Hey folks! I was talking to my buddy yesterday about my screwed up frame and he said "let's just make one." He's an S-10 guy who custom makes frames out of that square hollow stuff and runs airbag suspensions. The end result is a frame that's much stronger than stock, W-A-Y lighter, and sits literally on the ground with a push of a button. I've been doing some thinking about it and have come up with a list of pros and cons. I would like everyone's input, especially you "old obsulete" guys!
PROS
1) It's lighter and stronger
2) It's cheaper? My research so far says it would cost between $500 and $900 in steel to do this right. I need to do more digging to see how much it would cost to repair my stock frame. Check out my gallery titled "carnage". There's a pic in there that clearly shows how bad my frame is twisted. It's also bowed up over the rear wheels. At one time, this truck has been rear-ended HARD! Anyone who's ever repaired a frame, please gimme your 2 cents!
3) It would be easier to install the '75 Monte Carlo IFS. Wouldn't it? If I'm doing the frame from scratch you'd think it would be easier to build it around this suspension. I'm planning on doing pwr steering, front disc brakes, and a Ford 460. Any input here would be greatly appreciated.
Cons
1) There's been lots of talk lately about stock guys and darksiders, and greysiders. I'm not really concerned about labels. I want a cool truck that looks good and is fun to drive. To me, a truck without IFS and pwr steering is not fun to drive! I do, however want to keep it as Ford as possible. I mean, if I'm going to do a custom frame, I might as well scrap the entire truck and buy everything new...just spend megabucks and go fiberglass with everything. In that case, why did I buy this truck in the first place? It never occurred to me that you could just build a truck with all new parts. I don't want to do that, but it is possible. One of the things that got me interested in old trucks is the history. What's the point of driving something that "looks" like a '60 if all the major parts are circa 2006?
2) Low rider trucks **** me off! There's nothing that annoys me more than seeing a truck that has to slow down for speed bumps! I like the look of a truck that has been lowered enough to fill up the wheel wells, maybe a bit of a rake. I hear with airbags, the ride height is totally adjustable though. Again, input appreciated.

I'm not on much of a time crunch, although I am anticipating having to move in about 2 years when I get out of the Air Force and move back home to Florida to build my dream house. I would like to have 'er driveable by then. I would appreciate anyone's input! Thanks!

 

FWIW, airbag setup can run up to a couple grand, complete w/tanks, solenoids, batteries, bags, lines, etc...But if you do go that route, a coworker has this website:
www.lavishlogos.com he can make custom setups like battery hold downs, brackets, etc...may be different than what your looking for, but there certainly is the cool factor with bags. Just my 2 cents.

 

Thanks for the input havi! I would like to be able to hide all that stuff you mentioned, tanks, etc. A friend of mine has a decent looking truck until you look in the bed. Is there any way to bolt the tanks to the frame?

 

Jack -

I wish I had a buddy who made custom frames. However, a time line of 2 years to build a custom frame, suspension, etc, with all the custom fitting of IFS, brakes, cab, and get to a cross-country driver seems a very short to me. I have friends that run a pro hot rod fab shop and do the kind of work you are talking about. They typically take 18 months to 2 years to do a ground up job like that working full-time. A typical after-market custom chassis made for your truck will start around $8000, which gives you an idea of the work involved. We've got guys on this forum that are still working on the chassis after 5-10 years. If you are certain that the 2 years is a fixed time line, I think you should look in a different direction.

Air ride suspension itself has many pros and cons. To say that it is completely adjustable for height is true, but the ride suffers dramatically everywhere but the sweet spot. The ride height has to be optimized by using the proper bag sizes and the suspension only works well at that height. You can slam it lower, but it will be so soft, it bottoms on everything. Or, you can set it up high, and it will ride hard. To me, air ride is very cool, but just for parking it on the ground. You have to set it up for the ride height you want. They ride very nicely when done well and can be sized for any weight distribution, including that heavy 460 of yours.

I really believe that you would be much better off just getting another (straight) 57-60 frame, boxing it and go from there. The frame should run you in the $100 range. Add your IFS, power stuff, air ride (if you want), etc. You'll be good to go, and it is doable in the 2 year time line.

Of course, the custom chassis thing does give you more bragging rights on cruise night, but if the end result rides as well, why bother?

Just my 2 cents...

 

Thank you Sir! Anyone have a good frame for me?

