If it has plastic wear wrap (for lack of a better name) it is split and you pull it off. Then unwrap the wrapping tape or cut it with scissors being careful not to cut any wires.

You can also bridge the harness with a wire taped on the outside of it for the wire inside that does not have continuity and splice it at each end.

When done rewrap the harness with black plastic electrical tape and snap the plastic wear wrap back on.

 

What should the resistance be on each of those wires in c323?

OK. If I am reading the diagram right, in the Start position there should be 12v coming through the Neutral safety switch to the module white wire!? Is this true? and if is is true and I am not getting 12v through from the neutral safety switch could the switch have a heat related short??

 

If you were not getting power through the neutral safety switch, the truck would not crank. The diagram doesn't show it, but the nentral safety feeds the starter relay also.

 

To where? Near zero to the other end and if unpluged Inf. from one to the other and ground.
YES, while in Start, The White Wire Changes the Timing for starting also.
I guess it could, I never heard of it.

 

Yes you are right, also the other diagram above it does show it.

 

More elimination, same problem.
Yesterday I changed the pigtail connectors (2 module and the distributor/stator). I found the module 4 wire female connector at a local parts warehouse. The other ones I just cut out the connector and put on butt connectors. I guess that eliminates the connectors.

 

I need an update, with everything you have done is it still running OK when cold and no spark when warm?

If so what are you calling no spark and how are you checking it?

Are you using a test light to check both sides of the coil while cranking with no spark?

 

It still starts strong when it is cold. When warmed up it turns over fine but will not fire. I put a test light on both sides of coil both cold and warm. + side is fine both cold and warm but NEG(tach) side has flashing light when cold but no light when warm.
I have been doing the tests in chapter 5 of my Haynes manual.
Primary Circuit Continuity Test
voltage for the Green/yellow wire from module to the coil tach terminal Should be 1.5v in RUN. I am getting (warm) 1.27v, short in the circuit.

Ignition Module-to-Coil wire short check
Resistance between the coil TACH terminal and ground should be more than 100 ohms, I am getting less than 100 ohms when warm. If there is less than 100 ohms, the harness is shorted between the module and the coil.
I am going to 1st check the voltage(Start) of the red/light blue wire coming from the neutral safety switch ( past the 'Y' split to the starter relay) to the module connector. If that checks out OK than I will have to check the wires in the harness from the module to the coil and distributor. Would I check those for resistance to find a short? I took off the black tape/cover on the harness from those points to see if anything stood out on the outside of those wires but they all look good.

What do you all think?

 

OK I just went out to a good running cold and hot 83 DP II Truck that I bought new back in 83 and took some readings.

As you know if you have read other post I have wrote the first step is to take the Haynes manual out and burn it.

I get 1.32V on mine. Also on the + side I get 10.24V in the Start Pos.
I get 0.75V on mine. Also on the + side I get 6.14V in the RUN Pos.
Battery Pos to Neg. was 11.92V
I get 20.5 Ohms with a DVM on the good truck. I think you need to look at the pick-up coil in the Distributor.

EDIT
All of the above test were taken with the NEG (BLACK) lead of the DVM on the NEG Post of the Battery.

 

If you had a short in those wires it would not run when it is cold either.
The only short they could be talking about would be inside the module.
Where the wires go into the Modules that you have been putting on do have a Blue grommet at that point, do they not? If not get one with a Blue grommet at the point where the wires go in.

 

Yes, the module has a blue grommet. I had a new pickup coil put in also. I am not ruling that out but I have replaced it.
These tests were run grounding to the base of the distributor. I don't know if that will effect the reading on the meter but I am just following the haynes manual. That is all I have to go on. Is there a better manual to follow?

 

For my 83 Truck I use all ford manuals I have a complete set for 1983 plus the Wiring Diagrams and the Electrical & Vacuum Trouble Shooting Manual, as I say I bough all of them from HELM Inc.
I always buy a set for each car and truck I buy and I still have all of them.

 

After all this, we assumed the module and the pickup in the distributor were good since you just had them replaced. I am beginning to wonder now if one of them is failing when warm. I would swap them out again, or you could possibly take some cold spray and spray the ignition module when it will not start, and see if it then starts. You could also cold spray the pickup unit in the dist and see if it would start.

 

would I just spray that directly on top of the module and the pickup?
In start mode, the white wire on the module should have about 12v, correct?
Is the current coming INTO the module or OUT of the module through the white wire?
I am going to check the voltage on the white wire again in start but in a previous test I did there was not any voltage there.

 

Yes on the spray question.
Yes on the 12V~ start mode question.
The current is going into the module in the start mode and when the module is powered by the White wire the timing is also changed for starting.