Duraspark II ?
#1
Duraspark II ?
Hi I have a 77 F100 with a 300 six. I have read some about upgradeing the ignition but am confused a little about it. I have added a couple of links for pics of the set up on my truck. The control module has the Blue grommet on it, this is suppose to be the Duraspark II right. The distributor has the large snap on cap. The coil is just a round can type. Is this all original Duraspark II equipment?
The upgrades I have been reading about use a tfi type coil. Is it possible to use this tfi coil with my current distributor and ignition module?
I haven't experienced any problems with my current setup but read that the TFI coil puts out more usable spark energy. I figure the hotter the spark the better the combustion process is. If this is a possible swap would I need a platnum plug and different gap for the plug?
Would this setup be the next step before using a MSD ignition?
The upgrades I have been reading about use a tfi type coil. Is it possible to use this tfi coil with my current distributor and ignition module?
I haven't experienced any problems with my current setup but read that the TFI coil puts out more usable spark energy. I figure the hotter the spark the better the combustion process is. If this is a possible swap would I need a platnum plug and different gap for the plug?
Would this setup be the next step before using a MSD ignition?
#2
Yes, you have all the stock duraspark II setup.
I personally would not change the coil. You do not get something for nothing. More spark energy means more current through the different coil. More current through the different coil means more current through the duraspark II module. Can the module take it? Probably. Will it shorten it's life? Possible.
The system you have, in good working order, will give plenty of spark for a stock engine. If you have a modified engine and you are going racing, then that may be a reason to change the ignition system.
I personally would not change the coil. You do not get something for nothing. More spark energy means more current through the different coil. More current through the different coil means more current through the duraspark II module. Can the module take it? Probably. Will it shorten it's life? Possible.
The system you have, in good working order, will give plenty of spark for a stock engine. If you have a modified engine and you are going racing, then that may be a reason to change the ignition system.
#3
I must have missed something along the way, what I have read is how to up grade from a TFI to a Duraspark II. I have heard that the Duraspark II was much more desirable with mid 80s Ranger and BII guys.
There was a lot of problems with the TFI in the mid 80s and they had some recalls on it.
I have been thinking about switching my 85 Range from TFI to Duraspark II.
There was a lot of problems with the TFI in the mid 80s and they had some recalls on it.
I have been thinking about switching my 85 Range from TFI to Duraspark II.
#5
One thing you can do for your DS-II system is to mount the ignition module with 1/4" high standoffs to allow air to cool the underside of the module. This tip came from a Ford TSB some time ago.
The best DS-II modules are the OEM stock Motorcraft modules. The aftermarket modules that were reverse engineered from the originals seem to have missed some important design details and fail easily and often. The Motorcraft modules are more expensive tho. The good news is that perfectly good Motorcraft modules can be found in salvage yards. Don't pay more than a few bucks for them tho since they need to be tested. The good news about testing is that most parts stores have nice computerized testing machines that have been 100% accurate in my experience.
The best DS-II modules are the OEM stock Motorcraft modules. The aftermarket modules that were reverse engineered from the originals seem to have missed some important design details and fail easily and often. The Motorcraft modules are more expensive tho. The good news is that perfectly good Motorcraft modules can be found in salvage yards. Don't pay more than a few bucks for them tho since they need to be tested. The good news about testing is that most parts stores have nice computerized testing machines that have been 100% accurate in my experience.
#6
Yes the one that is on my truck right now is a Motorcraft model. It doesn't have any type of extra spacer to allow extra air flow though. Is it okay to just use like fender washers for spacers or does it need to be a rubber type material or does it matter what it is made of?
I also have a spare that I took off a parts truck but it is a Standard brand. Is this the re - engineered ones you spoke of for aftermarket. Can you still get a new Motorcraft brand that is the same as the original. Are all the duraspark II (blue gromet) control modules the same. By this I mean do they work on all types of engines (straight six and V-8).
Thanks for all the advice, I look for things on ebay from time to time and have seen them on there. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have another back up though.
I also have a spare that I took off a parts truck but it is a Standard brand. Is this the re - engineered ones you spoke of for aftermarket. Can you still get a new Motorcraft brand that is the same as the original. Are all the duraspark II (blue gromet) control modules the same. By this I mean do they work on all types of engines (straight six and V-8).
Thanks for all the advice, I look for things on ebay from time to time and have seen them on there. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have another back up though.
#7
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#8
Correct, the blue grommet are all the same and work on 4-8 cyl motors.
Have your Standard brand unit tested. I buy my Motorcraft spares in junkyards for a couple $$ and have them tested. So far they have all been good. The Standard brand seem to be OK and have lasted as long as a year in my trucks.
I use 5/16" hex nuts for spacers... I run a bolt down from the top thru the module and tighten it, slip on spacers and drop it on the fender. Then I use 1/4-20 Nylock nuts under the fender. Makes for an easy installation.
Note- The ignition module gets it's ground thru the black wire to the distributor housing. If the unit in service in the truck fails just plug in the spare unit and ty-wrap it to something or wedge it in somewhere until you get home.
Have your Standard brand unit tested. I buy my Motorcraft spares in junkyards for a couple $$ and have them tested. So far they have all been good. The Standard brand seem to be OK and have lasted as long as a year in my trucks.
I use 5/16" hex nuts for spacers... I run a bolt down from the top thru the module and tighten it, slip on spacers and drop it on the fender. Then I use 1/4-20 Nylock nuts under the fender. Makes for an easy installation.
Note- The ignition module gets it's ground thru the black wire to the distributor housing. If the unit in service in the truck fails just plug in the spare unit and ty-wrap it to something or wedge it in somewhere until you get home.
Last edited by Torque1st; 06-09-2006 at 09:30 AM.
#9
Thanks for the extra info. I'll add some spacers to the one on my truck. The Standard module I was going to use for a back up in case I had problems. I know it works, the motor was running before I took it out of the parts truck. I will keep a eye out for a extra motorcraft module though.
#11
[B]I have up graded several old points type cars with the Dura Spark II Ign. system. As far as I am concerned the DS II is the best Ford made. I have a tech page on my website showing how to install the DS II system on an older car. I have a 64 Sprint that I installed it on. I have been thinking of installing it on my 56 F-100, but so far I am still running the duel point distributor that came in the 71 Boss 351 Cleveland that now resides in it. BTW the website is www.michellesfords.com go to the bottom of the page and click on the Falcon tech [/B]
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