 

What he said. Myself? I'd never build a car/truck with airbags for 2 reasons. #1) is the cost. I'll put the money elsewhere. #2) is where I live. Here you park the nice stuff during the winter months (6 months) That said, I saw a beautiful '55 F100 last year in St. Ignace. He pulled up and parked and that thing dropped right down onto the running boards. It drew a crowd in a matter of seconds.
Now, about your frame. Have you talked to a shop about straightening your frame and the cost of that work? I think youre being VERY optomistic on your steel cost estimate.

 

It's not terribly difficult to straighten a ladder frame with a frame table and a guy who knows what he's doing. In order of cost: replace the frame with another stock one; straighten the existing frame; one or the other of the above plus front clip it; custom frame with traditional type suspension; rebuilt stock frame with airbags; custom frame with bags, either of the last two with computer controlled bags to make it street practical. IMHO bags are like women with plastic 44DDs: good only for show to impress others, impractical, ride hard, cost a lot of money, get old in a hurry, and are boring once you've played with them a few times.

 

If you decide to go with air, regardless of which chassis, go and buy Truckin or a similar mini truck magazine and check out the ads.

A LOT of people are making a LOT of markup on this stuff.

Most of the stuff used for air ride (bags, lines, fittings, solenoides) was designed as industrial or agricultural components.

Shop around and work out what brand and part number of bits you want.

Then go and check out the industrial and agriculture supply places.

A $10 grain elevator damper doesn't mind pretending to be a $80 air spring.....same part from the same factory.

 

Buy the steel to make a frame table.

Buy a Harbour Freight or similar 10 ton port-a-power

Buy a sledge hammer

Straighten your own frame and fit new tubular gearbox and engine crossmembers (TCR etc have them)

You will have a straight frame and you will own some cool tools and a big solid fabrication bench.

PS If your mate makes custom frames he probably has the frame table and port-a-power already......if he doesn't he shouldn't be making frames

 

You could put a Z-Notch in the rear end which would make straightening the frame easier and also give you room to put the axle on top of the leafs.

 

If I'm correct in what I think I see on your Gallery pictures, your truck is the poster child for something that concerns me about one of the common mod's to these early trucks -- hacking the stock crossmember completely out. There is nothing left to keep the frame rails locked to each other between the radiator support and the bed area. I'd find a donor frame. Why re-invent the wheel?

 

Your cab rust is the worst part - someone has junked that repair up, so not only do you have it to do but you also have to clean up after him. What you have now is an expensive custom home built on a sand foundation - looks good, but will fail the first time any strain is put on it.

I understand they are starting to come up with some repair panels (your cab looks to have rust in all the normal places). That would be a real help as the front corners are a bear to repair, and have to be sturdy enough to hold the doors in place.

I repaired mine, but it was ugly. I found a rust free cab and will be using it instead of the repaired one. The rear rust pockets are not structural, but anyone who knows these trucks will be looking for damage there, and as good as you want the rest of the truck you will want that area to be first class too.

The frame is not a problem - they are easy to repair, and boxing them will hold the shape well. The body shop I grew up in had a piece of railroad track that would slide under the car, and, using chains and hydrailic jacks, you could bend a frame anyway you needed.

In addition, frames are not very expensive to buy. I gave $100 for one donor, and a $150 for the other with a rust free cab. I will have the frame exposed tomorrow and will email you some pictures you can use to fix yours.

Too bad we are on different coasts or I would just give you a good frame to start with.

The real problem is the 460 V8 - man that is a horse that will torque everything on the truck. You need to think about boxing the frame and adding lots of brakes and suspension to hold that beast on the road.

I assume you will be wanting to stay with the Ford 9 inch rear, but it will need help, spring wise. People do it so there are special traction devices and spring setups, but they are expensive and require planning.

And, if you use a gm front clip, you will need two different spares.

 

You will have a hell of a time removing this hump - that "bow" is built in. See the arrows on the picture of your truck that I have attached. The frame humps up about 1 1/2 inch over the rear axle, with all the bow contained between the spring hangers.

If that is the damage you are talking about - do not fix it! If you eyeball down the bottom of the rail you should see that the bottom of the bump stop is about even with the bottom of the rail.

If you would like I can send a picture of my frame showing how much it is humped up over the axle.

 

No, that's not exactly what I'm talking about. I know that part is supposed to be curved, but there are beef-up plates welded right on top of the humps and you can see underneath them where the metal has been buckled. I don't really have a good pic of it. Hey halfdone, my "mate" makes frames with pipe cleaners and popcicle sticks. He's liscensed by the Intergalactic Bureau Of People Whould Shouldn't Be Making Frames But Do It Anyway.

 

Now that's funny. Go for the custom frame and bags!