How do the starters act when they start to go bad? Mine currently turns real slow but the longer you crank on it the faster it gets until the engine finally starts. The truck is an 89 f350 7.3 w/ 5spd 4x4 153,000 miles. I've had it around 2years. After it starts it runs great, but it has been hard starting as long as I've owned it. So far I've replaced all of the glow plugs (two broke off) with beru, new controller, fuel line from frame to lift pump, fuel line from lift pump to filter, all of the o-rings and caps on the injectors, the fuel lines between the injectors, plugged the return line to #1 injector, and replaced both batteries, alternator and voltage reg. Now I think the starter is going.

 

If the batteries are god, all connections positive and ground are good, there is a likelyhood of the starter being bad. You can take it to many parts stores and have it tested on the vehicle, but all will do it off the vehicle, but it is enough of a pain, I wouldn't want to pull it unless I was changing it. You can do a voltage test, which is where you hook up a volt eter to see how far down the batteries are going, they shouldn't drop below 11 volts typically, if they do ,the batteries are weeak, but if they don't, they are ok. Also, chech to see if the battery cables get hot, mainly the one on the passenger side, as that shows connection troubles, but also shows heavy amp draw. If you have access to one of the clamp style amp meters, you could also check that way. I don't know how many amps it should show, but you can at least see what it is pulling, and find out if is nomal or high.

 

My 93 f-350 was cranking slow at about 145,000 miles. The starter brushes were worn out so the springs no longer were making much pressure on the commutator. I had a electric rebuild shop install new brushes, turned the commutator, restored starter performance to like new. Cost me 60 bucks to get the new brushes installed.

 

My electrical rebuilder wouldn't even touch mine because they weren't worth rebuilding. Sold me a new Denso gear reduction starter (I think it is the same/ similar to the PSD or Cummins starter) cheaper than I could find a rebuilt OE style. Glad he did. Cranks over faster and easier with less amp draw. It will start when cold without glow plugs no problem if the temp is above 30 deg F.

Jason

 

Most starter rebuilders have trouble getting parts for the Mitsubishi gear reduction starters.

Delco, no problem they all have them.

 

The starter in my Dad's 92' started to get tired (slow down) around 200,000 miles and cold starting became increasingly difficult.

I got 134,000 miles on my 93 and the starter is still going strong.

One way to quickly finish off an aging starter is to run on old batteries. I usually replace both batteries every 7-8 years regardless of whether they are starting to go or not. Two new 1000 CCA batteries at Costco are just over $140. A new Mitsubishi starter is several hundred and they are a pain to change out.

 

Just remember its not the miles on the starter its how many times the starter has started the engine that hurts it!!!

 

I took the advise of rcrawler and bought a new gear reducer high torque starter. Should be in this week, and I hope it solves my problem. Someone said these starters are a pain to change out. Why? I know I can change the starter on my old 74 F250 highboy in about 10mins. Whats the difference on a diesel?

 

one of the bolts is hard to get to but not too bad and its heavy not that big of a job.. maybe a half a hour

 

The starter is held in with three bolts. Two are easy to get, the third one between the block and the starter is a bit of a pain. Can't get a wrench on it. You will need a socket and rachet with a long extension.

You will also have to disconnect and reconnect the solenoid wire once the starter is out as you can't get to it with the starter in the hole.

It took me four hours to pull my E4OD and transfer case the other day, an hour of which I spent pulling the darn starter as the bolt heads had been nicely rounded by the last owner who put in a new starter.

Check the teeth on your ring-gear while you got the starter out.

 

Changing starters on these is easy. Just need an extension that is long enough to clear the body of the starter and a 3/8" ratchet.

Jason

 

Received new starter yesterday and installed it last. To say the least, I was not impressed with the engineering and or forethought put into this design! The starter I replaced was the original equipment and it had to have been installed before the engine was set into the frame. After unbolting the three attachment bolts, the starter could not be removed because there wasn't enough clearance between it and the frame to allow it to come out. The only way I could remove it was to disassemble the starter "motor" from the end cone. Other poor designs, the solenoid sets too close to the exhaust manifold, mine ended up being very brittle due to excessive heat exposure, the wire connections are difficult to access unless you remove the starter, this would create a lot of unnecessary work if you only wanted to replace battery cables.
The new "high torque gear reducer starter" addressed many of these issues. Clearance problems are no longer an issue because the new starter is shorter. The wire connections are pointing straight down for easy access. Price delivered to my door $150.00 and this is a new starter not rebuilt.

 

catbird, where did you get the starter from?

 

DB Electrical. They're on the web.

 

coolness, thank you.