Filling A4LD
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,014
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From: SoCal
Filling A4LD
In my first pass at getting the van on the road, I was trying to flush and fill the transmission in the way that was explained by others on this list. It occurs to me that I don't know how the torque converter can get fully filled during operation. Before installing, I filled it as much as I could by hand. I think it less than two quarts before it would start to leak out when I turned it upright. When installed, the centerline of the torque converter is above the normal fill level in the pan, so I'm not sure how it can ever get or stay completely filled. Then when I tried to add fluid through the dip stick tube, I could not add more than 4 more quarts to it. I'm sure the owner's manual said 10 quarts for a 4wd model. So I run the engine a little, but the pan level stays the same. I drove it around a bit, and the level stays the same. It that seems after the initial fill, the torque converter won't take any more.
So is there a way to properly fill the torque converter, and is it suppose be "fully" filled? How?
So is there a way to properly fill the torque converter, and is it suppose be "fully" filled? How?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Northern California
Exactly! as Ken said! As long as your filter (screen?) is new or completely clean, the converter will fill to the correct level after a few seconds, I'll disagree with Ken here, and say 13 seconds it will fill with clean, fresh, pristine candy apple red ATF! Just check your ATF level after varying driving conditions, on a level surface, engine idling in park. The only time you'll get an overly higher than actual capacity reading, is checking your ATF if towing with your Aerostar, or extended hill climbing, which will expand and heat up the fluid, somewhat more than regular "hot ATF". Trust me, normal temp of the ATF is HHOOOTTTT, I sometimes wonder how those A4LD's stay together.
That is why a drain plug is so convenient on the pan. Even if not doing a full service, you can drain the fluid, and your transmission will last thousands of miles, with ATF, not burnt, overheated, and having it's fresh additive package. Pat yourself then, on the back, for a job well done! Ed
That is why a drain plug is so convenient on the pan. Even if not doing a full service, you can drain the fluid, and your transmission will last thousands of miles, with ATF, not burnt, overheated, and having it's fresh additive package. Pat yourself then, on the back, for a job well done! Ed
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
I've seen recommendations of using a synthetic ATF. Is Mobil 1 synth ATF advisable? The bottle says it's good for Dexron/Mercon/Mercon V applications. But I also read that Mercon V is not recommended for the A4LD.
Last edited by xlt4wd90; Jun 15, 2006 at 03:01 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
ATF only rated Mercon V is not good for the frictions in older prior approx '97 Ford auto tranny's.
Mobil 1 ATF is a universal rated product that is rated for all Ford applications and is designed to work with both types of friction material.
no need for the spendy synthetic unless hauling hvy loads often, towing in excess of 1000 lbs or in high head winds or continuous operation in temps year around above 80d F or if one wants to run extended full changes in excess of 50k miles....
i tow in hot climates in summer and go extended full drains so i run Mobil 1 ATF in tranny and transfer case
Mobil 1 ATF is a universal rated product that is rated for all Ford applications and is designed to work with both types of friction material.
no need for the spendy synthetic unless hauling hvy loads often, towing in excess of 1000 lbs or in high head winds or continuous operation in temps year around above 80d F or if one wants to run extended full changes in excess of 50k miles....
i tow in hot climates in summer and go extended full drains so i run Mobil 1 ATF in tranny and transfer case
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: brooksville, florida
Hi guys, would you need to do a complete tranny flush when changing from regular ATF to synthetic ATF, ie will it mix ok with what is left in t/c and all the nooks and crannys of the tranny case.?????
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
So Mobil 1 ATF it is...it seems to be the least costly of the real synthetic oils.
I've read that an aftermarket transmission cooler will help the transmission work better and live longer. What do the experienced people think of this:
http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page15.html
I was thinking that the 18" frame rail version should mount in place of the stock cooler, but with some home-made brackets to put it into the bumper slots. On the other hand, it looks just like a longer version of the stock cooler.
I've read that an aftermarket transmission cooler will help the transmission work better and live longer. What do the experienced people think of this:
http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page15.html
I was thinking that the 18" frame rail version should mount in place of the stock cooler, but with some home-made brackets to put it into the bumper slots. On the other hand, it looks just like a longer version of the stock cooler.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
use a plate and fin type cooler mounted in front of radiator/ac condensor....far more efficient cooling and easier to mount than frame rail cooler...mount up high in main air flow from main grille air vents....not much air flow down where Ferd mounts that stupid small aux. tranny cooler
bypass stock in radiator tank cooler, will leak coolant into tranny and ruin
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...e=derale-plate
Derale kits come with all fitting and mounting parts.
i also use an inline filter...replace inline filter every 20k...filters out all the old burned clutch pack and band face material that flakes off...fluid stays clean and fresh
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...ct_Code=M010CB
bypass stock in radiator tank cooler, will leak coolant into tranny and ruin
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...e=derale-plate
Derale kits come with all fitting and mounting parts.
i also use an inline filter...replace inline filter every 20k...filters out all the old burned clutch pack and band face material that flakes off...fluid stays clean and fresh
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...ct_Code=M010CB
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
no problemo as long as fan clutch and belt are working 100%
a frame mounted oil cooler is almost worthless on hill pulls and in town driving at slow speeds unless you mount a fan on it as is done in racing apps.
a frame mounted oil cooler is almost worthless on hill pulls and in town driving at slow speeds unless you mount a fan on it as is done in racing apps.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
Thanks 96.
I'm wondering if putting more heat up in front of the other coolers would make them less effective.
I'm wondering if putting more heat up in front of the other coolers would make them less effective.
Put the cooler in front of the condenser as suggested. Very little adverse effect to condenser of radiator. Also, the stock cooler, if flushed thoroughly, would work well as a cooler for your power steering pump, just so you don't have to throw it away.
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