what i want ask is are there any performance spark plugs out there that do what they say and still run the engine without fowling up. i was warned about the bosch platnums are there others to avoid and are any really good ones i can use? right now i have just the autolite 45's. accel has a few that have a V or a U groove. are performance plug even worth it?

 

I don't know if you would call them a "performance" plug, but I've had good service with NGK's.

 

What were you warned to watch out for with Bosch P/T Plugs, and by whom?
I'm curious to know.

FBp

 

I have a hard time thinking that any of these "fancy" plugs are worth the money? 2-3-4 electrodes? WHy, you only need one to emit a spark. Only ONE will fire at a time.

A buddy did a "true" test of plugs years back. He bought "new" then Split fires , a set of Motorcrafts and maybe Autolite?(can't remember since it was like 15 yrs ago).

At the dragstrip he made a pass using the existing plugs and then passes with each other new set. NONE proved to add any power or time/speed changes over the existing used plugs. Hmmmm, makes you wonder......as long as your plugs are not completely fouled, they are doing their job and that's all you need.

 

Frieghtrain,

I agree, it's just Platnum Tips last 100,000 trouble free miles in an EFI type system or a well tuned, properly spec'd carbureted engine with a good electronic ignition system like a Dura Spark with the blue band ECM. . . . . Or so it would seem based on my experiences anyway.

You're absolutely right the correct range & resistance is far more important than brand or the Box they came in. . . . . IMHO

FBp

 

the spark plugs also have to gapped out the right amount too. Too much gap or too little will hurt performance. sending more voltage to the coil will allow you to gap your spark plugs out more and still fire good and produce more power.

 

Out of curiosity I ran Split Fires in my van some time back, didn't notice a difference in economy or performance at all.

 

i was told that the bosch platnums didn't reach a hot enoght temp to clean themselves or something like that.

 

northey, think about that for a second. . . . .

If the combustion in a cylinder is "right" what would make a plug need cleaning? If the plug is fouling something else is wrong, too much contamination from something like oil, or excess fuel, or the wrong heat range, problems with the Ign System, bad plug wires and so on.

What's more temp of the plug is moot. Temp of the spark itself is what matters. Time or the duration & heat of the arc are the key to combustion & performance.

It is true enough Platnum plugs do not errode away like mild steel plugs. That's why they get incredible mileage. But I think you'll find it's because Platnum is more durable than mild steel. In fact it's why platnum is what is used in catalytic converters. The resistance to errosion is why.

I think somebody is pulling your chain on this one. You can tell them I said so too. They don't have a clue what they are talking about!

Bosch has been making spark plugs for a long time and I will tell you they are as good as any and better than some. Again, correct heat range, material electrodes are made of plus value & duration of current that makes the actual arc across the electrodes is what determines how well the plug works.

IOW, a good ignition system such as a Dura Spark Breakerless system, using magnetic supression, resistor type wires, a high output variable voltage coil or coil pack, and a good platnum tip plug is hard to beat for a street vehicle these days. . . .IMHO


FBp

 

I have seen the tiny platinum rod drop and bridge the gap on a Bosch platinum plug. Major missfire naturally. Now Bosch makes and markets what is normally the cheapest plug on the market, the Bosch Super. This is a plain old copper core plug that is as durable as anything in its class if not a bit more. I have been laughed at for putting Supers in both a 390 that I rebuilt and my current 300 six. Every time I had a performance complaint my friend at work has said its those darn cheap plugs. Well the truth is the Supers were never the trouble.

Frankly I dont believe in ANY certain brand of plug performs much differently than the other so to me its all about price. If it will create a spark and is the correct heat range then it should do the job weather its AC, Motorcraft, Champion, Bosch, or NGK.

I hear people say all the time that they wouldnt run a champion in anything. I can't figure out why. They do fine in any properly running engine I screw them into. The key is PROPERLY running. Many of these stories are generated by Johnny Jackleg with his poorly tuned engine causing it to eat up plugs no matter what the brand. Its whatever unlucky brand that he happens to screw in that will get the bad wrap at the parts shack.

I believe you can get a superior plug mostly in the form of service life. I think the Irridiums out now are good for 100K or so. Of course theres a good old Capatilist premium on this luxury at about $13 a pop. There are many claims and theories as far as power gains and better efficiency resulting from a more complete combution process generated from a large fire kernel created by say a 4 prong plug.

I am no rocket scientist so I say keep it simple. It doesent take as much modern crapola to make a gasoline engine run well as many people today think or are willing to WASTE their $$ on. I think the greats of racing in its true stock car form of the 50's-70's, before whimpy Nitrous and"tuners" were commonplace used mainly Champion and AC stock plugs. Probably were more worried about heat range then anything back then.

 

well the whole reason i was asking is because i have the good breakerless ignition system with 8mm wires and a high out-put coil and was seeing if a different spark plug would make the difference between running good and running great.

 

northey,
I have the same digital ign sys set up & I run Autolite Platnums 100,000+ mi. as I said.

That's about 5.5- 6.5 years depending on whichever vehicle. I've got to look at the calendar & speedometer to remember to change them. They don't change or quit.

They don't run any better than anything else, they just run well longer. That's good with me. I think the kast set cost me like $28 or $30, but that kind of $$$ every 5 yrs is nothing compared to the $20-$25 every 12,000 for standard plugs w/ points & cond.

You can do the math if you like, but it's safe to say the savings are substantial on the families 5 vehicles, ya know?

FBp