a/c charge failure, why?
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From: florida
a/c charge failure, why?
So I changed my leaky A/C hoses, drier, pulled a vacuum, put in about 4 oz of oil, and 60 oz of r-134a. The system calls for 4 lb of r-12, so was that the correct amount? I drove around a while, and it was cooling pretty well. The vent temps were at least 68, outside was 92. I only drove for a short distance. When I got home, I cleaned everything up, and heard an explosion. One of the new lines had blown off the drier. I know I had put it in and it clicked. Now, I cannot get it to stay on. It looks like it bent the metal pipe on the drier. It was the low side line.
You don't have to use the spring clamp tools to install hte hoses do you? None of the other lines came off. Did I over charge it? I have the rear air unit. I am so fed up with it now, I think I will take it in to get fixed. It is too hot to not have air.
I am so mad right now...
You don't have to use the spring clamp tools to install hte hoses do you? None of the other lines came off. Did I over charge it? I have the rear air unit. I am so fed up with it now, I think I will take it in to get fixed. It is too hot to not have air.
I am so mad right now...
Posting Guru
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From: Niceville, FL.
Usually recommended charge is .85 X R12 weight. .85 X 4 Lb = 3.4 LB. Maybe less if your system doesn't have a High Pressure Cut Out Switch (HPCO). I'm supprised that the low side, rather than the high side, came loose. No tool normally needed to install, but I once had a problem reusing the springs. When you converted to R134A did you use a new orfice tube for R134A (red/white I think)? With everything charged and working properly after about 10 to 15 minutes of driving you should get 34 to 48 deg. F. air at vent closest to evaporator (in Max).
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Southern California
Actually a proper charge is anywhere between 0.70 to 0.90 the weight of R12, so 85% is about right.
Piffery1 is right. You need to use new springs, the proper cutoff switch and the correct orifice tube. Look up the orifice tube for a later model car (96 and up) and just purchase that one. Also, the front AC and rear AC require different orifice tubes, so make sure you use the right one.
Also, for a proper and long lasting retrofit you need to do all these things:
1) Dump out the old R-12 oil in the compressor, flush out the condenser & the evaporator.
2) Replace the accumulator/dryer. It should already have the correct cutoff switch if you buy it for a later model that requires R134a.
Piffery1 is right. You need to use new springs, the proper cutoff switch and the correct orifice tube. Look up the orifice tube for a later model car (96 and up) and just purchase that one. Also, the front AC and rear AC require different orifice tubes, so make sure you use the right one.
Also, for a proper and long lasting retrofit you need to do all these things:
1) Dump out the old R-12 oil in the compressor, flush out the condenser & the evaporator.
2) Replace the accumulator/dryer. It should already have the correct cutoff switch if you buy it for a later model that requires R134a.
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Junior User
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From: florida
a/c update
I talked to my dad about it tonight. Turns out, the new hoses come with a white clip to hold the spring open. When installing it, I popped off the white clip before it was all the way on. Therefore, the spring clamp was never attached properly. He told me I have to use the special tool to install them if that white clip did not work.
So 5 stinking cans of refrigerant lost at 8 bucks a piece! The van had already been converted to 134. Since Ill have to replace the drier again, ill do the orifice tube. Don't know if it has been changed at all.
I am not looking forward to having to do this again. Oh well, its cheaper to do it myself, even with this setback.
So 5 stinking cans of refrigerant lost at 8 bucks a piece! The van had already been converted to 134. Since Ill have to replace the drier again, ill do the orifice tube. Don't know if it has been changed at all.
I am not looking forward to having to do this again. Oh well, its cheaper to do it myself, even with this setback.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
Here is a link to the J. C. Whitney HPCO kit: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=High+pres sure+cut+out+switch&searchbtn.x=13&searchbtn.y=16 I've used them in all my R134A conversions. They cut out at 398 psi and cut back in at 315 thus saving compressors and condensers from damaging overpressure due to overcharge and really hot weather and you don't lose refrigerant from safety blow off vents.
Well the link doesn't seem to work so go to the catalog and search "High Pressure Cut Out Switch".
Well the link doesn't seem to work so go to the catalog and search "High Pressure Cut Out Switch".
Last edited by Piffery1; Jun 10, 2006 at 10:48 PM. Reason: link
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Junior User
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From: florida
fixed
So I worked on the van again today. I used a mirror to check that clamp again. I pressed as hard as I could to get it on, and finally I heard it click. I then pulled hard, and twisted and tried to get it to come off, and it didn't. So I charged it back up and it did not blow off again. I got vent temps of 50, when it was 80 out, in about 10 minutes of driving.
Hopefully it is going to stay working.
Hopefully it is going to stay working.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: florida
Oh yea! Now the compressor is leaking oil. It was a little noisy so I should have expected it. Sheesh, $45 a pop to charge adds up! Can't wait to find out how much a compressor is.
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I just bought a new FS10 compressor from a company I found online on eBay. Since they were here in the Houston area I went and picked it up, thus saving the shipping. He has them online on ebay at 168.99 with 20.00 for shipping. If you are interested, the eBay ID is american$value . Just do a search for "Items by seller" and insert the ID. He has a ton of stuff on there.
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