My 1993 Explorer has started stalling during deceleration
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From: Ft. Worth, Tx
My 1993 Explorer has started stalling during deceleration
My 1993 Explorer V-6, 2-Wheel drive has started stalling during deceleration. The explorer has stalled 3 times in the last 3 weeks during decelerating for the first time in 10 years. There is no lack of power, missing, noticeable problems and it starts without a problem after stalling. Please help or share your related experiences and cures. The check engine light is not on, which "I guess" means no code is saved related to the problem.
Thanks,
Joe
Thanks,
Joe
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From: Ft. Worth, Tx
My Explorer is an automatic. How can I tell if a code is stored before going to an automotive shop? Other concerns:
1. The new blend of gas in Texas since it stalled directly after two fill-ups.
2. Possibly a vapor lock since it has always been during close to100 degree
days when it stalls. BUT! My gauge is not showing above normal temp.
Plus, it starts like there's no problem.
3. I need to check my idle speed on my tac but the speed sounds as always.
4. Is there a sensor that regulates the idle or other possible problems?
5. With 102,000 I have only changed plugs @ 60,000 and air filter @ every 12,000.
6. Could I need to change the fuel filter even if I have good power?
Joe
1. The new blend of gas in Texas since it stalled directly after two fill-ups.
2. Possibly a vapor lock since it has always been during close to100 degree
days when it stalls. BUT! My gauge is not showing above normal temp.
Plus, it starts like there's no problem.
3. I need to check my idle speed on my tac but the speed sounds as always.
4. Is there a sensor that regulates the idle or other possible problems?
5. With 102,000 I have only changed plugs @ 60,000 and air filter @ every 12,000.
6. Could I need to change the fuel filter even if I have good power?
Joe
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It is probably your ERG unit or possiby the throttle body. The throttle body is a 1 1/2 inch round metalic with a flat 2 bolt phalange that is usually easily indentified where the air intake hose connects. The emission regulator is harder to find, both items are availible at most after market stores. I have taken my throttle body off and just cleaned it with carbuerator cleaner. Hope this helps.
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From: Ft. Worth, Tx
Thanks for the info on the EGR and throttle body.
1. Would an engine diagnostic test at Firestones @ 79.00 show these problems? Is it worth the charge in your opinion? Before the electronics took-over I basically did all of my troubleshooting, tuning and major/minor engine work. I have no problem having service work done when it is "Actually Needed" and above my skills or tools.
2. I cleaned a throttle valve on a past Volvo, didn't find much to clean after 100,000
3. Is there a service to the EGR or do I just replace? Such as, I noticed a vacuum test in it Camry's Haynes Repair Manual vs no suggestions in my Explorer's Haynes manual. Is the exhaust manifold the key to locating the EGR valve?
4. Approximate, what should my idle RPM be? I'm seeing about 750 on the dash Tac.
Thanks Again!
Joe
1. Would an engine diagnostic test at Firestones @ 79.00 show these problems? Is it worth the charge in your opinion? Before the electronics took-over I basically did all of my troubleshooting, tuning and major/minor engine work. I have no problem having service work done when it is "Actually Needed" and above my skills or tools.
2. I cleaned a throttle valve on a past Volvo, didn't find much to clean after 100,000
3. Is there a service to the EGR or do I just replace? Such as, I noticed a vacuum test in it Camry's Haynes Repair Manual vs no suggestions in my Explorer's Haynes manual. Is the exhaust manifold the key to locating the EGR valve?
4. Approximate, what should my idle RPM be? I'm seeing about 750 on the dash Tac.
Thanks Again!
Joe
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I think marragtop was on the right path with the IAC. I'd give that a clean first. This is the most important device controling idle speed. The IAC is supposed to be wide open on deceleration below 1,500 RPM's. Wide open gives max ir flow past the closed throttle valve. Keeping it open is to ensure it does not stall coming to a stop. If the PCM is telling to stay open and it's too dirty or just plain broken, the car can easily stall with your foot off the gas.
Your EGR is also supposed to be off or closed during decel. It only operates when warm and cruising. But if there is something messed up in the EGR system - leaking EGR valve or bad DPFE (EGR flow sensor) it could be adding to your problem. That is why it is important to read your codes. And BTW, unless you have a california car, 93's don't have EGR's.
