68 C6 kickdown lever
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68 C6 kickdown lever
I've got a 68 F250 that had it's original engine replaced before I got it. It now has a holley carb but there's no kickdown lever for the C6. Is this right? Or am I just missing parts? Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 123
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From: Mine Hill NJ
***** B ?
I purchased my 68 F100 back in 95 and had it on the road till 2001, I never experienced any downshifting when I punched it that I can recall. I am in the midst of a ground up overhaul. Right now I am finishing up the frame and suspension and will be turning to the engine and body the end of next week. I started with the stock 360 and stroked it with a 390 crank & pistons and a set of 428 pistons. I plan on installing a 750cfm Holley to meet the new breathing requirements. So my question is should I worry about throwing in the kick down which is missing from my truck as well or is there some way this might have been eliminated without causing an issue?<O:p></O:p>
Also if I need one can I fabricate one or search the graveyards online for one?<O:p></O:p>
I have had little success locating anything here in NJ.
I purchased my 68 F100 back in 95 and had it on the road till 2001, I never experienced any downshifting when I punched it that I can recall. I am in the midst of a ground up overhaul. Right now I am finishing up the frame and suspension and will be turning to the engine and body the end of next week. I started with the stock 360 and stroked it with a 390 crank & pistons and a set of 428 pistons. I plan on installing a 750cfm Holley to meet the new breathing requirements. So my question is should I worry about throwing in the kick down which is missing from my truck as well or is there some way this might have been eliminated without causing an issue?<O:p></O:p>
Also if I need one can I fabricate one or search the graveyards online for one?<O:p></O:p>
I have had little success locating anything here in NJ.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
I am no expert when it comes to trannys - plus I am in the middle of my own C6 crisis right now. You might post this on the transmission forum and get a better response.
But I would not run it without a kickdown - I expect it puts a lot of extra load on your gears and clutches. You can downshift it yourself, but things will work much smoother if you let the transmission do its job as it is designed to.
It sounds like you did a lot of performance upgrades - not only will your engine work better if it raps a bit instead of lugging when you punch it, but your transmission will last longer.
Let me solve my problems with my swap, afterwhich I can mail you which ever linkage I don't use. You will likely need to modify it a bit to work with your carb, but that should not be a big deal.
PM me in a few weeks if I should forget.
But I would not run it without a kickdown - I expect it puts a lot of extra load on your gears and clutches. You can downshift it yourself, but things will work much smoother if you let the transmission do its job as it is designed to.
It sounds like you did a lot of performance upgrades - not only will your engine work better if it raps a bit instead of lugging when you punch it, but your transmission will last longer.
Let me solve my problems with my swap, afterwhich I can mail you which ever linkage I don't use. You will likely need to modify it a bit to work with your carb, but that should not be a big deal.
PM me in a few weeks if I should forget.
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
When you order the new carb be sure you order it for a Ford with the kickdown lever on the carb. Best bet would go to the wreckers or a Pick-N-Pull for the hollow kickdown rod, if your lucky you'll find one with the plastic bushings not busted off. I ended up machining nylon bushings for both ends. Get the metal E clips. The trans will shift down faster with a kickdown than a manual shift which means less clutch slip, wear. That rod is hollow and light, making a solid one is too heavy.
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I thought it was missing and should have a kickdown rod. I've looked in the local yards but most have scrapped the older trucks. I'll try and fab one. My truck has a 428CJ inplace of the original 390 but still has the throttle linkage mounted to the rear of the intake and then to the carb. Does the kickdown attach to this? It has a spare hole in the back
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I am currently in the same situation with my 72 f-250 (360,c-6) it also has a holley and no kickdown wich sucks because when you punch it there is no kickdown, it just winds up. i found one at a junkyard (linkage), but i am having some issues installing it. if i remember correctly, the linkage works in conjunction with the throttle linkage at the rear of the intake. let me look in to it and see what i can figure out. maybe we can help eachother out.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
The kickdown mounts to the trans lever and a floating lever on the carb, nothing to do with the throttle linkage mounted on the intake. The carb must have this added Ford kickdown lever as most carbs do not unless they came off a Ford with a auto trans. You can change out the throttle plate if it's the correct size with one that has the kickdown to your carb body if it doesn't have one or order a throttle shaft with one thru Holley. How big is your wallet?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
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From: Near Fresno, California
Some pictures for you guys to look at - first shows the carb linkage Beemer was talking about, second the tranny levers - there are two on the same bolt, one for the shifter, the other for the kickdown. I forget which is which, but maybe the top lever is the kickdown.
