a bearing we couldn't get out and the old guy that owned the shop used a wood dowl to get it out. Use one that is the same size as the inside of the bearing. Fill The bearing with some grease and put the down on the hole and tap it with a hammer. The hydroglic force behind the bearing will push it out. I have used it many times and it is reallly amazing how easy they come out.
Dave
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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Sounds like it's too far gone for that. It's a great trick though.

I don't know of any Ford motor with a needle roller pilot bearing that has the needles running directly in the cranks, they're all replaceable inserts just like the one you bought. This is what comes up for your application:


The outer shell can be pretty tough sometimes and maybe the heat of the bearing destructing has tempered it a bit. I would take a punch and use it on the outer edge of the bearing shell, angled inwards and try to collapse the shell inwards to compress it a bit and get it to pull away from the crank surface.

Alternatively, clean it up good with some brake cleaner and compressed air so you can really see what you're looking at and maybe carefully cut through the shell with a Dremel tool, then you should be able to pull it right out.
 

Last edited by TigerDan; Jun 17, 2006 at 09:36 AM.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 12:13 PM
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Slowly, ever so slowly, Dremel it in with a cutting wheel. As long as you just cut through it and not the crank, you'll be perfectly aight.

RP
Zach
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 12:25 PM
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I have made a very narrow chisel by grinding a large nail. Reason being, the nail is softer than the crank. Just work it under the edge of the shell at one point and drive the chisel all the way back to split the shell or distort it enough to grab it with pliers.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:31 PM
  #6  
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Hank85713
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on my 4.0 it just fits into the flywheel, have you pulled it to see if maybe yours is the same?

Just a thought.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 04:29 PM
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Thanks guys for input. I'm down to the Dremel tool procedure next. I've tried the others and they haven't worked. I think TigerDan is correct in that the shell has been work hardned. I've relieved that the rollers do not ride directly in the crank. My next step is to borrow a dremel and work in one area. Once through the shell in one area I'll try the procedure again described by Bdox. It will probably be tomorrow before I get the Dremel. One more question, am I correct that the new bearing is to be installed with the "seal" toward the transmission? Also should a lubricant be used or something like Locktite especially if I have scored the inside of the crank? I really appreciate the help on this. The Ranger has been a great truck, almost 150,000 trouble free miles other than brakes until this.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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How much remains?

When my clutch was replaced on my 2.3, the pilot bearing was in pieces, leaving only the outer shell. I bought the removal tool from Mac (it was a repo'd tool) and it worked great, but I found out that the ol harbor frieght has one for around $10. For that, it might be worth a try.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 06:35 PM
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And a nail is even cheaper!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 09:45 AM
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I have used a very small round cold chisel, between the shell and the crank, stay in one spot and drive it in. the shell will split. And if you mar the hole it will only be one small spot which will not impede the new bearing. Good luck.

Yes, the grease trick work well.
 

Last edited by aquanaut20; Jun 18, 2006 at 09:50 AM.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 10:01 AM
  #11  
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I finally got the pilot bearing out! I had to resort to using a Dremel tool and grinding through the shell and then at 180 degrees partly grinding through again. I had to do this to get a sharply pointed punch under the edge of the shell. The shell was really hard (brittle), it broke other than bending. Many thanks to all that provided suggestions, I tried them all. The biggest problem was that the bearing was too far into the crank to allow the jaws of a puller to catch the back of the bearing shell. A friend suggested using a carriage bolt with a thin head that will just fit through the hole. This might have worked had I used this method first. I certainly appreciate the ford-truck web site and all the great people who take time to share their expertise.
 
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