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I'm a novice, and learning. I just swapped out the TB, ECU, and all wiring and vac from a 3.8l '86 T-Bird to my 2.8l '84 BII. The engine starts, and runs for about 4 or 5 minutes, then quits. Sometimes it will start right back up if I push the throttle wide open, otherwise I have to wait 20 minutes or so. If it starts right up again, it only runs for a few minutes. The key off, engine off codes say everything is good except for the EGR valve being open when the test is started. I haven't done the KOER, as my reader won't do it. I've noticed that right after the engine stops, if I open the throttle and look into the TB, there's a vapor coming up the barrels. The vapor stops after a few minutes. Anyone have any ideas as to why the engine runs GREAT for those few minutes and then quits? Is it the pressure regulator?
The ECU thinks the engine is cold at all times and is staying in the open loop preset enriched values.
When you go to WOT the ECU shuts off the injectors as you are telling the ECU the engine is flooded.
Sound like you did not hook up the ECT sensor, this sensor has two wires on it and mounts near the gooseneck of the top radiator hose.
I'll go through the wiring tomorrow when its light, but a quick look showed the sensor as being wired. Is there a way to test the ECT sensor? Look for voltage change, or something?
Does it smoke and die slowly, or just shut off?
Did you put a return line in all the way back to the tank, and are you using a tank mounted pump or inline pump?
Checked the wiring and the ECT is wired right all the way to the computer. Both fuel and return lines are new and connected (I checked to make sure). The intank pump is new, too. No smoke at all, it just dies. It runs beautifully at an idle, then dies. No sputtering, no hesitation, nothing. Like the switch was turned off. I'll try to run the KOER tests today, but with it quiting, I don't know if I can.
I have 1 vac line not connected and I have no idea where it is supposed to go. The T-Bird diagram says it is for the "YLF" and it connects to something called "C/O NCV" (maybe, closed/open normally closed valve - but what is it?). I'll close it off, and run the tests.
Ok, if anyone cares, I fixed the problem and have another. It's obviously electrical, so I'll open a new thread under electrical. I basically tidied up my electrical and vacuum. While doing so, I found that the WOT relay wasn't wired to the A/C cycling switch, AND that I had two vacuum leaks. Also, the water was way low in the radiator, so subford may have been on the right track. Thanks for the input, all of you.
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