Great news Vern... Welcome to the oil all over the engine, smoking like hell, club. Many of us have been there... AX is right on the valve adjustment. With the valve in the close position TDC I adjust the valves in order of the firing order. (I use the distributor as an indicator.) With the valve loose, I tighten it down just to where I feel a little drag on the pushrod. That's known as zero lash. Then I tighten it about 1/8 to 1/4 turn more. Then go to the next set of rockers turning the crank. Hope this isn't confusing. If you do it correctly, you shouldn't have to go back and re-tighten. I always use sealant or silicone grease on my gaskets. I prefer the neoprene gaskets over the cork ones. Way to go....

 

I always adjusted hydraulic lifter CSBs while running hence the clips. While running back the nut off until it starts to clatter, tighten slowly until clattering just stops, tighten 1/4 turn more, done. That's the way the Chevy service manual called for adjusting them and AFAIK still does. Only takes 5 minutes a side, but if you don't block the oil hole it will throw oil everywhere. If you can't find the clips, a 1/2 a pipecleaner stuck in the hole and wrapped around the rocker will work. We would only adjust solid lifters with the engine shut off. My boss at the service station took a spare valve cover and cut the center of the top out of it over the rocker studs. He'd put the modded cover on, adjust the valves then replace with the regular cover to keep oil off the engine.

 

Congratulations Vern!!! I know that you were probably holding your breath and crossing your fingers when you fired it off. I'm glad it took care of the noise.

It sure is amazing the amount of smoke that a little oil can make, and the amount of smoke the ALOT of oil can make.

I work alone most of the time also. When buddies come around I tend to get side tracked and not get anything done (with the exception of consuming frosty beverages and embellishing old stories) I'd hate to see a video of myself working in the garage....its a wonder I ever get anything done.


Glad to hear you made some huge steps forward
Bobby

 

Ax,

Strangely enough I did use rubber gaskets this time and they leaked. I used cork the first time and no leak. I used a sealer on the rubber this time so I know it won't leak...but, they will no longer be reusable.

Vern

 

Ed, I did use a method to adjust the valves similar to what you suggested, however, I found that by the time I felt drag on the pushrod it was already depressing the lifter plunger. So, I just took out all the visible slack in the push rod just before it began depressing the lifter plunger and then tightened 1/4 turn. That turned out to be too loose so that's why I added the additional 1/4 turn.

Vern

 

There are rubber gaskets and there are rubber gaskets. The ones I use are made by Mr. Gasket for racers who remove their valve covers all the time. They are ~ 3/8" thick and soft, not just rubber repros of the cork ones. If you are using sheetmetal valve covers be sure the gasket surface is flat, overtightening will often dimple the metal down around the bolt holes. Be sure to use the special winged pressure spreader washers under the bolts as well.

 

Whenever I adjust the valves on a SBC I always use a vacuum gauge that way I can tell if they are adjusted down too far because the needle will begin to fall.

Rod 51F1

 

Vern, when I tighten the nut on the rocker, I use my thumb and index finger and roll the pushrod. It will spin freely without any pressure on it. As soon as the rocker is tightened slowly, you will immediately feels some pressure when the rocker touches the pushrod. That's zerolash. The other guys methods works also, but tend to be messy. Back in the days, I use to work for Ed Pink Racing Engines. We had expensive racing and boat engines that we didn't want to get oil all over, the method I mentioned is the one we used consistently. Mind you, there are other methods, but this one is easy and clean. I don't recall anyone ever having problems such as tightening too much or bending a pushrod, etc. As for the valve cover gasket, particularly the new ones, there isn't a lip to hold the gasket in place on the aluminum cover itself. If you torque the bolt, the gasket will slide out creating a leak. I recommend using a good silicone gasket sealer. Apply a bead on the valve cover, then put the gasket on the cover. I let it sit for a few hours so it hardens and dries. It won't move after that and should seal without silicone applied to the head and gasket surface.
Ed

 

Good deal Vern, I'm glad you goterdun! I was late seeing this thread. I'm getting old and my vision just isn't that great anymore I guess. I had the same prob with my 289 SBF.. Except that it went from running great one day to clacking loudly the next. A friend suggested pouring a quart of ATF in it. Within about two minutes, the noise was forever gone. But it sounds like you had some sort of lifter malfuntion. Have you came up with the actual cause of the noise? Jag

 

Well, I finished the cam break-in run today and idled her down. She is purring like a kitten.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions on the valve adjustments and valve cover gaskets. Obviously, I had some kind of lifter problem. How it occurred in an engine with only 2500 miles on a rebuild I don't know unless it was the sitting up for 10 years. You diehard Ford engine guys can now say it's because it was a Chevy.

I could tell immediately that the new lifters were considerably easier to compress than the old ones even after they were pumped up...so I have no idea what went wrong. The main thing is that the problem has been corrected thanks to all the help I got right here on FTE. I was reluctant to bring the matter up originally because of my engine choice and I appreciate that you guys did not rag on me too bad for that.

I figure I have lost three weeks on getting my truck finished with this problem but it feels pretty good to be able to get past it and get going again. Now, where's my Bebops catalog. I need some fenders.

Vern

 

great news!.. can you summarize the dizzie problem?

Sam

 

Vern, accomplishment feels good. For me, I feel good hearing that the engine is running good (even a Chevy one) LOL... Time to kick back and enjoy a ride in that truck and have a frosty beverage to celebrate.
Ed

 

Vern,

I am very glad that it is purring like a kitten. I know how frustrating it can be when you are chasing one of those elusive problems.

We are always here to help
Bobby

 

Sam, I was just having a heck of a time getting the dizzy in the right place. I think I was 180 degrees out a couple of times and once when it was in the right place I had the wires run wrong. It was my first experience with an HEI distributor so I think that played a role too. I'm just chalking it up to inexperience/stupidity on my part.

When I had the intake off it was very easy to tell where TDC was so that's why I had no problem the second time around. I still have a long way to go before I can take it for a ride except in the yard maybe but I feel like a weight has been lifted off my shoulders getting the engine to run right.

Vern

 

Well, it only purred for one day. I fired it up the next morning just to hear it purr again and the noise is back. Now I think it must be either a piston slap or wrist pin but I think it's too loud for a wrist pin. Whatever it is I think it is piston related. This is very frustrating and I'm think I'm about ready to either junk the engine or take it to a rebuilder. Either way it's coming out of there. The whole idea of using this engine to begin with was because I already had it and I hoped to save a few bucks. Instead it's costing me more...

I'm considering buying a rebuilt long block, a crate engine, or a good used one although my old truck seems hardly worth spending that much on. I checked with a salvage yard here yesterday and they have a 92 350 with low miles for $600. Is that about the going rate? I haven't bought an engine in years.

Vern