Spend the $79 on a moderately prices scanner and plug it into the harness under the hood, passenger side, rear near the AC accumulator.
See what codes you have, try a Key On Engine Running test, get your data and then you can make the repairs.
Your EGR is also supposed to be off or closed during decel. It only operates when warm and cruising. But if there is something messed up in the EGR system - leaking EGR valve or bad DPFE (EGR flow sensor) it could be adding to your problem. That is why it is important to read your codes. And BTW, unless you have a california car, 93's don't have EGR's.
Spend the $79 on a moderately prices scanner and plug it into the harness under the hood, passenger side, rear near the AC accumulator.
See what codes you have, try a Key On Engine Running test, get your data and then you can make the repairs.
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From: Ft. Worth, Tx
Thanks for all the info from Everyone!
1. I'll have to get busy on my usual summer inspections and services.
2. I have tried to get the engine to stall by decelerating in safe areas but no luck.
3. I just checked under the hood info on vacuum routing and no EGR was listed.
4. I looked for RPM specs and d/n see any, what would say the idle RPM should be?
My real problem is when I stopped wrenching regularly, I got out of tune w/ problems.
Thanks Again! for all the help and ideas, I feel like I'm ready to do some investigating.
Joe
1. I'll have to get busy on my usual summer inspections and services.
2. I have tried to get the engine to stall by decelerating in safe areas but no luck.
3. I just checked under the hood info on vacuum routing and no EGR was listed.
4. I looked for RPM specs and d/n see any, what would say the idle RPM should be?
My real problem is when I stopped wrenching regularly, I got out of tune w/ problems.
Thanks Again! for all the help and ideas, I feel like I'm ready to do some investigating.
Joe
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Originally Posted by wickware
My real problem is when I stopped wrenching regularly, I got out of tune w/ problems.
Under normal conditions, engine at idle about 180-205 F, should be looking at ~750 RPM. If it's hot out and engine temp gets upwards of 215F, PCM will kick it up to ~900 and richen it up a bit to cool it down.
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From: Ft. Worth, Tx
I thought my throttle body was not that dirty until I cleaned it with B12 and a toothbrush. I have close up before and after pictures if you know how I can attach them or get your e-mail address. It was dirty but appeared to be closing good. The grime on the Pictures could be telling a story. It looked normal from my active wrenching about 15 years ago.
It has not stalled in the last 3 weeks even with me trying to make it stall by decelerating repeatedly. Plus, the RPM appears to be in spects. Lack of driving could be an issue. I have gone from approximately 6,000 mi a year to 2 - 3,000 and driving 3 - 4 days a week since retirement. I am walking daily for exercise and working or volunteering half days. Retirement has been a challenge toward staying active.
Thanks To All Again!
Joe
It has not stalled in the last 3 weeks even with me trying to make it stall by decelerating repeatedly. Plus, the RPM appears to be in spects. Lack of driving could be an issue. I have gone from approximately 6,000 mi a year to 2 - 3,000 and driving 3 - 4 days a week since retirement. I am walking daily for exercise and working or volunteering half days. Retirement has been a challenge toward staying active.
Thanks To All Again!
Joe
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From: Ft. Worth, Tx
Feedback that fits my stalling:
"If you overfill your tank on a hot day you can get a stall from to much fuel vapor in the charcoal canister."
The pressure in my truck's tank and boats gas cans is noticeable and handled with cautions on hot days here in Texas. But, I never related this to a possible stall. You live and learn!
I tried to find a ref. to this info in my Haynes Repair Manual and could not. Have any of you had a related stall or related with this problem before?
Thanks,
Joe[B]
"If you overfill your tank on a hot day you can get a stall from to much fuel vapor in the charcoal canister."
The pressure in my truck's tank and boats gas cans is noticeable and handled with cautions on hot days here in Texas. But, I never related this to a possible stall. You live and learn!
I tried to find a ref. to this info in my Haynes Repair Manual and could not. Have any of you had a related stall or related with this problem before?
Thanks,
Joe[B]
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From: Winnipeg, Mb. Canada
Interesting tidbit. You can also experience stalling on a hot day if you have very little fuel in your tank. The fuel acts as a coolant for the fuel pump. If you are low on fuel on a hot day, that fuel gets warmer than usual and can cause the pump to shut down.