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Hello everyone I have made a new investment BUT!!! I need all the help I can get on this. I have got a 1989 ford f-350 1 ton XL model the guy I bought it from said it had a 7.3 diesel and put a banks on it and blew it up and changed the motor to a 6.9 diesel.NOW what I need to know is does anyone have a complete wiring diagram for my truck with a 7.3 and a wiring diagram for the 6.9. Next is has anyone ever done this swap and what is different for wiring it up and what wires do I not need use as this thing runs great but is a mess under the hood and under the dash as this truck was wired for more lights than a x-mas tree.All I want to do is make a nice clean job of the wiring and remove what ever is not needed including any origanal wiring that is not being used on this 6.9 .
and last but not least is there any sensors that are different on the 6.9 as some of the gauges do not work remeber please he said it was a 7.3.It has air cruise tilt and power doors THANX to all that can help me I think I have a great truck if I can clean it up... P.S. I might just like this truck.
I think almost every guage sensor that can be plugged into a 7.3 can be plugged into a 6.9. The problem may not be the wiring. Which gauges don't work?
The fuel and temp guage work but the other 2 above dont work.There are a bunch of wires that are not hooked up under the hood and this is why I was wondering about the wiring. I hate it when people that dont know what there doing when it comes to wiring try to splice and cut wiring and use electrical tape and those stupid scotchman clips.THEY should be hung!I always solder then use shrink tube its clean,nice and done right!I hate it when somthing belongs somwhere and they cant find it so they just throw it aside and make there own and leave it there for us to find and scratch our heads wondering what it is for.There are 2 black wires that look like they belong to the glow plugs at the rear of the block that are not hooked up,2 wires at the front passenger side with 2 round push on type plugs that are not hooked up and 1 wire on the drivers side front that is also a push on but flat that looks like it belonged on the injector pump somewere not hooked up thats just a start I can take picks if it would help.Thanx for the reply I know we get it right yet.
I'm not sure when they switched over to the newer system, but the 6.9 may have the older style glow plug system in it. Is the GP system currently working? Does the truck have a tach? If so, does it work?
Pics probably will help to identify where the stuff should go.
Agree with you on people that butcher wiring, they should just leave it alone if they can't do it right.
OK everyone I got the oil pressure gauge and temp gauge and fuel gauge and the tach working today. I still have no volt gauge yet! There is a red with white stripe wire laying on to of the motor at the rear of the block that I dont know where it went or goes to .The white with red stripe I hooked up to the oil sending unit and it seems to work.There is a light blue fuse link that turns yellow but is cut off behind the battery I think went to the selonoid but not sure.they have apush button to start like the big rigs after you turn on the ignition switch.?????There is 2 round push on wires behind the altenator 1 looks blue and 1 looks dark grey or black.There is a spot on the altenator with a post that looks like 1 of these wires go on it ??????The other is a guess where it goes!The last 1 is a flat push on wire with it looks like it has 2 green wires into 1that is beside the injector pump.ANY IDEAS anyone.I will not give up till I get them figured out.
If the tach does not work check all your fuses first, make sure they are all ok.
The factory tach sending units on the Ford diesels are historically not very reliable and especially the older stop working in due time. The sending unit is a big 1" nut with two wires coming out located on the IP housing near your engine oil filler cap.
A new sending unit is not very expensive to replace and solves any tach problems 90% of the time.
Your can also do a check on the existing sender unit. Screw it out and check it with a Ohmmeter. There should be about 3,000 ohm of resistance between the two wires. (Don't quote me on the exact resistance, could be anywhere from 2,000 to 3,000 ohm I believe)
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