thinking of installing a new gear set in an 8.8 rear end. most of the service books say this is job for the pros. anyone had any luck doing this with normal semi-skilled auto mech background. need a lower set for towing

 

It's hard to explain to someone how to install the gear set in writing. If you do not understand how to set the pinion depth and backlash then let some one else do the job that does. Better yet if you do not understand how to use the measurement tools to perform the work then walk away. It can be done with out the measurement tools but you really need to under stand the wear pattern.

A little trick I like to do is get an extra set of pinion bearings and hone them out so I can slip them on and off the pinion gear. This makes shimming for the pinion depth a little easier.

Once you do it it's really not a bad job it's just getting over that first step and understanding everything. I have replied to a few post on here describing more details so a search may help you even more.

 

Once you understand how to do it, what the implications are for not getting it EXACTLY right, and you have the required tools, it still takes a lot of patience to get it right.

If you don't get it right, your new ring & pinion will be junk by the time you get to the end of your street (a slight exaggeration, but not much).

You'll need a set of expensive tools to do the job. I've heard most people say they picked up the tools for $300 to $400. The measurements you make for pinion depth, backlash, and bearing pre-load must be precise.

In other words, I would not attempt this yourself based on a semi-skilled auto background. I fall into that category myself, and I would take my axle to a shop to get gears installed.

 

I've replaced an 8.8" gearset, and it's not too difficult. You must get several measurements exactly right, and sometimes you have to make a call between two close shims...You'll understand it you're sitting there trying to decipher a gear pattern! There are some bare essential tools:
-an inch-pound beam style torque wrench - I borrowed one..
-a 1/2" impact wrench OR a large 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater pipe.
-1-1/16" 1/2" drive socket
-a pinion holding bar - I made this from a 2.5' section of angle iron, with two holes drilled to bolt to one pinion leg.
-dial runout indicator and magnetic stand - I bought a basic set.
-a bearing puller if you're going to do the axle bearings - recommended, I borrowed one.
-a regular 1/2" drive torque wrench
-seal and bearing race driver set, and hammer.
-a hydraulic press - I used the one at work.

Also needed: new crush washer - get at least two, gear set up kit with shims and set up paste, trac-loc kit of you're rebuilding the trac loc, new pinion nut, new pinion bearings and seals. And of course, the gearset.
The recommendation seems to be a new or take out Ford gear set, you have a better chance of getting these right the first time - I believe it!
Replace the crush washer, cross-shaft retainer pin and pinion nut - these are a must!

Also: re-use your original ring gear bolts - the replacements in the kit are not as good as the used originals. Mine stripped during torquing! Save your original inner pinion shaft bearing, and grind out the inside diameter to make it a slip-on fit. You'll use it when setting the pinion depth and backlash, and it makes it a lot easier to slip on and off - you'll press the new replacement back on once you've gotten the shim settings correct.
Shop air makes the job a lot easier, but I did it without. You have to disassemble items in a very careful order when you only have you two hands to break tough nuts loose!
This is a good tutorial: http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html

That being said, the first time it worked perfect - no noise, no self destruction. If you have a buddy who will do it for $200 over the weekend, you might come out ahead. My Bronco was down for a week while I gathered tools and futzed around with it!

 

My nephew has a 1982 F150 4x4 with a 9" rear. He snapped the pinion spline off that the pinion flange slips over. He is replacing the gear and pinion with another used set from another 9". Are the procedures for an 8.8 the same for a 9"?

 

No, the 9" uses adjusters for the carrier bearings, and also has the removable pinion.
You need to be extra careful using used gears, since you need to get the wear pattern exactly where it was before to get the longest life out of the gearset. If the pattern is off, it'll wear out very quickly.