hey guys i have a 1993 7.3 was non turbo now it is. (this problem been happining before i installed the turbo) but the glowplug light comes on then waits a sec then after that it goes out and you hear lieka cylonoid clicking like veery second for about 10-20 seconds... it jsut keeps going click click click ect ect... is it suppost to do that? the truck is always hard to start after sitting for a while. the glowplugs themselfs are good.
thanks,
Jimmy

 

Sounds like your GPs are not working or burnt out.......

93 year info.......other than some fuses mentioned the 7.3 system 87-94 is basically the same.

GLOW PLUG CONTROL
HOW THE CIRCUIT WORKS
The Glow Plug Control circuit applies power to the Glow Plugs, which heat the combustion chambers so that the diesel engine can be started.

Glow Plug Controller
The solid-state Glow Plug Controller, attached to the top of the engine block, controls the Glow Plug pre-glow and after-glow time. It also controls the circuit’s operation by sensing engine temperature, Glow Plug voltage and after-glow voltage
from the start/run circuit.

When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied through the Glow Plug Controller to the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp.
The Glow Plugs heat up in zero to fifteen seconds, depending on engine coolant temperature. After the Glow Plugs heat up, the controller cycling switch opens and turns the Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp off. The Glow Plugs are now warm enough for the engine to be started.

At the same time the Ignition Switch is turned to RUN, voltage from Maxi-fuse K is applied to the after-glow timer (located inside the Glow Plug Controller). The after-glow timer cycles the Glow Plugs for up to two minutes, depending on engine temperature. The after-glow timer then opens. The Wait-To-Start Indicator Lamp will not light during the after-glow period.
If the Ignition Switch is turned OFF, it can be turned to ON immediately, and the Glow Plug heating cycle will start again.

Diesel Start/Run
The diesel engine uses two batteries to provide extra power for starting and Glow Plug heating. Power is applied from the batteries, through heavy gauge wires, to the Starter Solenoid (located in the Starter Motor assembly). When the Wait-To-Start Indicator goes out, the Ignition Switch can be turned to START.

With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, voltage is supplied to the Fuel Heater, Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, and the Engine Temperature Switch through Maxi-fuses K and U.
The Fuel Heater is in the Fuel Filter/Separator. It heats the diesel fuel, melting any wax that might clog the filter. The heater has an internal thermostat to turn it on as needed at 32*F.

The Fuel Shutoff Solenoid controls the flow of fuel into the injection pump. With the Ignition Switch in START or RUN, the Solenoid is energized, and fuel is allowed to flow into the injection pump. When the Ignition Switch is turned off, the solenoid is deenergized, fuel flow stops, and the engine stops running.

The Engine Temperature Switch provides voltage to the Cold Timing Advance Solenoid and the Cold Idle Solenoid. When the engine temperature is below 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch is closed. When the Ignition Switch is turned to START or RUN, the solenoids are energized, advancing injection pump timing and engine idle, allowing the engine to run more smoothly when cold. When the engine temperature reaches 112°F (44°C), the Engine Temperature Switch opens. This deenergizes the solenoids, returning the timing and idle to normal.

 

the term , after sitting for a while ... is that daily or is that if it sits for several days at a time with no use? If this is daily, I would venture to guess there is a fuel bleed back problem. If the engine starts, runs for a short time and stalls, that is sure sign of fuel bleed back. If it just starts hard in the morning, it could be sign of bad glow plugs or controller.

 

The short wait to start light time says burnt out glow plugs to me.

 

ill check the glowplugs again but i just replaced them about a month ago. and it still was hard to start. just getting worse now then it was before. i dont know what its problem is.

 

i had a 88 with short wait to start problem. found the terminals on the controller were corroded on the heavy leads. cleaned them up carefully and good to go. could also be the controller itself.

 

My 1992 F250 7.3 had the click click click click click problem with longer and longer start times. GP regulator (?) needed to be replaceds as it has a short which kept it recycling. After that replaced all the glow plugs becasue they had suffered too. Try that. HOWEVER -- that being said ----

Now I have a problem which has shown up since al this... even in the summer time it does not start in the a.m. I have to plug it in to warm up the block. It can be a matter of minutes plugged in and it will start. Thought maybe the gps were not all getting power. It's at the mechanics now, and he said they were all getting power.

QUESTION: Could the compression be a problem such that just a little bit of warmth makes it fire up right away because the block expands? It is weird, as when it has been plugged in (a matter of minutes sometimes) it will usually catch almost instantly. Also, it's usually good to go all day even if off several hours. Had some trouble at a horse show last week as it had sat more than 8 hours. I end up carrying my extension cord with me which could be problematical in some settings. (I tell people I an ecologically in tune and have an electric truck.) ;-)

Would love some input. Have picked up some ideas on one of the forums for newer diesels ....

 

What brand of glow plugs did you install?

If it was any brand other than Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs, the life will be very short and there could be issues when you go to remove them.

Swelled tips, broken glow plugs and worse stuff.

 

power to the glow plugs doesnt mean the plugs themselves are good. the posts about glow plugs will show how to test them, with the power off.

 

Is there any way to tell if they are the Motorcraft/Beru ones before removing them? Do the other brands have any distinguishing features?

 

also is that clicking noise normal once the wqait to start light goes out? cause after it goes out you hear a clicking noise that is pretty loud.
thanks,
jimmy

 

Believe me, the clicking was not the norm. It kept clicking longer and longer. Clicking thirty times on a warm day doesn't cut it. The GPC was bad.

 

Re the brand used -- Motorcraft.

 

where can you buy a glowplug controler at?
thanks,
Jimmy

 

Are you close to Morgantown, WV?