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302 Timing for best performance ???

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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 10:19 AM
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Lightbulb 302 Timing for best performance ???

I have a 91 F150 302 with a very recently rebuilt engine. I was wondering what the timing (crankshaft position) should be set at for best perfomance/ fuel mileage with out tooo much pinging. What do some of you guys have your set at if you know?? I know the emisions label says 10 degrees BTDC but that dosent mean its the best. Any help is appreciated. thanks
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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I have a 1996 with a 302cid. I have mine set at 15 degrees BTDC. I set it at 20 degrees BTDC and had the engine light come on. I have not had any problems since I set it back down to 15 degrees. The fuel milage did not change much at all and I seem to have just a bit more pep. This definitely helped with the 140,000 on the engine and no rebuild.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 07:53 AM
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I would be cautious about advancing the timing much more than 12 degrees on your fresh rebuild. You need to drive the vehicle over a wide range of operating parameters before you can say that "it's all good" at 15deg. My engine ran fine at 15 deg. until I put a load behind it and started to ping like crazy. I set it back to 11 degrees and haven't had any problems at all. One degree advance dosen't souond like much however I did notice an increase in crispness of engine response so I haven't made any further adjustments. YMMV.

Cheers!

Mike
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:06 AM
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wouldn't it be good to run it a 10 while the computer gets its memeory back? I had comp issues and ran my truck at 10 for about 100 miles and then adjusted for my taste. I think it is around 12.
I know very little but ask way too many questions so don't take my word for gospel.
rob
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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I have my 5.8 at about 18deg now... but.. and this is a big one. This is an engine I personally rebuilt from the ground up with ported heads. I took pains to smooth the combustion chambers and remove all sharp edges and nodes in the castings. The stock castings range from decently clean to really bad, so without this type of rework many engines will not tolerate much ignition advance. The 5.0 I replaced would not take more than 13deg initial advance before pinging was audible, for example.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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when you set the timing remember to pull the spout connector otherwise the computer will fight what ever timing changes you try to make
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:55 AM
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The computer will never fight any timing changes. It gets all timing information from the distributor with no other reference for engine crank or cam position. If you turn the distributor the timing will change no matter if the spout connector is in or if the spout connector is out.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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then why pull the spout?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by EPNCSU2006
The computer will never fight any timing changes. It gets all timing information from the distributor with no other reference for engine crank or cam position. If you turn the distributor the timing will change no matter if the spout connector is in or if the spout connector is out.
There is where you are wrong. The computer will advance and retard the timing from your base set position for optimum engine reliability. the closer you have it to its ideal timing is the better it will run under less than ideal conditions.
Unfortunatly I found that out the hard way when I replaced my computer. They have to have their way on everything. I swear with these computers they go goofy if the cigarette lighter needs changed. Lets go back to the good old days of cubic inches and raw power.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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The reason behind pulling the SPOUT is so that you get an unmodified view of where the distributor is sending the signal to spark - it takes all the computer advance out of the picture. The computer will advance from base timing, yes. I never disputed that. Again, the computer only knows the signal it is getting from the distributor. The computer advances from the base timing a specific amount for every engine load/operating condition, programmed by Ford; it doesn't magically find the optimum timing advance value on its own. The computer doesn't adapt to a new distributor position. If it did, there would be no point in setting the timing at all.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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It was my understanding that the knock sensors would detect knock and the comp would start to retard timing til it didn't detect knock. Therefore it would be tuning to each specific engine since no two engines are the same. Am I way off here? I spent WAY too much time under my hood last winter testing and trying to trace down all the issues it had when I had a no run situation. It ended up being the computer and a whole ton of sensors.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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The 5.0 mustang "ten minute tune up" for the 5.0 was to advance the timing until you hear detonation under load then back it off until gone. Put in 93 octane and advance timing the same way. The motor makes the most power at the edge of detonation. The higher octane will allow for more timing advance without detonation. As far as knock sensors and ill affects, not my area.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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My understanding is that when knock is detected, the computer pulls out a set amount of timing, say 4 degrees for a specified time. The newer EFI stuff is able to constantly run at the edge of knock, but I don't believe that these truck computers are that advanced. The mustang didn't use a knock sensor, and the 302 (and 300?) were the only truck engines to use knock sensors. I have a 302 with a knock sensor, and if I advance the timing too much, it will ping. I left it that way to see if the computer would eventually adjust the maximum advance down a bit to eliminate pinging but the pinging never went away.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 05:13 PM
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You are right in the effect that it has a limited swing to adjust. I have to run mine towards the top because my engine has 255,000 on it. It requires all the cheatin power it can get.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 12:26 PM
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Knock Sensor

Has any one of you had a problem with your knock sensor? I have a knock that comes and goes at idle. I also have a problem of the engine stalling at idle when warm. I have replaced computer, idle air bypass value, Map sensor, temp sensor, rotor and cap.
 
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