68 C6 kickdown lever
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Joined: Jun 2003
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My 63 uni 390/C6 has a kickdown rod that I made out of thick walled aluminum tubing. It is about 7/16" OD. My engine was too close to the firewall to use a stock rod. I got the bend down using a thick welding rod for a template. I then bent and adjusted my aluminum tubing, mashed the ends flat in a vise drilled the end holes and installed it. It's been on there for 10 years now with no problems. I also have a 69 Mustang floor shifter that has been on the truck for 20= years.
Incidently not having the kickdown hooked up on the trans has no affect on the trans other than disabling the downshift when you stab the gas. It does not put any strain on the trans not having it hooked up. When you stab the gas against the kickdown lever, it increases line pressure in the trans, causing it to go to the lowest gear that the governor speed will allow. Also, with the increased line pressure, it holds the gear longer as long as your foot is in it.
Incidently not having the kickdown hooked up on the trans has no affect on the trans other than disabling the downshift when you stab the gas. It does not put any strain on the trans not having it hooked up. When you stab the gas against the kickdown lever, it increases line pressure in the trans, causing it to go to the lowest gear that the governor speed will allow. Also, with the increased line pressure, it holds the gear longer as long as your foot is in it.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2006
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Thanks for the help. I'd thought about using copper tubing to fab one but didn't know if it would be strong enough. The Holley carb I've got on the truck looks to have the Ford kickdown linkage beside the throttle linkage. I've got another 390/C6 I pulled from another truck but it too is missing the kickdown rod. Even without the kickdown rod my truck passes with ease but sometimes it sure would be nice to have!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 123
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From: Mine Hill NJ
68F250CJffice<O
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"I'd thought about using copper tubing to fab one but didn't know if it would be strong enough."
<O</O
Type M is the softest of the plumbing coppers; L and K are more tensile and rigid. Copper makes a decent knife, hatchet, or tool as long as the purity is not 100 percent. You'll remember Bronze and Brass are basically copper with zinc or tin added. For the linkage there is not a lot of resistance at the carb. I chose it off the top of my head as it is the most readily available and low cost metal I could think of. You can get it at almost any hardware or home supply.
Steel pipe is cheap but the diameter and wall we are talking about is considered tubing. Tubing for what ever reason is more expensive then even bronze tube. I know from having ordered the tubing for a job a few years back and nearly fainting when the bill came in after the job was out the door.
I suppose you could use electrical conduit to do it if you can match the size.
If you go with aluminum it’s by far more expensive and difficult to work with. It doesn't like to bend easily and needs to be annealed before you try. If the annealing is not properly done the aluminum fractures along the curve and the part is useless.
Copper will not do this and is plenty strong enough for the kick down. Plus should it break it is easily repairable with minimal tools. Anyone who’s tried to repair aluminum without a Tig welder will back me up here. Cast aluminum will weld ok with an arc welder if it prepped right but thin wall tube ….ha ….good luck.
And by the way if you can get a couple of old sockets you can chrome plate the copper in a plastic tube real quick. Old silver forks and spoons work nice too and the silver is much brighter then the chrome.
Now wouldn’t that look sweeter then painted steel.
</O"I'd thought about using copper tubing to fab one but didn't know if it would be strong enough."
<O
</OType M is the softest of the plumbing coppers; L and K are more tensile and rigid. Copper makes a decent knife, hatchet, or tool as long as the purity is not 100 percent. You'll remember Bronze and Brass are basically copper with zinc or tin added. For the linkage there is not a lot of resistance at the carb. I chose it off the top of my head as it is the most readily available and low cost metal I could think of. You can get it at almost any hardware or home supply.
Steel pipe is cheap but the diameter and wall we are talking about is considered tubing. Tubing for what ever reason is more expensive then even bronze tube. I know from having ordered the tubing for a job a few years back and nearly fainting when the bill came in after the job was out the door.
I suppose you could use electrical conduit to do it if you can match the size.
If you go with aluminum it’s by far more expensive and difficult to work with. It doesn't like to bend easily and needs to be annealed before you try. If the annealing is not properly done the aluminum fractures along the curve and the part is useless.
Copper will not do this and is plenty strong enough for the kick down. Plus should it break it is easily repairable with minimal tools. Anyone who’s tried to repair aluminum without a Tig welder will back me up here. Cast aluminum will weld ok with an arc welder if it prepped right but thin wall tube ….ha ….good luck.
And by the way if you can get a couple of old sockets you can chrome plate the copper in a plastic tube real quick. Old silver forks and spoons work nice too and the silver is much brighter then the chrome.
Now wouldn’t that look sweeter then painted steel.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
I would be careful with making a kickdown out of heavy material the extra weight could cause it to go into passing gear while on bumpy roads.
The factory lever is light weight thin wall steel, someone should have one and ship.
The factory lever is light weight thin wall steel, someone should have one and ship.
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