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what tig voltage

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Old May 30, 2006 | 05:24 PM
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what tig voltage

so I'm unable to arc weld on the body, and I now need a mig set-up, for just body work do I need a 110v or 220v, and is a clarke tig good or spend a little more for a hobart?
 
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Old May 30, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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Well, Mig and Tig are two diofferent beasts.

My philosphy on welders is buy as much as you can afford...

Why?

Because you can always turn the heat down on a big one, but will run out of heat on a small one.
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 08:40 AM
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I used a 110V 85A Dayton Mig with .024 wire with 75/25 mix feed to install the patch panels in my 51F1. A Tig unit is the Cadillac of the welders but it takes some practice to learn to use them. Depending upon your experience with welding and how much you want to spend on a welder are factors also. I have seen used Migs on Craigslist go for under $500.00, and usually $700.00 and up for a Tig unit.

Rod 51F1
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 08:53 AM
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If your just doing body work the 110v mig will do fine. If you fabricate stuff you may want to step up to a 220v with a higher amp capacity. If you go all out and start building buggies or racecars get a tig. I have a 110v for sheet metal and a regular stick arc welder for heavy stuff.
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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I use a Lincoln "Handy MIG" 110v welder (.024 wire) to do all my patch panel and custom sheet metal work. I bought the cart for it also. I have about $600 total in the setup including helmet, tank, etc. Works great.

As Rod said, TIG is the cadillac of welders and can do truly beautiful work on all thicknesses of stock. However, I have never seen a 110v TIG setup. In fact, MIG is the only welder that I'm aware of that is offered in 110v, so unless you have a good 220v circuit in your garage, MIG may be the only option.
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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I use a Hobart (made by Miller) 110V 140A Mig welder I bought from Northern Tool for <500.00 delivered (sometimes on special with the cart). It will weld up to 3/16" mild steel, which is heavier than most of the metal on our trucks. I'd highly recommend it for body work. Don't bother with a Mig that isn't set up to use shielding gas or one that requires buying an accessory setup for gas, it will cost more in the long run, and you definitely don't want to use flux core wire for sheet metal!
A cheap Tig is worse than a decent Mig and costs more money! A truely usable Tig ( one that includes a phase inverter) will start at ~ 1200.00.
The learning curve with Mig is very short, you can be doing satisfactory welds in 4-8 hrs of practice, less with someone showing you how to get started. Unless you have done a lot of torch welding Tig will take a lot longer to master.
Usually I would recommend going to the 220V 175A Mig, but if you don't have 220 available or your budget is tight you'd be better served IMHO to buy the Hobart machine like mine and spend the difference on a good self darkening helmet. A good one will start at ~ 100.00. Any cheaper and it won't react fast enough.
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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I came into a few extra bucks for tools and just bought a Miller 180SD Tig welder and a Millermatic 175 Mig welder. I have been using a 110 MIG from HF, and the 130amp TIG from HF as well. Both work fine, altho adjustability is an issue.

I bought the 180SD used (looks like never), so I ended up with enough to squeeze in a 40amp Plasma cutter too!..

All these are 220 only.

Sam
 
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