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If I recall correctly, does the #9 under the hood also go hand in hand with the CPS cirucuts and that is the one that HAS to be disconnected before changing it out?
Have you checked the oil level. I had a leak on the oil and it gave some screwy symptoms. It would start and idle fine, act up .5 mile up the road. Let if set for a little while and it would do the same setup again. The oil was low enough that once you started it and then run the pan empty and developed air pockets that it would act up because the oil pressure wasnt there to fire the injectors. At least that is what I was told when it happened to me.
I never pulled mine, however the batts were disconnected. Anytime I do anything with the electrical componets, I disconnect the batts. Fired one to many computers that way.
The oil level is fine. The truck develops oil pressure while cranking. I replaced four of the relays and moved the rest around. This thing is really kicking my tail.. This unit is equipped with a battery shut off and it was off when I chnaged the CPS. I was told that the high pressure fuel regulator may be bad.
The oil level is fine. The truck develops oil pressure while cranking. I replaced four of the relays and moved the rest around. This thing is really kicking my tail.. This unit is equipped with a battery shut off and it was off when I chnaged the CPS. I was told that the high pressure fuel regulator may be bad.
You mean the HPOP? I'm starting to wonder if it didn't give up the ghost.
What's that trick to test it, unplug the IPR and see if it runs?
Well,
Got it running today after we replaced the IPR. One of our mechanics took a class last week offered by Standard products. They basically said that there are three things that will cause this, oil sensor, CPS or the IPR. It's been a battle but it's running good again.