The last picture is the kickdown rod itself - I think it will be hard to make one, it is a hollow aluminum rod and does not weigh much.
Sorry about the quality of the pictures - I will clean the parts a bit and position them better tonight if anyone needs better pictures. I am in a bit of a time crunch right now.
The last picture is the kickdown rod itself - I think it will be hard to make one, it is a hollow aluminum rod and does not weigh much.
Sorry about the quality of the pictures - I will clean the parts a bit and position them better tonight if anyone needs better pictures. I am in a bit of a time crunch right now.
Last edited by WillyB; Jun 16, 2006 at 01:05 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
If you happen to play around with your motor (I do) like adding a 2" four hole carb spacer the kickdown will be too short. I collected four of 'em then cut and Tiged two together so I have the original factory one, one for a 1" spacer and one for the 2" spacer. They're common on any FE/C-6 vehicle not just trucks in the wreckers or a Pick-N-Pull. Get the E clips also.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 123
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From: Mine Hill NJ
Ok guys, on fabricating this thing I can help.
First thing we need a tracing of an original rod. If some one can make a paper tracing and then scan it into there pc we could all get this thing on the cheep.
You can reproduce the thing in copper and paint it or polish it as you prefer.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
The way I make Chandeliers and scrollwork in brass will give you the most desirable results. You’ll need is to go to a tire shop or scrap yard and get about a coffee can worth of used wheel weights for the lead. Then get copper plumbing tubing the appropriate diameter, M is softest but K or L will work. They are just a little tougher to bend. If you have a gas grill with a burner you can melt a portion of the lead in a small steel can like the coffee can, burt a small sauce pan works nicely. If you use a can just be sure to use a pair metal tongs to pick it up for pouring the molten lead. You’ll need a small steel or aluminum funnel as well. A Tin funnel will melt instantly and you could get burned. <o:p></o:p>
Lead alloys begin to melt a 475* F and are fully liquid at around 620 *. Please be careful! <o:p></o:p>
Use the appropriate leather gloves and safety goggles. A leather apron is also a good thing. <o:p></o:p>
Print the scanned pictures and tape them together to create a pattern. Lay it out on the workbench. Take a piece of strings and follow the string along the line of the linkage on the pattern to get a measurement of length. Add at least a foot to the measurement. Plug the end of the tube with a copper end cap or a tight fitting bolt works nicely. Put a container on the floor and fill with kitty litter. This is to stand the tube in, cap end down, while you pour the lead into the tubing. I recommend you use the clay instead of sand as some modern sands are milled limestone wich can explode and kitty litter will not as it is a cheap source of clay.<o:p></o:p>
Place the funnel into the tube and pour the lead to the top. Let the tube cool completely. Do not submerge the tube into water as molten metal mixing with water or spit will cause the water to become steam and explode molten metal everywhere. <o:p></o:p>
Once the lead has cooled to room temperature you now have a soft rod you can form into the new linkage that will not collapse when bent. One you have finished your bends you can take a regular propane soldering torch and melt the lead out into the can from the open end. Now you can Finnish fit the ends to the length you need and flatten in a vice. Now you can you can get the new nylon bushings, drill the tube ends to size, and install.<o:p></o:p>
The only thing that is stopping me is if somebody could send me the scanned pattern pictures. If the project seems little beyond anyone once I get mine made I could work on extras and as long as its only a few request make them for the cost of materials and the shipping. I’m not making a sales pitch here as my time is money too and I did just tell you haw to so the job.<o:p></o:p>
So anyone got a pattern?<o:p></o:p>
John
First thing we need a tracing of an original rod. If some one can make a paper tracing and then scan it into there pc we could all get this thing on the cheep.
