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Stutter and missing V-10

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Old May 18, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #1  
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Stutter and missing V-10

Ok I have dont a bunch of searching and it sounds like time and engine compartment cleaning has messed up at least one or two COP's. Or perhaps IAC. At any rate, my 00' F250 has stumbled before when idling and I always attributed it to cheap gas or something. Well just overnight it has increased to a missing upon light acceleration. And on the way home I got the engine light.

My dealer wants 180 just to hook it up and take a look. In the opinion of Owners with EXPERIENCE in this would you get a OBD and take a look yourself, take it to the dealer (that hasnt been great to work with in the past), get a coil and start troubleshooting, or what?

I have plenty of mechanical ability and tools, I have the money but would rather spend it in the way that will benifit me the most, not necessarily the quickest and easiest is my normal route.

Please advise.
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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spamy, take it down to your local autozone or advance auto parts, or your nearest auto parts store. they will test it for free. at least the first 2 will. then you have a better idea what to do from there. i am sure someone here will chime in shortly.. matt
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 04:52 PM
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I was thinking I saw OBDII code readers for $80-100 well worth the money in the long run. One $180 trip to the dealer and its paid for it's self.
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 04:59 PM
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I'm with 10strokin - get it read for free!!!!

Post back with the codes if you need to.

And welcome to FTE!
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 11:22 PM
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Mine (code reader) has more then payed for itself in its lifetime
$150 when I purchased in 2+ years ago
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 12:05 AM
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Tomorrow morning I plan on finding a ODBII at a local store. Ive always rinsed down my engine compartment. But this is the first time that I used a pressure washer. Obviously this was a bad idea.

Are there any tips on buying a code reader you guys can give me?

So autozone will test my coils when I figure which ones they may be? Ive also heard that aftermarket coils can be bought for around 60 each, anyone know if these taboo or good enough?
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 12:07 AM
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By the way, thanks for all the responses. Ive been to this site many times, but in the 6 years that Ive had my truck this is really the only problem that Ive had with it.

I guess its time to show it a little love for being so good to me.
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 12:24 AM
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Autozone will "test" your vehicle- actually they'll read the error codes for free. They won't test your individual coil packs. If the problem is a misfire, the code should tell you which cylinder.

Don't beat yourself up too much over washing the engine. I blast mine at the car wash. I do try to be a little careful around the COPs, but they do get wet. Of course, neither my truck nor engine get washed very often.
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 07:45 AM
  #9  
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If your washing the engine ,afterwards lots of compressed air to dry it off
I wash mine all the time,no problems.
Cheap scanners will not read misfire counters,and will only read them if they post a code .Which takes forever because the threshold level is extremely high.What most people don't understand is these newer engines misfire alot all the time (slightly but not detechable to us but are to the electronics) this why the high threshold within the pcm.

Rich

Rich
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 09:19 AM
  #10  
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Sounds like you have a wet plug.

Pull each COP and see if any are wet, if so, dry it off and see if it helps.

REPORT back!

Oh, and WELCOME to FTE!
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 01:10 PM
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If you get the error codes read and it specifies a misfire on a certian cylinder, if it is a COP there will be another corresponding code set for primary or secondary ignition open circut, I belive it's 0314????. Thats how I found my bad COP. I also spent $30 on ebay for a set of 10 new plug boots since I found carbon tracking on 5 of them.
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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PO310

10th cylinder. It would have to be one of the hardest to get to. If Im going to start back there Im going to go all the way and replace all the plugs and boots. Then start moving coils to see it the problem follows. Its only got 47000 miles on it, but they have mostly been all towing or at least hauling very heavy loads of concrete, dirt and gravel, whatever.

Question though, can I get the plugs that everyone here recomends at a store, or do I need to go to the dealer? Reason is, I want to do it tomorrow and Im not sure the dealer parts dept is open.

I didnt see any additional codes, but I still have to read the manual to this OBD to figure it all out. I just remembered my smog cert is due this month, I better get crackin.
 
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Old May 20, 2006 | 09:54 AM
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you should be able to find autolight plugs or motorcraft for you truck just about every where. use only those . find arts thread and others on changing the plugs which at your milage are near do. make sure you follow how they did them ,use a small amount of never seize as they say to use new boots on all of the plugs they don't cost that much and can cause a missfire if they let in water as you seem to have now.
use a torqe wrench and 2 step torqe them in . again fredvon4 added to a thread last night about this.
most guys have said about 1.5 to 2 hours total time and good luck.
ask more if you feel any problems .
 
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Old May 20, 2006 | 06:13 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys. New plugs and one new coil today. I looked at the MAF and some other things too. It all looks excellent and its only been one cycle so far but its running great.

Dealer 180 just to look

After 210 on my own, running great so far and I get to own a OBD now. Im a happy camper.

Oh yea, that #10 once I pulled it, it was rusty. Obviously water had been sitting in there.

Changing the plugs wasnt to bad either. One thing that made it much better was one plug socket that held real tight to remove them and one that didnt hold it very tight to put them back. It went smooth as silk in only about 1.5 hours.

Now to the other forum for some driveline help.
 
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Old May 20, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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I always use a plug socket with the rubber in it, but slippery with grease enough that it will not overcome the extensions lock trying to pull it off the plug once it's tight.

Did you use the rubber hose trick to get the plugs in there and started?
 
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