Heater core valve?

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Jun 18, 2006 | 10:03 PM

#16

fmr9

Elder User

Joined: Nov 2005

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Thanks for the additional info.
I have been thinking about this. I like to run my heater thru the vents in really cold weather. Because of this, I think I will go with a manual control for the valve. Should just have to switch it twice a year. Close it early summer and open it early fall.

Jun 18, 2006 | 11:16 PM

#17

OneFifty96

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Joined: Jun 2006

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I've seen people saying it before, why not just run the hose (or a shorter hose) back into the block? its simple and solves your problem. As for the problem of teh heater core possible rusting through from the stagnant coolent, just blast an air compressor into the idle hose and clean it out. Should work fine, since I did it when my heater core was leaking.

Nov 17, 2006 | 01:33 AM

#18

F350JOHN

More Turbo

Joined: Feb 2006

Posts: 601

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From: Colorado Springs, CO

Sorry to steer the topic off course slightly, but my 1992 F-350 with the heater on hot and high, just blows luke warm air out. I changed the thermostat, but to my suprise, it fixed nothing.

Any help in the right direction would be awesome.

Thanks,
John

Nov 17, 2006 | 07:06 AM

#19

fmr9

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Joined: Nov 2005

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John, there are two likely causes of what you described. Either the blend door is not working right, or the heater core is mostly plugged with crud. You need to verify the blend door is opening and closing properly. If it is stuck, you add enough outside air to keep the heater from doing it's job. Sometimes this is a vacum problem, or something can fall down thru the defrost vents and jam the vent door. Pen, pencil, kids toys are some possibilitys.
If the door is opening and closing fully, then check the heater hoses. Both should be
Hot. This only indicates that at least some water is circulating thru the core. Doesn't indicate how much water. If partially plugged and hoses will still both be hot. You can try pulling both hoses off the engine and using a garden hose to back flush the core. That might help. The core is pretty easy to replace, and not too expensive, about $30. If it were my truck, and I suspected a partially plugged core, I would just replace it.
Good luck Frank

Mar 28, 2007 | 06:40 AM

#20

350z

Laughing Gas

Joined: May 2004

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From: latrobe pa

Did anyone find the part number for the vacuum operated valve ? One of the board sponsers has them , Craig.

Mar 28, 2007 | 07:27 AM

#21

NumberDummy

Ford Parts Specialist

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 88,826

Likes: 784

From: Simi Valley, CA

D4AZ-18495-A Vacuum Controlled Inline Heater Valve (Motorcraft YG-136)

C3UZ-18495-A Inline Heater Valve, Cable Operated (Motorcraft YG-133)

D1HZ-18495-B .. Manual Heater Control Valve (Motorcraft YG-126)-this valve resembles a outside water faucet and works on the same principle. It has a 90 degree 5/8" nipple to attach the heater hose. It screws into the manifold.

Mar 28, 2007 | 03:24 PM

#22

F350JOHN

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Joined: Feb 2006

Posts: 601

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From: Colorado Springs, CO

Hey Frank,

Thanks to all you guys, I replaced my heater core, and the problem went away totally. I wished I had access to a remote mount filter head at the same time I replaced my heater core, I would like to run a coolant filter to catch all the crud floating around. (Before I plug up my new heater core!)
Because I'm too cheap to do a coolant flush! LOL

Mar 29, 2007 | 12:24 AM

#23

fmr9

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Joined: Nov 2005

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Glad things worked out for you. Your thriftyness with the coolant reminded me of my Grandpa. Back in the early 50's, watched him drain out the coolant in the spring and store it till next winter. He put it in a couple of glass 1 gallon milk jugs with aluminum foil lids, and set it in the basement. Lots of crude went to the bottom, and he strained it thru cheese cloth as he very carefully poured it back in the radiator.
Frank