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2006 Axle Noise Steering Pull

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Old May 24, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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Exclamation 2006 Axle Noise Steering Pull

When i go over bumps, i hear a tiny jangling sound at the front axle. I also have an increasing pull in the steering. Going straight is usually fine, but there is resistance when turning. As i turn further, it actually feels like the steering wheel is being pulled in that direction.

I thought i was driving in 4x4 but the hubs are free. These hubs appear to be manual even though there is a vacuum connection. The noise is a loud rattle that i only hear going over bumps. The bigger the bump, the more noise. Cruising straight & smooth down the road there are no noises.

Does this sound like wheel bearings, U-joints, what do you think? I've jacked up the front & there is very little movement when i try to shake the tire. I crawled underneath the truck & found that i can grab the axle on either side at the U-joint & shake the axle.

I can make it move enough to hear it clunk a bit. Enough that this might be the noise i hear exaggerated at speed. I can see the movement of the inner & outer shafts going into the housing & into the hub. Should i upgrade to Dynatrac's kit, or just a pair of Warn hubs? I'm driving half way across the country next week & am feeling increasingly uncomfortable with the current simptoms. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt
 
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Old May 24, 2006 | 10:07 PM
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Do you have "Auto" and "Manual" on the hubs?

First thing I can think of is the needle bearing inside the hub. It's called the "inner spindle bearing".

The axle rides in this needle bearing. The needle bearnig is spinning at all times. When you are NOT in 4x4, this needle bearing spins in relation to the axle.

If you hit a bump, the axle all-of-a-sudden grabs the needle bearing and spins up VERY fast.
 
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Old May 24, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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The hubs are not automatic. They say Lock & Free. I forgot to mention that my ABS light also comes on every time i cycle the key. It takes a few miles, but it always comes on.

I had it tested but did not get the codes from him. The tester showed that something is wrong in both front hubs, not sure what. He suggested that when the ABS light is coming on, that usually means the wheel bearings are going out. Will needle bearings be this noisy? The jangle is very loud, never misses a bump.

What is involved in repairing the needle bearings? Do my simptoms definitely indicate the needle bearings?

Thanks,
Matt
 
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Old May 25, 2006 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by krewat
Do you have "Auto" and "Manual" on the hubs?
I should have said "Auto" and "Lock"...

If the ABS light is coming on, sounds like the wheel bearings are probably shot.
 
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Old May 26, 2006 | 09:02 AM
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With the front end jacked up, there is absolutely no play. None, the wheel bearings feel tight. I've done it a few times now & the only movement is just slight give in the tire.

Is there any difference in the ABS sensors between 2000 & 2006? Is it possible that my 2000's computer is looking for a different signal than what the 2006 sensors are sending? Anyone know?

The noise is a jingling sound that i really don't hear over small bumps like manhole covers. I hear the tiny sound more when i go over rough patches of road.

Figured out the steering. An alignment mechanic had cranked that steering gear in all the way. Backing it off just a bit let go of the grabbing. I'm gonna back it off a little more. It does still turn father to the right than to the left. Does that have anything to do with the adjuster screw on top of the box?

Anyway, my new 2006 hubs are completely manual only, even though the vacuum lines plug in like usual. I don't know why i'm getting the noise, but i don't feel anything wrong in the axle. As far as howling, it is impossible to tell with my big tires already making noise. The u-joints are tight, may need to be greased. Any ideas on the jingly rattle?

Also, i still have no Cruise Control. I'm being told that ABS has nothing to do with it. I still have a horn & no airbag problems. All connections at the master cylinder seem good. Is there a way to test the switch? Can i just pry that switch off to test or does the wheel have to come apart?

Thanks,
Matt
 
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Old May 26, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Check the needle bearings that the axles ride in. With the hubs unlocked, you should be able to spin the u-joint by hand and it should move smoothly, not ratcheting noise, no grabbing.
 
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Old May 26, 2006 | 08:20 PM
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They do turn easily, no grabbing at all. Such a tiny rattle, only over jiggly bumps. I'm giving up on chasing it for now. My steering gear has been having problems. I was backing it out today before going back in with it when the adjustment screw cracked.
The Allen wrench was loose & i tried to tighten it up a little more, but the screw finally had a chunk break off. It was not fun pulling my trailer back with 4" of play in my steering wheel. Have to order a replacement from PSC when they re-open. Thanks for the help. I may chase this again next month. Or until something breaks.
Thanks,
Matt
 
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Old May 26, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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I'd chase that "alignment mechanic" who over-cranked your steering box, and get the place to pay for the new box. Seriously, breaking off the screw while trying to fix something that should have NEVER been touched, that's gotta count for something.
 
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