390 Oil Pressure
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390 Oil Pressure
I recently purchased a 76 f150 that was sitting for about 10 years. The engine had a slight lifter tick and lower end knock. After putting in new oil pressure gauge I then realized my pressure was running low. 5 pounds at warm idol. SO I replaced my oil pump flushed the system and put synthetic oil in it. Tick gone lower end knock gone. GREAT! Then a new sound came out. Clanking around the timing chain. I knew I needed to replace the chain from the first time I had the oil pan off so I did. Now it sound great until the temp gets to about 170 and then the clanging comes back near the timing chain. The oil pressure now drops lower then 5 pounds at warm idol. Tick comes when the pressure drops of course. Before I dish out the cash for a new block any suggestions?
I am going to check the timing replace the plugs and tune it up and put some 15w40 diesel motor oil in it. Should I put a high volume oil pump in it? I have read plenty on this issue on the forum however I have not heard of anyone described the clanking around the timing chain.
I am going to check the timing replace the plugs and tune it up and put some 15w40 diesel motor oil in it. Should I put a high volume oil pump in it? I have read plenty on this issue on the forum however I have not heard of anyone described the clanking around the timing chain.
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 4
From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Originally Posted by scott_pelletier
I recently purchased a 76 f150 that was sitting for about 10 years. The engine had a slight lifter tick and lower end knock. After putting in new oil pressure gauge I then realized my pressure was running low. 5 pounds at warm idol. SO I replaced my oil pump flushed the system and put synthetic oil in it. Tick gone lower end knock gone. GREAT! Then a new sound came out. Clanking around the timing chain. I knew I needed to replace the chain from the first time I had the oil pan off so I did. Now it sound great until the temp gets to about 170 and then the clanging comes back near the timing chain. The oil pressure now drops lower then 5 pounds at warm idol. Tick comes when the pressure drops of course. Before I dish out the cash for a new block any suggestions?
I am going to check the timing replace the plugs and tune it up and put some 15w40 diesel motor oil in it. Should I put a high volume oil pump in it? I have read plenty on this issue on the forum however I have not heard of anyone described the clanking around the timing chain.
I am going to check the timing replace the plugs and tune it up and put some 15w40 diesel motor oil in it. Should I put a high volume oil pump in it? I have read plenty on this issue on the forum however I have not heard of anyone described the clanking around the timing chain.
and if your timing chain had enough chain whip in it? it might have taken out the Oil seal and the front crank bearing? just a tought..Keep us posted on your finds..
BTW..Syntec Oil is fine for newly built engines..just after break in...but not in older bearing motors..
Russ
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Golden, CO
Wow Russ, 2 days in a row! Maybe Gregg will start posting again. LOL
Ditto on the oil, but I think that "clanging" could be anything from a loose bracket to a fuel pump arm. My bent pushrod rattles and knocks, but it does not clang. The only other thing I can think of is the distributer advance mechanism.
Sounds can be really tough to isolate in an all steel environment, park it on pavement and sound bounces around even more. Are you using something like a mechanics stethoscope or the old screwdriver-to-the-ear trick? Makes a big difference...
Ditto on the oil, but I think that "clanging" could be anything from a loose bracket to a fuel pump arm. My bent pushrod rattles and knocks, but it does not clang. The only other thing I can think of is the distributer advance mechanism.
Sounds can be really tough to isolate in an all steel environment, park it on pavement and sound bounces around even more. Are you using something like a mechanics stethoscope or the old screwdriver-to-the-ear trick? Makes a big difference...
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 4
From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
HYP... I think Greg gave up on us.....I think he's into other "THINGS" LOL.. Butt I wish him Luck on his endevor's....
Yeah I waited 6 Mos..for DSL...and they still havent put it in out here in the sticks..So I sighned back up just to give you guys a hard time !!! LOL
Russ
Yeah I waited 6 Mos..for DSL...and they still havent put it in out here in the sticks..So I sighned back up just to give you guys a hard time !!! LOL
Russ
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 4
From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Yeah Hyp..Sure did.....Now I have Liquid cash in the bank and NO Hi Perf. parts...
I have to wait and see how fast we can get Health Insurance..at our age we cant do without it...SSo thats why eveything but the kitchen sink went liquid!! LOL..
Russ
I have to wait and see how fast we can get Health Insurance..at our age we cant do without it...SSo thats why eveything but the kitchen sink went liquid!! LOL..
Russ
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
Fuel pump cam on the nose of the cam .... mebbe. Engine sounds as if there is too much clearance in the bearings, cam, rod and/or mains. Synthetic of any kind in an engine in this condition is putting lipstick on a .. you get the pic.
tom
tom
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I agree with the 15-40w diesel oil. Low oil pressure at idle on a stock engine really isn't a concern. And from what I've read on various forums a high volume oil pump on a stock FE isn't recommended.
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I believe Tomw has it right… “too much clearance in the bearings, cam, rod and/or mains.” Although I do not want it to be true the engine needs to go… I put some diesel motor oil in it.. help a little.. After I took it for a nice long ride in the high country of Colorado I am now back to stage one. Tick tock and knock with the whack. I brought it to a shop and the guy offered to me a 72 360 for $400 + $100 install + a guarantee on the engine. And yes he keeps my 390. So now I just need to make the decision..
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From: suburban atlanta
Well, if you are as broke as I was back when... you can install rods & mains from the underside and most likely get the pressure back up some. Costs time & price of gasket and bearings. If the rest of the engine is good, this can extend the life for a while.
It is not clean and quick, but can be done in a day if you are persistent.
tom
It is not clean and quick, but can be done in a day if you are persistent.
tom
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From: Long Island USA
Couple of things come to mind:
1) A high-volume oil pump will bring up the hot idle pressure. Lipstick on a pig kinda, but works. But if you do that, you might flood the valve covers - see #2 below.
2) I'd check the clearances on the rocker arms up top, or just put in a restrictor and see what happens. If it's loosing a lot of pressure up-top, it'll starve the lower-end if everything else is loose. Cost=two valve cover gaskets and two Holley jets or cut-off pushrod ends (sb ford, sb chevy?), etc.
1) A high-volume oil pump will bring up the hot idle pressure. Lipstick on a pig kinda, but works. But if you do that, you might flood the valve covers - see #2 below.
2) I'd check the clearances on the rocker arms up top, or just put in a restrictor and see what happens. If it's loosing a lot of pressure up-top, it'll starve the lower-end if everything else is loose. Cost=two valve cover gaskets and two Holley jets or cut-off pushrod ends (sb ford, sb chevy?), etc.
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