Going to get cleaner in the AM. The EEC connector is the one your talking about up by the top of the fender in the lil housing with the fuel pump and Tow plugs? Or are you talking about down on the firewall going to the Computer?

 

Well, after being down for almost 8 weeks, my truck is back healthy again. I replaced the ecm and after a few minutes of it learning the truck she ran like a sewing machine.

 

How much did you pay for yours?
I went out just this evening and messed with it again. I drove up to the store to get gas as it was past empty. Well I drove the thing around for over 45 minutes and it was fine! I was doing some stop and go and idling and about 3 WOT's and it was still purring along beautiful. Then I drove it to the Post office and saw the Check light blink on then off. Came home and it's still fine.

I think it prolly is the ECM and has a heat problem, I'm going to drive it in the morning to work and back home in the traffic to see if it'll act up. I'll price some ECM's locally here also.

GLAD you got your's running again, it makes one feel good to get something troublesome fixed! Plus nothing drives like your own vehicle you've come to know and love.

 

fordfuelinjection.com helped me alot. I checked out my ECM, and all my sensors. Finally narrowed it down to the ECM. It cost me $100. At advance auto. They are very type specific, but when you get it out, the number on it will be all you need.

 

Has anyone had any experience with Used parts? Electronics wise at least.

 

Sorry I didnt get a chance to respond sooner, but I also change my ECM(50.00) online at rockauto.com+core. My problem was corrosion ECM was rusted out. Water, prolly salt got into where the pin and ECM connects. Towing the boat in and out salt water. Anyways got my ICM tested at NAPA, they said it was still working and no shorts. $50 ECM vs $100 ICM. As far as used parts you need to find the ECM that matches yours or $50. One more thing about that TPS sensor mine did not work when pulled, maybe you pulled the IAC sensor? If find more stuff Iwill let you know Tony.

 

So far I have had very good luck with EEC’s from salvage yards. I have a spare for my all of my trucks, I plugged them into each truck and tested all four of them, read the codes and now they are on the shelf in case I need them. I paid from $10 to $30 for each of them.

But the EEC is not going to work and then not unless the Capacitors are going bad.

What it sounds like to me is that you have ground problems.
First I would look at the NEG (-) battery post and see if there is a small black wire with a green or white stripe leaving the post connector.
Note that you may have a small black wire leaving the post and going to a body ground and a black wire with the white stripe leaving from there to the EEC.
Make sure this wire has a good ground, if not it can cause all of this.
This is your main EEC Ground.

If it is good run a wire from the Neg (-) post of the battery to a good ground spot on the body and see if that helps.

The clicking may be the EEC Power relay or the Fuel Pump Relay. Make sure the EEC Power relay is making when you turn on the key and giving a good 12 Volts to the EEC.

If all of the above is good then I would say that your Capacitors inside the EEC are going bad, you can either replace the Capacitors or the EEC.

If you want to replace them I can give you a Web page link on replacing them.

 

Well hopefully the Advance in your area is umm better trained than at mine. It took me 6 times quoting the numbers before the "tech" on the phone there actually got what I was telling him. Then after another 15 minutes of searching he said to bring it in and he'd try and match it from there.
I called my wifes cousin who works at another smal parts store and started quoting nubers and he filled in the middle grouping before I told them all to him, then asked what the last 3 numbers were in the last group. He knows his stuff I guess

I hadn't read any of this nor gotten the computer out till after 5 so I thought he'd be closed, he wasn't and said he'd order it today (7-11) as it was after hours. I'll go out and check that ground and see how it looks right now. I also looked at the pins on the ECU and noticed that I had some corrosion on them. I've just now cleaned them up and will try all ya'll suggested before I go purchase a new one.

 

I looked for weeks for a used ECM, for mine. But, couldnt ever find the correct one. I also looked at rockauto, but decided that the core hassle, and the fact advance is here in town so I have an actual person to talk face to face about it(Granted it may be a stupid person) should there be a problem(Also, I had found the part online before I went in, and had their part number in my hand to match up with what the clerk found).

My ICM went bad a few months ago, and I replaced it. But I had it tested at autozone(I had them test it about 15 times, to make sure it was hot). I agree with the bad ground theory. Grounds kill electronics, like I found out, I had one that was @12ohms, where they need to be <5ohms.

 

I never had any problem at the salvage yard, For an example just found a truck the same year (95), engine size (5.0) and the same transmission (4R70W). Pulled out the PCM, check the code (HUG2) on it to see if it was the same, took it home and test it.
What else can I say?
By the way I could have used one out a 94 also as they had the HUG2 in 94.
Of course you can not go by the Ford part number at the salvage yard, just the Program Code so you know that you are running on the same program.

 

Cleaned up all grounds and it's still bad, so I called my parts guy. He looked it up and couldn't find one in the Macon warehouse nor Atlanta (we're in Macon GA). He said he'd continue to look for me.
In the meantime I called around to all the local Salvage yards and none had one. :sad: So I guess I'll await for the return call to get the new one.

SubFord thanks, I think I'll break out the ohmeter and start checking them Caps.

 

You know that they are Electrolytic Capacitors and they can heal and be good and then break down again.

Here is the URL on changing them.

http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm

 

Well Sub I did indeed find that the 2 of the caps were bad, they were actually so bad they had dissolved one of the leads on each cap! A quick trip to the local electronics store and $4 later I was putting them back on.
I put it all back on the truck a few minutes ago, started her up, stayed outside for a few, then came in to tell the missus I was going to go round the block and it died.
I went back out and it's STILL doing the same thing. I guess the whole ECU is bad and needs replacing.

Now waiting on parts guy I guess. Anyone have any other suggestions?

THANKS all in advance and for the continuing help.

 

Sounds like the caps may have ate a trace or two, it was worth a try, it has worked for a few. There is not really much else that can go wrong in there unless it had a spike from a loose battery cable.

By the way what is your Program Code?
A "91 f150 5.8 E4OD" F150 or E150 should be very common PCM to find.
You do not have to match the Ford Number just the Program Code.

 

Was Electrolytic Capacitors that you replaced the same value and voltage that you took out?

Note do not use the values in the link as they are for a different computer.