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Old May 23, 2006 | 04:45 PM
  #1  
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stuck bleeder screws

The bleeder screws on the rear drums of my my 77 F250 are stuck. I haven't started to really pull on them since the last time I did that I broke one off. Other than using some penetrating oil, what can I do? I'm not going to use heat, since I don't think the brake fluid would react well. And it's probably bad for the rubber parts in the wheel cylender.

I know new wheel cylenders are cheap if I wreck these ones, but I'd really prefer not need them.

Any tricks?
 
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Old May 23, 2006 | 04:53 PM
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Put a six point socket all the way over the bleeder screw.
then give the ratchet a wack with a hammer to jar the bleeder screw loose.
 
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Old May 23, 2006 | 06:04 PM
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soak with pb blaster every 2-3 times a day for a week before trying to loosen them. since i have started doing this, i have not broken one in 15 years. also, when you get them loose, take them out and use never-sieze on the threads. you will never have to worry about them again.
 
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Old May 23, 2006 | 11:48 PM
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The above 2 are both good advices -- use both.

But if it's really-really stuck and breakes off, you can use a screw extractor on it. Of course, after that the only option is a new wheel cylinder.
 
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Old May 25, 2006 | 08:17 AM
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I agree with TJC, exactly what I do.
 
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Old May 25, 2006 | 09:46 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by seventyseven250
Other than using some penetrating oil, what can I do?...... Any tricks?
Put a six point socket all the way over the bleeder screw. then give the ratchet a wack with a hammer to jar the bleeder screw loose. Using a brake tool wrench or special socket which grabs does not grab the bleeder nut at its edges.

As a last resort, use a set of vice grips snuggle set over the bleeder nut, and giving it a wack.
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; May 25, 2006 at 09:49 AM.
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Old May 25, 2006 | 06:30 PM
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Take a hammer and give the bleeder 2 hard hits squarely on the top (like you are trying to drive it into the cylinder) then use a 1/4" rachet or breaker bar to remove. If that doesn't do it, use heat it will not affect anything adversly as long as you dont hold it in 1 spot. After it is warm use some wax off a ring for a toilet, trust me it will make it easy to turn. DO NOT USE NEVER SIEZE. It is petroleum based, a big no no for brake systems.
 
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Old May 25, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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One simple way to prevent siezing up (or at least reduce the chance) is to bleed them a little every other year or so.
 
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Old May 27, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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if you're gonna go through all the effort to soak the bleaders,wait, try an extracter, hammer and that it's 100 times easier and quicker to replce the cylinders.
 
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Old May 27, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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It's 100 times cheaper to not have to replace them if they aren't leaking tho. It is never said in any owner's manual, but every 30K miles you should completely flush your brake system out. If you do, this will keep them free for life.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 01:47 AM
  #11  
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If the bleeders are that rusted I dont think they will come out in one piece unless you heat them up.If you can find a connection in the brake system that will come apart to get the brake fluid out then you can heat up the fittings a lot better and have a good shot at removing them. These are small fittings and a pair of vise grips come in real handy as the corners on the rusted fittings round off fairly quickly.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Replace the cylinders. If the screws are that stuck the insides will be rusted.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:09 AM
  #13  
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Since the truck stops well right now, I haven't tried the heat, or the hammer, or anything else. I agree that it's pretty easy to just replace the cylenders, but I usually prefer to reuse when possible.

I will say that if I have to drain the line like missasauga suggested, then I'm 90% of the way to replacement.

Also, I'm sure arugathor is correct that regular maintenence would have prevented this. Unfortunatley I'm often dealing with the results of neglect be the previous owner.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I'll post up with the result.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:37 AM
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I had one that wouldn't come loose and with a six point socket I tried tightening and loosening it alternately and after a couple of times it seemed like it loosened or was the socket slipping? Lo and behold it loosened up.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 09:46 AM
  #15  
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hit it with PB Blaster a few times over a week. if they won't come out, they aren't going too, just put in new cylinders.
 
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