352 oil pressure issues
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352 oil pressure issues
What do I do now??? My 352's oil pressure is scary low at idle. At start up, i'll run about 20psi at idle, and it'll drop to almost zero after it warms up a bit. I'm getting a ticking noise towards the backside of the engine. I recently put a new high volume oil pump on it in an attempt to better it all, but it seems to have no improvements. There is an oil leak at my timing cover... but no other leaks. Please help!!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,360
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From: Iowa
My old 390 would run 30psi cold, and 20psi on the highway hot, dropping to zero when I came to a stop. I replaced the oil pump with a new stock pump, and I installed new rod and main bearings. Now it runs 45 psi cold, 35psi hot on the highway, and it idles at ten psi hot.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
My 352 had a similar problem. I replaced the pump and the rod bearings, and it improved, but was still poor.
I determined the mains needed replacing (the crank was OK), but I didn't have the money.
20K miles later I threw a rod.
FEs are beefy, but they need oil pressure.
I determined the mains needed replacing (the crank was OK), but I didn't have the money.
20K miles later I threw a rod.
FEs are beefy, but they need oil pressure.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2003
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I recently replaced the oil pump in the 360 in my '72 with a high volume pump. The engine has 59,000 original miles but the stock pump body is aluminum and is more prone to wear and tolerance increase compared to the iron body of the new melling pump.
I went from about 20lbs. at idle to 35 lbs.
I also replaced the old rope type rear main seal with a new 2 piece rubber seal.
I went from about 20lbs. at idle to 35 lbs.
I also replaced the old rope type rear main seal with a new 2 piece rubber seal.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
I had a 69 360 with a aluminum pump body that came from Ford as this engine was original. At around 270K the pressure release plunger stuck in bypass as the aluminum plunger bore was worn. A 70 390 motor from a neighbor's truck also had a aluminum pump body, again factory original.
Most FE's now have been rebuilt before and have iron Mellings pumps installed.
.....=o&o>.....
Most FE's now have been rebuilt before and have iron Mellings pumps installed.
.....=o&o>.....
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Iowa
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Originally Posted by instig8r63
I recently replaced the oil pump in the 360 in my '72 with a high volume pump. The engine has 59,000 original miles but the stock pump body is aluminum and is more prone to wear and tolerance increase compared to the iron body of the new melling pump.
I went from about 20lbs. at idle to 35 lbs.
I also replaced the old rope type rear main seal with a new 2 piece rubber seal.
I went from about 20lbs. at idle to 35 lbs.
I also replaced the old rope type rear main seal with a new 2 piece rubber seal.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
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From: Union, Washington
Ford does not spec oil pressure at idle. Only hot at 2000 rpm and it is not supose to be less than 35 psi. You don't mention what oil and weight you are using. If you are running multi weight oil go to straight 30 or even 40 wt.
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i'm running 10w-30...i'll swap to straight 40..and see what that does... and I replaced the timing gasket and seal this afternoon (actually, just finished)... no improvements in pressure... but no leaks as of now..so killed one bird.
After putting some thought to what else may be causing my 'ticking' noise...i thought back to when I replaced my intake gasket. At that time, I removed my rocker arm assembly... what are the odds that I warped the assembly when I put it back on?
I ask this question after diving in a bit deeper today.. I went ahead and pulled it off again...pulled each pushrod individually, inspected, cleaned and relubed it all again. After reassembly..it seems my 'ticking' is worse. I can't offhand, remember the timeframe between the first removal, and my first signs of ticking... but is it possible it's not seated properly anymore..therefore leaving too much play with the pushrods??
Just an idea...
After putting some thought to what else may be causing my 'ticking' noise...i thought back to when I replaced my intake gasket. At that time, I removed my rocker arm assembly... what are the odds that I warped the assembly when I put it back on?
I ask this question after diving in a bit deeper today.. I went ahead and pulled it off again...pulled each pushrod individually, inspected, cleaned and relubed it all again. After reassembly..it seems my 'ticking' is worse. I can't offhand, remember the timeframe between the first removal, and my first signs of ticking... but is it possible it's not seated properly anymore..therefore leaving too much play with the pushrods??
Just an idea...
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
Get the motor hot then lower the idle to prevent a oil bath splash. Remove both valve covers, with motor idling place a .008" feeler gauge under each rocker at the valve tip. The offending lifter will get quieter. Lifter might be bleeding down because dirt or crap in the check valve or you have different length push rods and you mixed 'em up. Replace that one rod with a longer one if the lifter check valve is working. I sure hope that one lifter and cam lobe aren't chewed up.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
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well, i've only put 125 actual road miles on the truck since I got it 11months ago..so i'm hoping any possible damage i've caused is minimal. It started tapping on the way home one day...maybe 30 miles from home... Other than that..it's only been run in the driveway..for short periods of time (5minute intervals) I'll try using the feeler guage... If it does in fact quiet it down... how do I know what size pushrod to get??
All your help is sincerely appreciated.
All your help is sincerely appreciated.
Last edited by jgallanttx; Jun 12, 2006 at 08:32 PM.