You can reproduce the thing in copper and paint it or polish it as you prefer.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
The way I make Chandeliers and scrollwork in brass will give you the most desirable results. You’ll need is to go to a tire shop or scrap yard and get about a coffee can worth of used wheel weights for the lead. Then get copper plumbing tubing the appropriate diameter, M is softest but K or L will work. They are just a little tougher to bend. If you have a gas grill with a burner you can melt a portion of the lead in a small steel can like the coffee can, burt a small sauce pan works nicely. If you use a can just be sure to use a pair metal tongs to pick it up for pouring the molten lead. You’ll need a small steel or aluminum funnel as well. A Tin funnel will melt instantly and you could get burned. <o:p></o:p>
Lead alloys begin to melt a 475* F and are fully liquid at around 620 *. Please be careful! <o:p></o:p>
Use the appropriate leather gloves and safety goggles. A leather apron is also a good thing. <o:p></o:p>
Print the scanned pictures and tape them together to create a pattern. Lay it out on the workbench. Take a piece of strings and follow the string along the line of the linkage on the pattern to get a measurement of length. Add at least a foot to the measurement. Plug the end of the tube with a copper end cap or a tight fitting bolt works nicely. Put a container on the floor and fill with kitty litter. This is to stand the tube in, cap end down, while you pour the lead into the tubing. I recommend you use the clay instead of sand as some modern sands are milled limestone wich can explode and kitty litter will not as it is a cheap source of clay.<o:p></o:p>
Place the funnel into the tube and pour the lead to the top. Let the tube cool completely. Do not submerge the tube into water as molten metal mixing with water or spit will cause the water to become steam and explode molten metal everywhere. <o:p></o:p>
Once the lead has cooled to room temperature you now have a soft rod you can form into the new linkage that will not collapse when bent. One you have finished your bends you can take a regular propane soldering torch and melt the lead out into the can from the open end. Now you can Finnish fit the ends to the length you need and flatten in a vice. Now you can you can get the new nylon bushings, drill the tube ends to size, and install.<o:p></o:p>
The only thing that is stopping me is if somebody could send me the scanned pattern pictures. If the project seems little beyond anyone once I get mine made I could work on extras and as long as its only a few request make them for the cost of materials and the shipping. I’m not making a sales pitch here as my time is money too and I did just tell you haw to so the job.<o:p></o:p>
So anyone got a pattern?<o:p></o:p>
John
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 123
Likes: 1
From: Mine Hill NJ
***** B
Pictures are not an issue. We have a Kodak 5mp camera I use for my ebay stuff. I'll ask my wife to snap of some shots. The pics of the install will work out nice to cause I won't have the cab on the truck untill late July, early August, and you'll see the linkage clearly.
I wonder if the lack of a kick down linkage is why my shifter falls out of park so easily. I know I need to get some new bushings and such for the columb but do you think that the missing kick down could be part of the problem?
Thanks
John
Pictures are not an issue. We have a Kodak 5mp camera I use for my ebay stuff. I'll ask my wife to snap of some shots. The pics of the install will work out nice to cause I won't have the cab on the truck untill late July, early August, and you'll see the linkage clearly.
I wonder if the lack of a kick down linkage is why my shifter falls out of park so easily. I know I need to get some new bushings and such for the columb but do you think that the missing kick down could be part of the problem?
Thanks
John
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
I can not see how the kickdown would cause that - you can run the shift lever by hand with it out of the truck - you should feel a positive snap when it goes into park as well as the other gears.
I had one years ago that the pawl broke off inside the tranny - as I remember you dropped the pan and could reach every thing you needed to replace it. You need to ask a better expert than me about this.
You have a PM, mostly asking for your postal address - I will ship you the kickdown rod on Tuesday, assuming you email or PM me back with your address.
I had one years ago that the pawl broke off inside the tranny - as I remember you dropped the pan and could reach every thing you needed to replace it. You need to ask a better expert than me about this.
You have a PM, mostly asking for your postal address - I will ship you the kickdown rod on Tuesday, assuming you email or PM me back with your address.