Advice needed after base/clear/1000G
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Senior User
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From: Central OH
Advice needed after base/clear/1000G
Hi all,
Just lookin' for a little advice. I painted my replacement bed on my rig, base/ clear, in Ford black. I am just a firefighter, not a painter pro, but can get some of it done, enjoy it, and the truck has 174K on it. Not looking for a showroom finish. But.
The breeze picked up on me a couple more MPH than I thought it would, due to a late start. Yes, I was outside, long story short, low humidity and a full shop, thought I could squeeze it in early morning. I had to lay the clear on from pretty close range. I hit it with a wet 1000g paper about 6 hrs later, and it smoothed off pretty well, but what is the next best step?
2000G, then a rubbing compound, then a polish compound? Straight to rubbing? I dont have access to a polisher, but would rent one if it would save some elbow grease. Also am scared of burning the finish. I did hit a small section of it with rubbing then polishing compound, and it will come around, but takes a lot of work.
Not trying to shortcut anything, just looking for someone that has been here before.
Thanks,
Digger Treinish
Just lookin' for a little advice. I painted my replacement bed on my rig, base/ clear, in Ford black. I am just a firefighter, not a painter pro, but can get some of it done, enjoy it, and the truck has 174K on it. Not looking for a showroom finish. But.
The breeze picked up on me a couple more MPH than I thought it would, due to a late start. Yes, I was outside, long story short, low humidity and a full shop, thought I could squeeze it in early morning. I had to lay the clear on from pretty close range. I hit it with a wet 1000g paper about 6 hrs later, and it smoothed off pretty well, but what is the next best step?
2000G, then a rubbing compound, then a polish compound? Straight to rubbing? I dont have access to a polisher, but would rent one if it would save some elbow grease. Also am scared of burning the finish. I did hit a small section of it with rubbing then polishing compound, and it will come around, but takes a lot of work.
Not trying to shortcut anything, just looking for someone that has been here before.
Thanks,
Digger Treinish
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
After the 1000 grit go to 1200, then 1500 then 2000. It will save you time in the end. Rent a buffer and use a light compound after the 2000 grit wet sand. After that use a polishing compound that can be used for the buffer. Meguires carry a full line of the products and tells you at what rpm the buffer should be used at. If you keep the buffer moving all the time and dont press to hard you shouldnt burn thru. Be carefull on the corners and edges as the paint is thinner in these areas. Put masking tape on the edges if you are concerned of burning thru and do those spots by hand.
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From: Central OH
Cool, I was heading for the 1500, but will hit it with 1200 too. I am not too scared of a buffer, just concerned. I got 4 cc's on it, so I have a tiny bit of leeway. Thanks for the help.
Mississauga, ON? Played some hockey up that way.
Mississauga, ON? Played some hockey up that way.
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I would use 1200 then 1500. If you have access to a DA and a good auto body store ask them about the 3M trizact 3000 DA pad. Just run over the truck with it and keep it good and wet with a medium amount of pressure. This pad will save you a lot of time buffing. It is so easy to buff out the 3000 scratches it leaves. I would then use a 3M extra cut lll rubbing compound on a white foam pad and for swirl mark removal the 3M trizact compound with a gray pad. Good Luck.
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Senior User
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From: Central OH
Well,
thanks for the advice. I hit it with 1000, 15, 2000, then rubbing compound, then polishing compound with a buffer, and it looks awesome. Much better than I had expected to come out. Matches the dealer work closer than I thought I could get. Add the stone guards and bed caps, and I am in like flint.
Thanks alot for all the input. Nice to come to this site and get good info.
Go Oilers!
Fordff
thanks for the advice. I hit it with 1000, 15, 2000, then rubbing compound, then polishing compound with a buffer, and it looks awesome. Much better than I had expected to come out. Matches the dealer work closer than I thought I could get. Add the stone guards and bed caps, and I am in like flint.
Thanks alot for all the input. Nice to come to this site and get good info.
Go Oilers!
Fordff
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Good to hear it worked out.You would be surprised how much the wet sanding and buffing can improve a paint job. Oilers lost last night.Great series.
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Hi fordff
I'm getting in a little late to help but I did want to ask what polish and what pads you used. Proper selection can make a big different and avoid surprises later. Otherwise the advise you received was awesome.
As a note - Drdetailforless is building a web page just for firefighters. It will be up soon and will offer special discounts for FAXed orders on station letterheads.
It will also offer a gallery for firefighters
Dr. Detail - www.drdetailforless.com
I'm getting in a little late to help but I did want to ask what polish and what pads you used. Proper selection can make a big different and avoid surprises later. Otherwise the advise you received was awesome.
As a note - Drdetailforless is building a web page just for firefighters. It will be up soon and will offer special discounts for FAXed orders on station letterheads.
It will also offer a gallery for firefighters
Dr. Detail - www.drdetailforless.com
Last edited by Dr. Detail; Jun 20, 2006 at 11:26 AM.
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From: Central OH
Yeah, I wish they would have pulled it out, but you are right, very exciting series.
Thanks DrDetail, I ended up going from 2000G to buffing with polishing compound. Skipped rubbing compound due to the other FFs having scary tales. Didnt come out too bad, but when the sun hits it just right, it still has a milky sheen. Other than that, I am cool with it. May play a bit with the rubbing compound later if I get ballsy.
