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Fella's, Hey well I got my truck torn apart and removed three leafs for the front haven't done the back yet. My problem is before I tore into it I took measurments of both sides...measuring from the top of the fender well to the ground...here's the thing. The driver side was 30" and the passenger side was 27"3/4. As I began my tear down I looked and the leaf's were the same on both sides, both in good condition, the shackles were good, hangers fine. So, I preceeded to remove the leafs, three in the same order on both sides. Putting the wheels back on and putting her to the ground WOW! this is my delema...Measurments are now driverside, 27'1/2 and passengerside 25" 3/4 and the passenger side wheel is centered is the wheel well and the driverside is not. I have not replaced the leafs to center yet, and I not extended the drag link...What's my deal...I've still got plenty of clearence, about 1 1/2 inch to the rubber. Thanks fella's, you can see the truck in my gallery under suspention and fenders
Wow???? I'm stumped? I just did the reverse springs on my front. I noticed the rear hanger on mine was coming loose and replaced the rivots with bolts. It's hard to see what happening without getting under and looking. Are you sure the center pin went into to the axle properly? That would explain why one side is centered and the other not. The axle can shift easily if the pin is not properly in the hole. I know sometimes it's hard to align up. To raise the passenger side, you can always add one of the those leafs. It will bring it up about 1/2" for each leaf added. The front hangers need to be able to swing. When you tightened the pin and bolt, did you make it snug and back it off 1/3 turn, then put the cotter pin in. I'm just guessing here, but check to see if both hangers are in the same position...
Those are good ideas, The center bolt on the passenger side was spinning when I was tightening it down, I't may have come out I'll puul the wheel this Am and get back to you, I also, didn't back off a 1/3 turn like you mentioned...Ill get on it this am and let you know...Thanks
Low, I usually remove the original center bolt on the leafs because they are either rusted or beat up. I put a 5/16" Stainless allen bolt in with a nylon lock washer. That way you can torque them up. If you keep yours, use a pair of vise grips to hold the one end of the bolt while you tighten the other.
lower2 That's a good idea, I was using a vice to tighten it up, but I'm going to replace them. I've in rain delay right now, the bummers of having no shop...The more I look at it the more I think the bolt is toast and it didn't get seated right...I'll post when I get it pulled off,
Just picked up a used 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 and was wondering if anyone else noticed the rearend on theirs being offset a little to one side? It's not much. In fact, it's barely noticable until you put a tape measure to it. Mine is offset 1/4in to the right measured from the frame to the top inside corner of the tire. The truck shows no visible signs (other than this) of having been in an accident, and everything looks good and it drives straight down the road. I know it doesn't mean much but Carfax reports no accidents as well, which I tend to believe since it's the original bed.
I'm wondering if the previous owner might've tagged something hard enough to push it over or if it simply came from the factory like this? It's hard to tell.
That's the way it came from the factory. If the previous owner damaged it, you'd definitely be able to see something bent on the leaf springs brackets or even U bolts connecting it together. It would be damaged at the weakest link of the rear end, which is not the rear end housing itself. If it were also damaged it would effect the ride particularly going in a straight line on the freeway. I wouldn't be concerned.
Low54, sounds like a weak main spring to me - I would take the entire spring package to a local spring shop and have them look at the springs. My guess is that they will want to re-arch both main springs for you.
They can also make up a custom package to lower it as you wish - likely for less money than buying a kit from a supplier.
Measure something other than sheetmetal to determine if the springs are different. The sheetmetal may not be on correct. Try measuring the frame, the running board brackets, or the front frame horns. That would eliminate adding in a bad cab mount to the measurements..
Low54, To expand on what Truckfarmer had suggested...also look at the front valance rubber cushions that are located under the radiator surround. It could be that one side is worn out and that the fender measures lower that the other due to that.
Also measure the four corners of the frame (front and rear) to see if the frame isnt slightly twisted from all those years of engine torque...I saw frame torque alot on the Jeeps I used to mess with.
good luck, Ed
I agree, the entire front sheetmetal all hangs from the radiator support and is very flexible and easily misalligned so is not a good measurement reference. Also if you are working outside, how level is the surface you are working from? Even a small twist in the pavement will be magnified by the suspension and ladder frame. If it concerns you, swap every other spring leaf side for side to reduce difference in sag. Did you replace the spring eye and shackle bushings while the springs were out? Worn bushings can throw everything out of whack as well.
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