Charged A/C, E250 won't start now?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Charged A/C, E250 won't start now?
Related?
I can't imagine it is but my otherwise stone reliable 92 E250 5.8 wouldn't start after I installed R-12 to R-134 retrofit valves and added 13oz of refrigerant. Cranks, fuel but no spark. I did notice the blower fan would shut off when I turned it to Max A/C, until the refrigerant was in. Shut off, restart and the fan would reset or something. Check all fuses and connectors near low pressure A/C valve.
I thought maybe the surge in amperage from the blower shutting off had an effect on the EEC? I tried to pull the codes but like a dope disconnected the battery 10 minutes before so nothing was stored or displayed.
I can't imagine it is but my otherwise stone reliable 92 E250 5.8 wouldn't start after I installed R-12 to R-134 retrofit valves and added 13oz of refrigerant. Cranks, fuel but no spark. I did notice the blower fan would shut off when I turned it to Max A/C, until the refrigerant was in. Shut off, restart and the fan would reset or something. Check all fuses and connectors near low pressure A/C valve.
I thought maybe the surge in amperage from the blower shutting off had an effect on the EEC? I tried to pull the codes but like a dope disconnected the battery 10 minutes before so nothing was stored or displayed.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
I would start from with the basics.
disconnect the battery and check for shorts.
reconnect and check for power at the starter solenoid (I)(S) when key is turned to on and start.
check EEC relay, fuse link/fuse.
I would check the battery (+) cable for loose (+) wires and pull on the fusable links to make sure they did not blow. Most likely you popped something reconnecting the battery.
disconnect the battery and check for shorts.
reconnect and check for power at the starter solenoid (I)(S) when key is turned to on and start.
check EEC relay, fuse link/fuse.
I would check the battery (+) cable for loose (+) wires and pull on the fusable links to make sure they did not blow. Most likely you popped something reconnecting the battery.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Franklin2 said this in another post but it seams to fit here for no spark.
“The first thing I would check is voltage at the coil + terminal. Before you go on a test run, get the wiring prepared so you can probe the + wire of the coil, with a good clean place on the engine block to hook the ground for the meter or testlight.
The next test would be to probe the negative (or "tach") terminal of the coil. Put the probe on the - terminal, and put the negative of the meter or testlight on the clean engine ground.
The coil is the last part of the ignition system besides the sparkplugs and sparkplug wires. What you are looking for is around 12 volts on the positive of the coil when the key is turned to run, and also when the key is in start.
If that is ok, then do the negative coil terminal test. What you should see here is the testlight or voltmeter blink on and off when the engine is cranked.
If you have + voltage at the coil, and the - of the coil voltage is blinking, then you should have spark”
I have also had the ICM on the Distributor go out while working on something else and cause this.
“The first thing I would check is voltage at the coil + terminal. Before you go on a test run, get the wiring prepared so you can probe the + wire of the coil, with a good clean place on the engine block to hook the ground for the meter or testlight.
The next test would be to probe the negative (or "tach") terminal of the coil. Put the probe on the - terminal, and put the negative of the meter or testlight on the clean engine ground.
The coil is the last part of the ignition system besides the sparkplugs and sparkplug wires. What you are looking for is around 12 volts on the positive of the coil when the key is turned to run, and also when the key is in start.
If that is ok, then do the negative coil terminal test. What you should see here is the testlight or voltmeter blink on and off when the engine is cranked.
If you have + voltage at the coil, and the - of the coil voltage is blinking, then you should have spark”
I have also had the ICM on the Distributor go out while working on something else and cause this.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
first today
'80-'86 FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
15
Sep 21, 2010 04:53 PM
