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if I used the original light switch and ignition switch on my 12 volt restomod?
I know I wouldn't have a dimmer or dome light function but I don' think I really care about that.
Did the original ignition switch have an accessory position--I don't really remember. (yes, it's been THAT long!)
I am thinking about using the original start button, headlight switch, and ignition switch unless I find a compelling reason not too. I will be using a Painless harness.
I don't think I would use the original light switch unless you are doing a restoration. The switch will not give you parking and headlights at the same time like modern switches (if that is something you want) and it's nice to be able to operate the dome light from the light switch. I think the original dome light might have had it's own switch (my 48 F-3 did).
On my '51 if you turned the light switch all the way to the left it would turn the dome light on and you could also use the switch on the dome light to turn it on.
On my 54 I ran a jumper wire from the headlight terminal to the running light terminal on the switch. (the wire was about two inches long). That way my park lights were on with the headligts. Good luck, Jag
On my 54 I ran a jumper wire from the headlight terminal to the running light terminal on the switch. (the wire was about two inches long). That way my park lights were on with the headligts. Good luck, Jag
That's what i was thinking. Guess you just gotta play with it.
On my '51 if you turned the light switch all the way to the left it would turn the dome light on and you could also use the switch on the dome light to turn it on.
I'm not sure my 48 had the original Ford headlight switch. It was an old style switch with two positions and an inline fuse mounted on it. Position one was parking and tail lights and position two was head and tail lights. Turning the **** to the left did nothing except unscrew the **** from the shaft and the shaft was not removable like modern switches...
I don't think the ignition has an accessory, I also used a jumper wire on the original headlight switch I can have my park lights on by themselves or when the head lights are on. If you turn the not to the left the interior light will come on or if the doors are open.
I don't think the ignition has an accessory, I also used a jumper wire on the original headlight switch I can have my park lights on by themselves or when the head lights are on. If you turn the not to the left the interior light will come on or if the doors are open.
Jaye
Excuse this old fart electrician but, it seems to me that if you ran a jumper from the parking light terminal to the headlight terminal on the headlight switch without using a diode, you should have both sets of lights on both positions. What am I missing here?
Bike
Excuse this old fart electrician but, it seems to me that if you ran a jumper from the parking light terminal to the headlight terminal on the headlight switch without using a diode, you should have both sets of lights on both positions. What am I missing here?
Bike
I think you are correct. I don't think having JUST the parking lights is a big deal to me. I don't think I use that ability on my new vehicles.
What is it you are trying to accomplish here? Using the old switches because you have them? In that case you would have the same functionality as original. Using the original switches for the esthetics of the ***** but would rather have the functionality of modern electricals? Then replace the switches with ones that have the functions you want and adapt the ***** to them.
What is it you are trying to accomplish here? Using the old switches because you have them? In that case you would have the same functionality as original. Using the original switches for the esthetics of the ***** but would rather have the functionality of modern electricals? Then replace the switches with ones that have the functions you want and adapt the ***** to them.
Yes, I have the switches and could save some money. A new headlight switch runs about $25-$50. Fitment could be an issue as well since most modern headlight switches have a rheostat for a dimmer. The typical **** on these units are pretty ugly black GM knockoffs. They may or may not come off. You are correct, the perfect solution I think is a new small switch without a rheostat and a handle that comes off and can be replaced with my stock ****. I have purchased a switch and it does not fit because of the rheostat. I could make it work by rearranging things (what's new about that, right?), but I really don't want another hole in the dash.
Ditto with the ignition switch. Would love a new switch with same "footprint" that would give me an accessory position.Actually, I think I have found one at PepBoys but the bezel is not chrome. Cost = $14.95.
It's been so long that I really could not remember what the old stuff would do and not do!
There are plenty of headlight switch variants out there and the rotory ones seem to be quite compact with a separate thumbwheel dimmer that could be hidden mounted (how many times have you adjusted your instrument brightness?), most have a removable **** or **** and shaft that the stock switch **** could be adapted to. JB Weld is great stuff for bonding the **** to a removable shaft. Bezels are often interchangable.
I'm using the generic black **** switches since they go with my interior design, but the light switch is pretty compact. I got them from EZ wire, their switch prices were ~ 1/2 what Ron Francis et al wanted for them.