Used a buffer at 300 RPM, just shined the compound right in. Any advice?
Thanks DrDetail, I ended up going from 2000G to buffing with polishing compound. Skipped rubbing compound due to the other FFs having scary tales. Didnt come out too bad, but when the sun hits it just right, it still has a milky sheen. Other than that, I am cool with it. May play a bit with the rubbing compound later if I get ballsy.
Used a buffer at 300 RPM, just shined the compound right in. Any advice?
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Buffer sounds a little slow to me, but I am not a professional. I think with the right pads,polish and buffer speed the milky sheen could easily be removed.Not sure if you are interchanging the words compound and polish and meaning the same thing.There is a difference. The polish should come after the compounds and then the glazes and waxes. I have seen guys use a small spray bottle of water to spritz the surface in the finishing stages to help keep the surface a little cooler in an effort to avoid swirl marks. Personally I have never ever been able to get rid of them. It can get fairly technical.
Last edited by mississauga; Jun 24, 2006 at 05:36 PM.
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fordff
2000 grit is a very fine step so you shouldn't have any trouble cleaning it up.
Mississauga has some advise. Your buffer is definately slow. Paints can be worked up to 2300 rmps and I like the 1700 to 2000 rpm range.
2000 grit will easily come out with light compound (Aggression level 9) but should also work with light cleaners like Meguiars #'s 1, 2 or 4. You should use a wool pad to work them. Doing it by hand will not give as good results.
Follow with a Cleaner Glaze like Meguiars #82 Swirl Free or #9 Swirl Mark remover for the finer cleaners. Pure Polishes or Glazes (same thing) only hide the problem temporarily. The glaze you choose must have the lightest cut to take out compounding marks.
You should use a foam pad for the cleaner glaze. Using a wool pad will still leave marks.
Can you remember the Manf & Product names of what you used???
2000 grit is a very fine step so you shouldn't have any trouble cleaning it up.
Mississauga has some advise. Your buffer is definately slow. Paints can be worked up to 2300 rmps and I like the 1700 to 2000 rpm range.
2000 grit will easily come out with light compound (Aggression level 9) but should also work with light cleaners like Meguiars #'s 1, 2 or 4. You should use a wool pad to work them. Doing it by hand will not give as good results.
Follow with a Cleaner Glaze like Meguiars #82 Swirl Free or #9 Swirl Mark remover for the finer cleaners. Pure Polishes or Glazes (same thing) only hide the problem temporarily. The glaze you choose must have the lightest cut to take out compounding marks.
You should use a foam pad for the cleaner glaze. Using a wool pad will still leave marks.
Can you remember the Manf & Product names of what you used???
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From: Central OH
Dont laugh.
Terry cloth pads, with a wool buff afterwards. Turtle wax Polishing Compound. I did buy some 3M scratch remover, tried it, with good results, but one of the FFs that was a body dude before the FD said it would eventually fade. The gloss right now matches the work the "true" body shop did, if another compound would step it up, I would do the whole truck. If I put Zymol on it, it really looks nice, just dont want to go back to waxing.
Still have some swirl marks, but nothing too bad.
Any advice on what compound? I will turn up the buffer speed, when I get to it next week. Thanks both of you for following this thread. One of my divers in training on the FD looked at it, and wants me to shoot his farm truck, but I know I could make it better yet. Still nice when a hillbilly gets a compliment, especially one shot outside.
Terry cloth pads, with a wool buff afterwards. Turtle wax Polishing Compound. I did buy some 3M scratch remover, tried it, with good results, but one of the FFs that was a body dude before the FD said it would eventually fade. The gloss right now matches the work the "true" body shop did, if another compound would step it up, I would do the whole truck. If I put Zymol on it, it really looks nice, just dont want to go back to waxing.
Still have some swirl marks, but nothing too bad.
Any advice on what compound? I will turn up the buffer speed, when I get to it next week. Thanks both of you for following this thread. One of my divers in training on the FD looked at it, and wants me to shoot his farm truck, but I know I could make it better yet. Still nice when a hillbilly gets a compliment, especially one shot outside.
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fordff
Thanx mississauga.
I mentioned products in my previous post. Check out my website. Look at Paint Care/Abbrasive Cleaning/Level 8 or 9 for removing the 2000 grit marks. Follow with Paint Care/Conditioning Glazes/Level 3.
It will give you recommendations for the most effective products for your situation.
If the sanding marks are really gone maybe all you need is the Cleaner/Glaze.
Use a wool pad for the compounding step and a general purpose foam pad for the glaze. You'll find examples under Buffers & Pads/Rotary Pads
With the right products you won't need the wishes but I'll wish you good luck anyway.
Thanx mississauga.
I mentioned products in my previous post. Check out my website. Look at Paint Care/Abbrasive Cleaning/Level 8 or 9 for removing the 2000 grit marks. Follow with Paint Care/Conditioning Glazes/Level 3.
It will give you recommendations for the most effective products for your situation.
If the sanding marks are really gone maybe all you need is the Cleaner/Glaze.
Use a wool pad for the compounding step and a general purpose foam pad for the glaze. You'll find examples under Buffers & Pads/Rotary Pads
With the right products you won't need the wishes but I'll wish you good luck anyway.
Last edited by Dr. Detail; Jun 28, 2006 at 01:01 AM.
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