Sounds like that 'CSTR' on your trans extension might actually be a C8TR, meaning a 68/9 truck part. Are you sure about the 311 on your axle? That's the space where the axle ratio is stamped, in this case suggesting a 3.11 ratio. A letter following the ratio usually means a limited slip. Does your axle have a cover on the back or is it a regular 9 inch with the gear set bolted in from the front? The head casting codes will be under the valve covers, like Dennis said. You were right about the casting code on the block. Now I'm curious, what date code is on your windows? There is a letter/number combo just below the 'carlite' lettering. These are usually coded within a month ot two of the actual build date of the truck. Regarding that vacuum port on the back of the carb; was it on the body or lid of the carb? If it's not used, make sure it's capped.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Feb-02 AT 08:36 AM (EST)]thanks again here's an update... the rear axle is the front bolt in set (10 bolts) and I missed a number the first time it reads;
WDM-T OAB
3.50.8.7 311A

this all corresponds with my vin info:
F10GLH39223
131 MB F 103 M4 C 08
04500 148 4000 28

The transmission(3speed manual) reads: (on driver's side below linkage:
9L24
C8AR 7006-C

on the passenger side a metal tag:
RAT H3
017679

and passenger side extension where flange comes out:
RF-C5TR
7A040-B
W 2
L289

I also found on the large thin blue
cover plate between the rear of the enginefront of the bell housing : DOAE6A373-A






And you mentioned the glass, well the front windshield has been replaced but all the door glass is original. I found:
9m and FM-M60 and on the vent glass: 9M FM-M30.

as far as my intake/ carb issues go, I've been exchanging emails with a guy at Pony carburetors and we've concluded based on the numbers that I have 302 with a 289 4v intake and so I've ordered a restored 4100 autolite 1.08 venturi from them. Pricy but they'll do all the adjustments and settings according to my set-up and run test it before they ship. the only thing left is to locate a carburetor spacer plate(dense black plastic about 1/4 inch thick with a vacuum port at the rear). I had one at one time along with the 4100 carb in a box in my shed- now they're missing. Anyone have any ideas about the spacer, can't find one anywhere around here.

thanks again
Rob

 

as far as the vacuum lines go, it's a dual point vacuum distributor, the current setup is: the furthest port out from the distributor ( the advance side I believe) is connected to a somewhat angled port at the top rear passenger side of the carb- actuallly on the lip where the air cleaner rests. The port closest to the distributor ( the retard side) is connected to the base of the carb passenger side below and sort of in front of the fast idle adjustment. Starting is fine as is idle, timing seems good. the problem is when I turn it off I get sort of a surging/whooshing sound like a blast of fuel/ similar to dieseling but mostly one big whoosh, like the throttle plate is not closing...

 

Regarding your vacuum lines, definitely connect the front the front port on the dist to the carb port under the choke housing. Take the other hose off and cap the port under the air cleaner lid.You don't need the rear port on the dist for anything and there won't be a vac leak there if you leave it open. Your transmission code is nov 24, 69 and the cover plate is a 70 part number. The date code on the windows says dec(m) 69(9). Does the back window code match these? A shop manual will have the translation for the build date of the truck(the H39xxx part of your serial number). I might even have some info on that; I'll have a look. If it was built in dec 69, it will actually be a 70, as aug was usually the changeover month. The doors/glass may even be not original. I was in error about that 311 number. The 3.50 is actually the ratio code. mike

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Feb-02 AT 08:03 PM (EST)]thanks a lot, and if only one vacuum line is needed, do I really need the carb spacer for the 4100?

 

I'd use the spacer for the heat insulating value if nothing else. I think the one off a 390 will work. Some of them have a port built in for the pcv hose from the valve cover. Just for your info, your serial no. shows a build date of Jan, 1970 so the glass codes are in the ball park. Built at Michigan truck and delivered to Louisville. The engine is obviously not original. If your timing is set up okay, maybe throw a bottle of Karb-out through it. It solved a dieseling problem I had on a 360 once. mike

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Mar-02 AT 08:12 PM (EST)]back again for an update- went the route of the four barrel, got a resotred autolite 4100 from "pony carburetors:, a 1 inch carb spacer with pvc hook up. got some fittings and reduced down to vacuum line size for the port on the manifold (retard side of vacuum diaphram of distributor) advance side connected to base of carb under choke control, automatic choke setup with heat riser tube strapped to header. throttle linkage for a 66-68 mustang from "Mac's antique". thew it all together and WOW, now I know what power is like! had to toy with timing several times but finally got it. Didn't use a light, just my ear and some test drives. It actually barks the tires in first - unintentionally... sometimes... Today I put in the aftermarket "Highliner" from LMC, headliner setup with four speakers and a stereo, very nice, although I couldn't get my old chrome headliner trim to fit. I'll figure it out someday. and replaced my valve covers with some aftermarket aluminum powder black with polished ribs that say "302 powered by Ford" from "Mac's Antique (for a mustang) and fastened them down with some anodized blue "T" valve cover bolts. finished off with a chrome breather cap... will post a new photo once the gig is done... oh yeah... found the numbers on my heads - definitely 302 and "8B24"... so there you have it, see "tryppster's" in user gallery for photos.

 

Great to hear you've got it going. I'd like to find a 4100 for mine. mike