code 67 KOEO
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
what are symtoms of "won't start"
no "key on" lights on dash when key turned to ignition?
starter will not spin over?
starter spins but doesn't engage?
engine turns with starter but will not fire up?
code 67=the neutral/drive switch is open/failed or wiring/connector failed
prevents engine from starting except in neutral and park
brake switch must also be functioning...prevents starting if failed open
don't have location for '90 model neutral/drive switch...suspect it may be on left hand side of tranny as in later models....someone with 90 model will come up with location
no "key on" lights on dash when key turned to ignition?
starter will not spin over?
starter spins but doesn't engage?
engine turns with starter but will not fire up?
code 67=the neutral/drive switch is open/failed or wiring/connector failed
prevents engine from starting except in neutral and park
brake switch must also be functioning...prevents starting if failed open
don't have location for '90 model neutral/drive switch...suspect it may be on left hand side of tranny as in later models....someone with 90 model will come up with location
Last edited by 96_4wdr; May 31, 2006 at 05:57 PM.
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New User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Calgary
Cheched it again with A/C off. Same code 67.
The starter spins and sometimes seems to engage momentarily for maybe one engine revolution and then just spins as long as I turn the key without turning the engine over anymore.Other times it just spins without engaging at all. All dash lights go on.
The starter spins and sometimes seems to engage momentarily for maybe one engine revolution and then just spins as long as I turn the key without turning the engine over anymore.Other times it just spins without engaging at all. All dash lights go on.
Last edited by RayIan; May 31, 2006 at 06:14 PM.
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From: Calgary
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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They do free starter/alternator/battery tests at Canadian Tire and Partsource stores in Canada.
edit: Its free if you bring them the part, not if its still on the car, just in case there was any confusion
edit: Its free if you bring them the part, not if its still on the car, just in case there was any confusion
Last edited by drahgon; May 31, 2006 at 07:22 PM. Reason: adding info to post
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
Hi Ray:
If the starter spins and the engine does not, the solenoid on your starter is not working.
When you crank the engine, two things happen:
1) The solenoid on the starter sucks the starter gear in to engage the flywheel
2) The starter spins and turns the flywheel, provided that step 1 is OK.
You need a new starter, or at least the big solenoid that sits on top of the starter. If the Neutral switch fails, your starter won't even spin at all since electricity to it is cut off.
Good luck and welcome to our forum
If the starter spins and the engine does not, the solenoid on your starter is not working.
When you crank the engine, two things happen:
1) The solenoid on the starter sucks the starter gear in to engage the flywheel
2) The starter spins and turns the flywheel, provided that step 1 is OK.
You need a new starter, or at least the big solenoid that sits on top of the starter. If the Neutral switch fails, your starter won't even spin at all since electricity to it is cut off.
Good luck and welcome to our forum
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 42
From: The OC
Unless you disconnected the battery, you will continue to get code 67. Disconnect the negative cable for a minute to reset your codes. A/C should not have been on and that may be your problem. I am not sure if the sensors will resend an error code without running the engine. Try to get the engine started to get new codes.
I had an error code (634) MLP, also called a Neutral Safety Switch, on my 1990 F-150. It was easily adjusted by aligning the scribe marks on the sensor. It wasn't off by much, in fact the marks were so close, I couldn't believe I was getting the code. Cleared the code and I was good to go. You will probably need to clean the side of the unit to see the marks. No special tool needed as described in most manuals. Use a Cresent wrench after you loosen 2 screws to align the marks.
I had an error code (634) MLP, also called a Neutral Safety Switch, on my 1990 F-150. It was easily adjusted by aligning the scribe marks on the sensor. It wasn't off by much, in fact the marks were so close, I couldn't believe I was getting the code. Cleared the code and I was good to go. You will probably need to clean the side of the unit to see the marks. No special tool needed as described in most manuals. Use a Cresent wrench after you loosen 2 screws to align the marks.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Southern California
Originally Posted by ken1mod
Hey Tung,
If starter spins but engine does not, could also be starter drive clutch. easy to change and cheap.
Ken
If starter spins but engine does not, could also be starter drive clutch. easy to change and cheap.
Ken
When I took the starter apart, there was fork that pushes the starter gear towards the flywheel, but it's driven by a great big solenoid.
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New User
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From: Calgary
I'd have to say that the clutch and the fork - solenoid are two different mechanisms.
I removed the starter and took it to Part Source for a starter test and it checked out fine. The solenoid slams the starter gear forward as it would to mesh with the flywheel and the motor spins fine. So after returning home I checked all the teeth on the flywheel. Also fine. But then I noticed while playing around with the pinion gear on the starter that sometimes it doesn't lock. It will spin freely in both directions. Well it should spin freely in one direction only and lock in the other. I think it's the clutch that controls this and starter tests don't check that.
I removed the starter and took it to Part Source for a starter test and it checked out fine. The solenoid slams the starter gear forward as it would to mesh with the flywheel and the motor spins fine. So after returning home I checked all the teeth on the flywheel. Also fine. But then I noticed while playing around with the pinion gear on the starter that sometimes it doesn't lock. It will spin freely in both directions. Well it should spin freely in one direction only and lock in the other. I think it's the clutch that controls this and starter tests don't check that.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
ah, for the old days of real knowledgeable parts counter people instead of these Commie Wart rejects that can't even work the cash register, count change and find parts on the shelf.....let alone, test a starter drive bendix....
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New User
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From: Calgary
Commie Wart rejects-strong language. The guy at the parts counter apologized several times when I went back. I think he felt pretty stupid being that he's a mechanic.
Anyway, I picked up a starter rebuild kit for $20 cdn. Cheaper than buying a starter. Put the starter back in and changed the fuel filter while I was at it. Now the motor turns over fine but it still won't fire up.
It stalled on me a couple of times the last time I drove it. And then the starter thing developed. Who knows? Maybe the fuel pump.
Anyway, I picked up a starter rebuild kit for $20 cdn. Cheaper than buying a starter. Put the starter back in and changed the fuel filter while I was at it. Now the motor turns over fine but it still won't fire up.
It stalled on me a couple of times the last time I drove it. And then the starter thing developed. Who knows? Maybe the fuel pump.