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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 05:31 AM
  #1  
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overheating

Yesterday I tried to go from Wenatchee to Ellensburg via Colockum road (pavement, dirt, gravel, broken rock, rip-rap) and pass (5373ft) and probably I didn't even get halfway up there when my coolant temperature gauge was about to move into the red area. I was kinda hesitant, but since I didn't have extra coolant with me (and did boil over around Sherman pass when I stopped the engine) I decided to turn tail, and take a less challenging route (Hwy 2 & 97)

What are the usual causes of overheating in Broncos under low speed climbing? How can I verify that my fan clutch works properly?

Truck is '95 with 351W and E4OD, has ~188k. I always used distilled water to dilute coolant, but I only had it since ~120k. Shroud is there and it is not damaged. On freways, ny gauge usually varies between 'O' and 'A'.

Would a double electric fan be better than the OEM?

TIA

PS: Bonus question: did anyone traverse Colockum road?
 

Last edited by Torque1st; Jun 10, 2006 at 06:14 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 06:24 AM
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Check your radiator cap pressure. Check fuel pressure and delivery. Low engine efficiency due to ignition, timing, fuel, etc, problems can contribute to overheating. You may need one of those "orange" carbs...

Low vehicle speed overheating is usually fan related caused by insufficient airflow. Is there any silicone grease on the front of the fan clutch? If there is replace it.

An auxiliary electric fan can be a plus but the OEM system in proper working order should be good.

Stick a thermometer in the coolant to check your gage. It will read 5-10°F cooler than the outlet temp in the top of the radiator.

"Colockum" -is that what they are talking about shortening in GA???
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 06:34 AM
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You can check my thred on 5/27/06 for the troubles I've had with electric fans. They do keep the truck cool, when they work. I'm still having problems. But, I will say the company (Flexilite) is trying to help. They said they will replace the whole thing once I check the amp draw on the fans. Just finding time.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Thumbs up

I think I remember hearing about your toubles with the Flex-a-lite fans, but like someone pointed out, adding a relay between the fans and the control unit will allow the CU to only have to provide a low current voltage to trigger the relay and directly connect the fans to the battery when cued. That would eliminate the weak components problem on the CU and only cost a few bucks.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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I checked into that, but flexilite told me the problem with that is it would defeat the abillity of the unit to turn the fans on at low speed. This feature helps save your altenator running at full bore to keep up. Which also saves on gas.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 06:14 PM
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With 188k miles, i would make sure to give the radiator a good flush. This is one of those things that can easily get forgotten over the years, and WILL cause slow coolant movement. Give it a good flush!
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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From: Lynnwood, WA
Originally Posted by Torque1st
Check your radiator cap pressure.
It's the correct rating and about 2 years old.

Check fuel pressure and delivery. Low engine efficiency due to ignition, timing, fuel, etc, problems can contribute to overheating. You may need one of those "orange" carbs...
Well, from Seattle to Ellensburg on I-90 on the very first lef og the trip I got about 17 mpg at my freeway speed (~65), so at least in that condition, there shouldn't be anything significantly wrong with efficiency. Of course, I had to use a lot more throttle when climbing while my speed was a lot slower, and the efficiency of the engine may have dropped.

I can't use a carb, but maybe some purple fuel injectors with platinum or palladium inserts....

Low vehicle speed overheating is usually fan related caused by insufficient airflow. Is there any silicone grease on the front of the fan clutch? If there is replace it.
Clutch looks clean and OK to me, but of course that doesn't mean much with respect to how well it works. I'll be getting another one, anyhow. Is there a brand that people prefer over others?

Stick a thermometer in the coolant to check your gage. It will read 5-10°F cooler than the outlet temp in the top of the radiator.
I'll be getting one soon.

"Colockum" -is that what they are talking about shortening in GA???
No. Here's a link: http://students.washington.edu/comstm/2005/10/cascade-gravel-travel-3.html
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 10:20 PM
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The road sounds like good fun, out here in the flat lands we don't have anything like that.

At 17MPG the engine sounds good. For cooling you need two heat transfers, engine to coolant and coolant to air. Since the fan clutch has not leaked the next best thing may be a cooling system flush.

The thermometer may help you trace the problem. Instrumentation always helps.

Platinum radiator inserts may be needed to catalyze the bad juju in the coolant.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 10:29 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by XOXO
With 188k miles, i would make sure to give the radiator a good flush. This is one of those things that can easily get forgotten over the years, and WILL cause slow coolant movement. Give it a good flush!
I flushed it about 4 - 5 years ago -- put in a can of Prestone flush in, drove to work and back (9 + 9 miles) and then flushed everything out with water. I did never put in anything but coolant and distilled water.

However, I might take out the radiator and put in some weak acid like acetic acid -- that should dissolve scale and some other deposits, or at least most of them.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 10:53 AM
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your tstat might be sticking closed as well.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 03:35 PM
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I think that's not very likely.

Waterpump and thermostat were replaced about 2 years ago, and since this overheat only happens at low speed/high power, insufficient airflow through the radiator is a more likely explanation.
 
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