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Go Figure this new one...
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Removed neg cable.
Replaced Fuel Filter
Replaced DHCP and EGR valve.
Cleaned ports.
Cleaned Throttle Body.
Still freaken getting the P0401 code and the annoying Check Engine light.
First one to figure this out gets an "All Inclusive" date with my Hot Sister...
Are you talking about the DPFE sensor that was replaced? I just replaced mine on my 99 Mazda B3000 today thanks to the info I got from here. Light hasn't come back on but I've also only driven about 30 miles with it also. Also might check for vac leaks and that it is getting vac to the EGR valve and that it is working when Vac is applied.
Are you talking about the DPFE sensor that was replaced? I just replaced mine on my 99 Mazda B3000 today thanks to the info I got from here. Light hasn't come back on but I've also only driven about 30 miles with it also. Also might check for vac leaks and that it is getting vac to the EGR valve and that it is working when Vac is applied.
Yes, the DPFE was replaced...
Light comes on the next day or after 150+ miles.
How do I check if the EGR valve is getting vac? By checking to see if the line that attaches to the top has vacuum?
Testing the vacuum on the egr can be done by disconnecting the vacuum line, putting a piece of two foot tubing to the egr, and sucking on it while the truck is running. Mind you, I'm not suggesting this is necessarily the most scientific nor safest way to do it, but it's fairly easy and will give you an indication if the EGR is at least functional (while applying suction, you should hear a change in idle).
BTW: I've been fighting 0401 and 1401 codes for the better part of six months on my 2.5l Ranger too. I've replaced everything but the EGR valve, but after testing it, it seems to be working...so I'm not laying out the $65 for one just yet. I've got about a year to get this thing diagnosed and fixed, else I'll be failing emissions and will have to take it to Ford ($$$). CEL's are very frustrating ;-(
On my '99 one of the ports supplying the DPFE sensor was plugged. To test, remove rubber hoses and start engine. If you can't feel exhaust coming from both ports then one is stopped up (or the orfice between them). I cleared mine by racing the motor with the hoses off. No more annoying check engine light!
On my '99 one of the ports supplying the DPFE sensor was plugged. To test, remove rubber hoses and start engine. If you can't feel exhaust coming from both ports then one is stopped up (or the orfice between them). I cleared mine by racing the motor with the hoses off. No more annoying check engine light!
Can you please elaborate with detail? Maybe pictures.
If you run with the DPFE off, won't it idle like crazy?
And what do you mean race it?
There is a tube that runs from the exhaust to the EGR Valve. Somewher along it there are two small tubes (ports) attached to it. These are for the two small rubber hoses that go to the sensor. Temporarily detach the hoses and start the engine. You should feel exhaust gas emitting from each. On my engine I could feel none coming from the port nearest the EGR valve so I raced (gunned, VROOM-VROOM, rapidly increased/decreased engine speed) then checked again and exhaust was coming from both ports. Reconnected sensor hoses, reset code and no more check engine light in about 5000 miles.
There is a tube that runs from the exhaust to the EGR Valve. Somewher along it there are two small tubes (ports) attached to it. These are for the two small rubber hoses that go to the sensor. Temporarily detach the hoses and start the engine. You should feel exhaust gas emitting from each. On my engine I could feel none coming from the port nearest the EGR valve so I raced (gunned, VROOM-VROOM, rapidly increased/decreased engine speed) then checked again and exhaust was coming from both ports. Reconnected sensor hoses, reset code and no more check engine light in about 5000 miles.
So you didn't race a Chevy truck or anything like that. You just raced the wind... Who won?
I'll look for the two rubber hoses that attach to the exhaust-to-egr tube...
Why not just remove the two hoses and clean them out with a compressor or cleaning fluid?
In mine, the rubber hoses weren't stopped up, it was down in the little metal ports (pipes, tubes?) to which the rubber hoses attach or it was in the orfice (inside the large tube). Once I "gunned,raced, whatever" the engine with the hoses removed apparently the exhaust pressure blew out the obstruction. Spray type carburetor cleaner might help, too; but don't get it in the sensor. I assume, in my case, it was exhaust carbon buildup but you may have a totally different problem.
In mine, the rubber hoses weren't stopped up, it was down in the little metal ports (pipes, tubes?) to which the rubber hoses attach or it was in the orfice (inside the large tube). Once I "gunned,raced, whatever" the engine with the hoses removed apparently the exhaust pressure blew out the obstruction. Spray type carburetor cleaner might help, too; but don't get it in the sensor. I assume, in my case, it was exhaust carbon buildup but you may have a totally different problem.
Darn... I was already looking for some co-workers to race!
Freaken code returned again! Drove it for months with the CEL till Texas Inspection time forced me to buy an: EGR Solenoid, EGR Pressure Sensor, and finally EGR Valve (Went thru the process of elimination). No more CEL.