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OK, I have a 2001 4x4 Crew Cab 7.3 Powerstroke with 104k miles, 4" exhaust, superchip tuner, and injector pressure modifications. I bought the truck at 68k miles. I assume it still has the original clutch in it. I just did all of the upgrades & modifications after I passed 100k miles. Now, in 3rd, 4th & 5th gears, if I get in it, my clutch "spins". I tow with this and it is a daily driver, so I don't want to lose that aspect of driveability. Any suggestions on what kind of clutch I should go with? I want to upgrade to something stronger than the factory clutch. Also, I have been getting a LOT of conflicting answers, does the 2001 have a dual mass flywheel or is it a solid flywheel. Thanks in advance for any advice/wisdom!
David
Your truck has a solid flywheel currently. If you decide to upgrade the clutch to a Luk or a HD Luk you will still need to replace the flywheel. Give me a call tommorrow and I can explain some of your options with pros and cons.
I was told by a LUK dealer that the standard LUK upgrade wasn't worth doing because it would handle basically the same power as a stocker, and to either go with a stocker, or a big, bad-boy clutch.
Evidently that particular dealer hasn't ever owned one of his own clutches. I know for a fact that it will hold at least 1.5 times the factory rated RWHP for at least 57,000 miles.........so far.
Call Larry here http://www.discountpowerparts.com/. Ask him about a South Bend Clutch. I used the CON OFE single disc untill I started sled pulling. Now I use their twin disc.
99-03 Power Stroke - MU 1944 6sp - Stock Power
99-03 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con O 6 sp - 350 hp, 750 ft lbs of torque
99-03 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con OFE 6 sp - 450 hp, 900 ft lbs of torque
99-03 Power Stroke - MU 1944 Con FE 6 sp - 550 hp, 1100 ft lbs of torque
Scott you wouldn't believe it was a twin unless I told ya. Pedal pressure is like an old mechanical clutch and you can slip it like a stocker. I will buy nothing but a South Bend.
I had heard the south bend clutches were pretty harsh in a daily driver and not good for normal everyday towing/farm use. I appreciate all of this information. Anybody used a Spec? How cheap is the "relatively" cheap Luk clutch?
Last edited by GA Strokin; Jun 13, 2006 at 08:17 PM.
I ran the CON OFE with no problems. Yes the CON FE is full ceramic and grabby. There a cheaper clutches out there, as they say you get what you pay for.
I paid a bit less than $600 including shipping. The base Repset inludes the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, and flywheel with pilot bearing.
It's pretty much the only clutch you can get that can handle low 300 horsepower engines without costing $1000. Pedal effort with the base Luk is substantially less than stock. It is a very good entry level performance clutch in my opinion.