Ammeter Wiring Fried !!!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I have like 4 Voltage regulators .. when I was going through my problems.
Original which fried = 0 Volts
2 Wells = 16+ volts
Then I bought a nice Shiney Ford Regulator, was a little pricey but Id rather use a regulator with a Ford stamp if I cant have my original.
Voltage was 14.5-15.5, finally fixed the problem, solid 14.5, not adjustable, good for me since I have the Two battery Camper special F250.
- Dan
Original which fried = 0 Volts
2 Wells = 16+ volts
Then I bought a nice Shiney Ford Regulator, was a little pricey but Id rather use a regulator with a Ford stamp if I cant have my original.
Voltage was 14.5-15.5, finally fixed the problem, solid 14.5, not adjustable, good for me since I have the Two battery Camper special F250.
- Dan
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Funny thing about that is the Wells are made in USA, and the new Ford regulator comes from China .. 
All my other vehicles have Internal regulators, 94 Tbird, 94 SC, 95 Tbird, 99 Blazer, 06 TrailBlazer, Im used to working on Fuel Injected computer controlled vehicles .. this 73 Ford is my only old vehicle.
- Dan
All my other vehicles have Internal regulators, 94 Tbird, 94 SC, 95 Tbird, 99 Blazer, 06 TrailBlazer, Im used to working on Fuel Injected computer controlled vehicles .. this 73 Ford is my only old vehicle.
- Dan
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I saw a couple on Ebay, Im going to try my local junkyard and if they dont have one, Ebay does for sure.
Just to update ..
I got around to re-wiring the alternator wiring harness, got everything back together .. then I went to test if the Ammeter was still working even with the fried circuit board.
I used a couple alligator clips to attach to the two leads on the gauge cluster plug, and bypassed the circuit board which is fried and hooked up the other end to the posts on the back of the Ammeter.
I dont know exactly how much it is supposed to move, but it moves a tiny bit to the right when it is on and charging at 14.5 Volts.
When I first start the truck, the gauge goes to the left a little. Other than that, I bypassed the Voltage Regulator and hooked the Power to the Field, and it was charging at about 17 Volts but the Ammeter didnt move all that far over to the right side. It just sort of stays in the middle, and a little tiny bit to the right when it is on and charging normally. Moves about 1/4" over to the left when cranking and engine off.
Is it possible that the Shunt wire isnt giving it enough resistance ?? (although I dont see why it should have any since it connects the Alternator to the Starter Solenoid ) Or that the Gauge itself isnt working properly ?
- Dan
Just to update ..
I got around to re-wiring the alternator wiring harness, got everything back together .. then I went to test if the Ammeter was still working even with the fried circuit board.
I used a couple alligator clips to attach to the two leads on the gauge cluster plug, and bypassed the circuit board which is fried and hooked up the other end to the posts on the back of the Ammeter.
I dont know exactly how much it is supposed to move, but it moves a tiny bit to the right when it is on and charging at 14.5 Volts.
When I first start the truck, the gauge goes to the left a little. Other than that, I bypassed the Voltage Regulator and hooked the Power to the Field, and it was charging at about 17 Volts but the Ammeter didnt move all that far over to the right side. It just sort of stays in the middle, and a little tiny bit to the right when it is on and charging normally. Moves about 1/4" over to the left when cranking and engine off.
Is it possible that the Shunt wire isnt giving it enough resistance ?? (although I dont see why it should have any since it connects the Alternator to the Starter Solenoid ) Or that the Gauge itself isnt working properly ?
- Dan
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I checked the wires for resistance.
There is 0.1 ohms in the wires to and from the ammeter.
The Ammeter has 0.3 ohms resistance between the two posts on the back.
All other wires, including battery cables have 0.1 ohms resistance.
Not a whole lot, the most resistance is in the Ammeter itself. How much resistance should it have normally ?
- Dan
There is 0.1 ohms in the wires to and from the ammeter.
The Ammeter has 0.3 ohms resistance between the two posts on the back.
All other wires, including battery cables have 0.1 ohms resistance.
Not a whole lot, the most resistance is in the Ammeter itself. How much resistance should it have normally ?
- Dan
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
The amount the needle moves is condusive to how low the battery is.
Battery low, needle moves to right further.
After starting engine with a fully charged battery you would be lucky to see half a needle width in movement
Lots these gauges actually "go dead"
Or In most cases of a gauge that works.... the needle very rarely moves but,
Put the heater,wiper, and headlights on and watch that needle
Note:
After numerous years of being on FTE it has been established that I am one of the very few that have a working ammeter in their truck.
Many found that so fascinating,that I made a video so they could see what one looks like. It's accessed thru my web site
Battery low, needle moves to right further.
After starting engine with a fully charged battery you would be lucky to see half a needle width in movement
Lots these gauges actually "go dead"
Or In most cases of a gauge that works.... the needle very rarely moves but,
Put the heater,wiper, and headlights on and watch that needle
Note:
After numerous years of being on FTE it has been established that I am one of the very few that have a working ammeter in their truck.
Many found that so fascinating,that I made a video so they could see what one looks like. It's accessed thru my web site
Last edited by Mil1ion; May 26, 2006 at 09:35 AM.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Where is the link to the gauge on your site ?? I looked but I couldnt find anything specific.
My needle moves to the left when the Truck is started, I havent tried it with all of the accessories on, just the Lights and it moves a little more to the right than when it is normally charging but barely noticeable unless you're really looking hard. So as far as I can tell, the gauge still works but it may have lost its sensativity after re-wiring my alternator.
I always have a completely charged battery, its an Optima Red top that I use in my daily driver.
- Dan
My needle moves to the left when the Truck is started, I havent tried it with all of the accessories on, just the Lights and it moves a little more to the right than when it is normally charging but barely noticeable unless you're really looking hard. So as far as I can tell, the gauge still works but it may have lost its sensativity after re-wiring my alternator.
I always have a completely charged battery, its an Optima Red top that I use in my daily driver.
- Dan
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,043
Likes: 4
Before this list/web page started, the only time I ever saw a Ford ammeter move was in the movie Close Encounters. Back when this was just an e-mail list, I actually started the first discussion about it. I actually added wire between the two splices for the ammeter to increase the shunt resistance.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
DD,
Go to this page
http://mil1ion.clubfte.com/index.html
and scroll 1/2 way down until you see the hyperlinks to my videos.
They are in Zip Files so you will need Winzip to unzip them.
Winzip can be found on the Tucows web page.
Go to this page
http://mil1ion.clubfte.com/index.html
and scroll 1/2 way down until you see the hyperlinks to my videos.
They are in Zip Files so you will need Winzip to unzip them.
Winzip can be found on the Tucows web page.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Trevin
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
Sep 26, 2020 07:43 PM
FrankGRUN
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
3
Jun 26, 2016 12:53 PM
FrankGRUN
Electrical Systems/Wiring
0
Jun 25, 2016 01:01 PM
