The radiator support bolts were rusted so badly on my 48 that I threw them out. I think there might have been a spring of some type on the bolt which I guess would have allowed the radiator support to give some but it was so rusted and in pieces that I could not tell what it was. I was thinking about just bolting the support down tight without a spring. Has anyone else done that? Would it cause any problem? If I really need the springs, what size and length bolts and springs do I need. What did you use?

Vern

 

Vern, I am going to assume that you are referring to the radiator support frame to front crossmember connection. The original (I believe) setup on my 49 F-1 is as follows:

2 large head 3/8" diameter carriage bolts about 4 inches long that go thru the U shaped radiator support and then thru the two holes in the front crossmember. The bottom of the U has 2 square holes for the square of the carraige bolt to fit into. A stiff spring is inserted up on the bolt shank under the crossmember followed by a large flatwasher and a fine nut. The takeup on the springs provide a strong but flexible mounting. If you do not have springs, a short approximate 1 1/2 inch long valve spring or a longer carriage bolt to use a longer valve spring will work. The spring looks like it may be the same part as the front motor mount spring on a Model A. Been too long to be sure of that. Sold my last model A 25 years ago!

 

The spring set-up is absolutely essential!! The bodywork would twist with the frame if you don't, and there are enough problems with the bodywork being anchored at one end, flexibly mounted at the other (i.e., the inner fender situation on 48-51). I may have a spare set-up, I'll check.

 

The bolts are 7/16 instead of 3/8. The 7/16 bolt will fit the entire square on the crossmember.

 

Vern:
Can't really add much to what the other guys have already said. Mine was 7/16's. I misplaced my springs and Barry was kind enough to assist in replacement.

I have seen a "kit" sold on ebay but not in some time.

I thought about a valve spring but it seems to me the ID of the spring might be too big. The compression of the valve spring may be about right though.

Definately would use them though. Things up there need to float around a little!

Tim

 

Vern, The guys are right on. It is 7/16 fine. I looked too quick.

 

If you do have a spare let me know. I checked with the local hardware store and they have no 7/16 carriage bolts long enough and I didn't see any springs that looked as stiff as a valve spring. I could probably use a hex head bolt I suppose. I found a SS radiator mounting kit by Vintique but it's for a 28-48 car and has smaller diameter and shorter bolts so it won't work for a truck.

Vern

 

Sorry, Vern, I checked and I don't have a spare. Here are the specs on the spings I've got installed:

compressed length = 1.25"
coil diameter = 1"
wire diameter = about 1/8"
7 coils (it's closed ends)

It looks a lot like the valve springs on my flathead ('51, which was different than other flatties). I think if you can find valve springs from a 4-banger modern car, and crank them down so it puts maybe 50-75 lbs force on each bolt, you'll be good to go. It ain't going anywhere! I've also heard of people welding the head of a regular hex bolt to the saddle, but it somewhat complicates pulling the saddle (how often do you do that??)

Interesting "useless trivia" I discovered while looking at my spare set-up; the '51 radiator saddle has a bracket with a hole for the hand-crank; my '52's doesn't.

 

Thanks for checking anyway...and for the specs on the springs. I'll figure out something to use.

Vern

 

Something also that I didn't see mentioned, the threaded end of the bolt should have a small hole drilled through it to accept a cotter pin. Mine has that with a castle nut on it and I have no reason to believe it isn't stock. Even if not stock it's a good idea so you don't lose your spring and nut if they work loose.

Scott

 

My truck had no core support bolts when I got it. I bought two bolts, and bolted it up tight. It has been this way for almost three years now. I had no idea that there were springs there until here recently. I haven't got in any big hurry to find some springs and put them in.

hotrod48

 

Scott,

Good point, although I was thinking about using a self-tightening nut. You would definitely need something on the end of the bolt to keep the nut from falling off if it works loose since you can't tighten it down.

Vern

 

One thing no one mentioned - there is also a rubber pad that goes between the radiator support and the crossmsmber. I have the original bolts and springs (or broken remnants of, but I beleive one of the springs was in tact) from my '52, I can check diameter, length etc when I get home.

 

52,

I would appreciate that. It might save me some time finding the right length bolt and spring.

Vern

 

Vern, as I indicated in my previoue post, the shank length of my bolts were 4 inches and the uncompressed length of the spring was 1 1/2 inches.