brake line question
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brake line question
yes i need to replace the brakelines on my 72 f100 swb do i have to use metal lines? or can i use the HOLLEY brand product "earls plumbing" product like there lines instead of hard lines it says they can w/ stand up to 2000 psi? j/w b/c thatd be a heck a lot easier that trying not to break the metal ones puttin them ini thanks JOHN
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Iowa
You sure can, but it's going to cost a heck of a lot more than replacing your steel lines.
You can get new steel lines at most any auto parts store, and they bend fairly easily, as long as you use a hand-held tubing bender, or even an old alternator pulley as a guide. You have to support the sides of the tubing as it bends or it will want to break. I think a chunk of steel line only costs six dollars or so.
Good luck and we're here to help!
You can get new steel lines at most any auto parts store, and they bend fairly easily, as long as you use a hand-held tubing bender, or even an old alternator pulley as a guide. You have to support the sides of the tubing as it bends or it will want to break. I think a chunk of steel line only costs six dollars or so.
Good luck and we're here to help!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,988
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From: Travelers Rest SC
I bought a brake tubing flare tool (make sure it's for brake tubing) and a cheap little hand held bender. I buy the tubing by the roll, and fittings as needed. I've used this set-up on half a dozen trucks without trouble. I try to use the original tube as a guide for shaping so it will look factory. Unless they look new, I ALWAYS re-plumb the entire brake system on any old truck I drag home! Had one fail once....
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Coal country
John, this is one of those cases where the manufacturer's original product actually means something of value.
They use steel lines for good reasons.
Notice that NO vehicle - military, civilian, wheel, tracked or rotor driven - uses flexible hydraulic brake lines, except where necessary for movement.
There are a number of reasons for this.
Long flexible hydraulic lines flex just under pressure, with unpredictable pressure variations at the terminus of the line - making for potentially unsafe operator reactions.
The flex points also weaken the line internally, leading to premature and catastrophic line failure under load.
Flexing makes the lines rub at contact points and weaken them externally - leading to unpredictable premature failure.
Add this characteristic to a moving vehicle subject to bounces, bumps and general movement, the safe life expectancy of flexible hydraulic lines is quite short.
Those are ones I recall at the moment.
They use steel lines for good reasons.
Notice that NO vehicle - military, civilian, wheel, tracked or rotor driven - uses flexible hydraulic brake lines, except where necessary for movement.
There are a number of reasons for this.
Long flexible hydraulic lines flex just under pressure, with unpredictable pressure variations at the terminus of the line - making for potentially unsafe operator reactions.
The flex points also weaken the line internally, leading to premature and catastrophic line failure under load.
Flexing makes the lines rub at contact points and weaken them externally - leading to unpredictable premature failure.
Add this characteristic to a moving vehicle subject to bounces, bumps and general movement, the safe life expectancy of flexible hydraulic lines is quite short.
Those are ones I recall at the moment.
Last edited by banjopicker66; May 21, 2006 at 01:12 PM.
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John, I have NOT used this yet, but as soon as I get my eye problem straightened out where I can bring my '66 F-600 boom truck home, I am going to order some and replace all the lines on the truck.
It seems to be just what is needed. However, I cannot recommend it yet because I have not tried it out.
I was always a fan of copper lines on my old Jeep, because I never had one fail. The steel lines I replaced them with would either rust out, or break if a limb or root snagged them. The copper ones would just kink and stay together.
But, I would never use copper in a modern car with modern brake pressures.
This seems to be the answer. If anyone has any experience with it, let us know.
http://www.fedhillusa.com/brakelinehome.html
J.
It seems to be just what is needed. However, I cannot recommend it yet because I have not tried it out.
I was always a fan of copper lines on my old Jeep, because I never had one fail. The steel lines I replaced them with would either rust out, or break if a limb or root snagged them. The copper ones would just kink and stay together.
But, I would never use copper in a modern car with modern brake pressures.
This seems to be the answer. If anyone has any experience with it, let us know.
http://www.fedhillusa.com/brakelinehome.html
J.
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Get a good bender and a flaring tool that will make double flares. The small brake line is easy to bend (correctly) and install. I re-did the whole system on my '68 a few years back and had a lot more fun with that than I did replacing the transmission cooler lines.
Dan
Dan
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Shallotte, NC
Dan, did you duplicate the loops in the lines from the master cylinder to the distribution block?. If so, what did you use to get the correct size loop? I'm fixing to put a booster on my truck, and want to have slightly longer lines since the m/c will be further away from the firewall. Thanks for any help you or anyone else can provide.
Gator
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Brett Foote
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From: The Big, Oregon
Guys, brake systems are engineered to 3000psi, and boosted systems can spike that high whether new or old.
If you ever get into a major wreck and they find out you have a non-DOT approved brake system, you probably will be found to be at fault, and insurance sure won't pay for it.
Steel brake lines aren't hard to do, that used to be my favorite thing when I was working in shops.
Not to mention that a system of all flex lines will make the pedal incredibly spongy, and very vague.
If you ever get into a major wreck and they find out you have a non-DOT approved brake system, you probably will be found to be at fault, and insurance sure won't pay for it.
Steel brake lines aren't hard to do, that used to be my favorite thing when I was working in shops.
Not to mention that a system of all flex lines will make the pedal incredibly spongy, and very vague.
Last edited by Ford_Six; Aug 28, 2006 at 05:25 PM.
Senior User
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I put the loops in both lines at the MC. Best I remember, I did them by hand. There's nothing really special about the radius of the loops, I just made them about 4-5 inches in diameter. That was easy enough to do without kinking the lines. All the other bends I made with the bender. And again, I had a cheap one and a good one. The cheap one I threw away after screwing up some tranny lines. The good one was worth the few extra bucks.
Dan
Dan
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go to summit racing
go to summit racing and get thier 3/16 stainless steel line it come's in 20' roll get two you'll need two and get a bender and double flare tool and a tubing cutter they also have the nut's you'll need as well get two pack's of each and just take off your line's and carefully measure and bend copying your old line's but do leave extra line on both end's and don't flare them until after you get line's bent that is what i did on my 69' 390 4bbl!!!
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Shallotte, NC
I don't have old lines in that area to copy, but I do have a salvage yard that has a few trucks of this vintage. I guess I'll just go and measure, and find a pulley the right size.
Thanks for the responses.
Gator
Thanks for the responses.
Gator