Is this 1955 F100 woth $1500? Please Help.
#16
05-17-2006, 12:16 PM
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Bob,
I think people are advising him to walk away because he first of all needs a daily driver, and this one will need quite a bit of work & more $$ invested before it will be a safe one. Being in Cali he could probably find one in better shape for a little more $$ and skip all of the work.
Just my take on it
Jeff
I think people are advising him to walk away because he first of all needs a daily driver, and this one will need quite a bit of work & more $$ invested before it will be a safe one. Being in Cali he could probably find one in better shape for a little more $$ and skip all of the work.
Just my take on it
Jeff
#17
05-17-2006, 03:02 PM
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#18
05-17-2006, 03:21 PM
I was out in CA a couple of years ago. I drove from San Fransico north to the Red Wood Forrest then south through San Jose, where I met with Ilay, and then on down through Los Angelos then out to the dessert to Sun City. I barely saw a car under 1980 at the oldest. I did see one unrestore '60 something Chrysler in SF, a '48-50 Ford panel in SJ Ilya told me about, a half dozen built street rods going to a show just south of SJ and a few rusty hulks in the dessert but other than these few examples, no other old metal. I thought we drove a fairly decent distance and should have been able to see more quality old iron. I didn't see anymore out there than I can see in an average summer month up here in the "Rust Belt" of the upper midwest. Where do you guys find all of the solid trucks?
#19
05-17-2006, 03:31 PM
Originally Posted by bobj49f2
I was out in CA a couple of years ago. I drove from San Fransico north to the Red Wood Forrest then south through San Jose, where I met with Ilay, and then on down through Los Angelos then out to the dessert to Sun City. I barely saw a car under 1980 at the oldest. I did see one unrestore '60 something Chrysler in SF, a '48-50 Ford panel in SJ Ilya told me about, a half dozen built street rods going to a show just south of SJ and a few rusty hulks in the dessert but other than these few examples, no other old metal. I thought we drove a fairly decent distance and should have been able to see more quality old iron. I didn't see anymore out there than I can see in an average summer month up here in the "Rust Belt" of the upper midwest. Where do you guys find all of the solid trucks?
#20
05-17-2006, 03:48 PM
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#21
05-17-2006, 04:16 PM
#23
05-19-2006, 11:36 PM
Well that's a major project truck for sure. Playing devil's advocate here since I've seen more than my share of aborted projects end up at the crusher because the builder way underestimated the costs and overestimated their abilities. Body work is the biggest money and time pit. Do you really have the skills and equipment necessary to do the extensive amount of repair that truck is going to require? You already said you don't have the money to farm it out, but even repair panels and/or used replacement panels are going to cost a few thousand dollars and a year or two of every spare minute work for an experienced amatuer bodyman. Do you have a place to store and work on it without being able to move it for several years? Have you ever tackled a build anywhere near this extensive before? Just from what I can see in the photos I'd say you will need to replace virtually every wear item just to make it safe for the road again. Be honest with yourself, do you have the desire and drive to devote several years and tens of thousands of dollars into this truck before it will ever again drive down the road under it's own power?
#24
05-20-2006, 01:44 AM
I agree with most of the others; if you need a driver RIGHT NOW, pass this one up. I used to sell new and used vehicles...here's some advice...
The first thing to remember is, whether you're the buyer or seller, you never know what you can get until you ask for it. This is true with everything, but what I mean here is never, ever EVER pay the asking price for a vehicle of any type! If he asks $1500, you offer $700, and be convincing about it. Sell the seller on the idea that you really believe that's what it's worth. If he doesn't pull a shotgun on you and say "Get the hell off my property", you're in business! He goes high, you go low; you meet somewhere in the middle. It's called bargaining. It always works sometimes; I've talked SEARS down before! A good salesperson will try to build value in their product before ever mentioning selling price. You should try to undermine that value before you talk money. You want to try to weaken the seller's confidence that he's asking a fair price. Whatever vehicle you eventually buy, put on a show for the seller when you look at it. Whether you know anything about cars and trucks or not, get down on all fours near one of the headlights and look down the body with one eye. Pop the hood and see if the fender bolts are all the same (as opposed to being mismatched, different colors, or have tool markings). If not, ask the seller when the vehicle was painted and why. If it wasn't painted, ask him if the fender was replaced and why. Was it wrecked? If the interior smells like cigarette smoke, act concerned about it, whether you are or not. Make little things like floor mats, maintenance records, owner's manual, tire wear, and worn upholstery sound slightly more important to you than they really are. Bring a refrigerator magnet with you and stick it all over the body. If you find a place where it doesn't stick, that might be bondo. Crawl under the floorpan and tap on it several times with your car keys checking for rust. F250Rob was dead on when he was talking about rust spots. Check all those places. If the stock motor has been replaced, check the frame to see if it's been cut up, and if it was done right. Check the motor mounts and cross members too. Start it up and rev it a few times. If it's an automatic, take it through all the gears, and please, don't buy a vehicle without driving it first! The whole time you're doing all this stuff, mumble incoherently to yourself with a serious look on your face, kinda like a doctor does when he's checking you out. Say things out loud to yourself like, "gonna have to replace that" and "...not going to be cheap to do that" and "hmmm". Act disappointed, as if to say "I'd be doing you a favor by paying your asking price!"--But don't EVER actually say that. You're looking for that fine line between seeming indifferent and interested, but don't ever be insulting! Basicly, you're trying to tear this vehicle apart with your eyes. Every little thing you find is another justification for your low offer. This process doesn't have to be confrontational either. Put on this little show with a cheerful voice and a smile on your face (except for the mumbling part, you want to look serious when you're doing that). This may seem crooked or unethical, but this is your hard-earned cash you're looking to spend! The goal is to keep as much of it as possible while still getting the vehicle you need! If you've ever bought a vehicle with a trade-in, chances are the "appraiser" (usually the used-lot manager) has put on at least part of this show for you. This is assuming, of course, you were there for the appraisal and not walking around the lot with the salesperson. If you don't know much about cars and trucks, it's also a good idea to have someone with you who does.
Another thing to remember is this: DO NOT fall in love with any 1 hunk of metal! You have to leave your emotions at home when car shopping. While we all here love our old trucks, economically speaking, most vehicles are just depreciating hunks of metal not much different than any other hunk of metal. It's sad but true, sentimental value is not measured in dollars and cents. If you DO happen to fall in love with one, DO NOT let the seller know, or that little act you just did will do no good! Your cover is blown and you have no bargaining chips left. I bought my '60 in Atlanta in running condition with moderate rust from a college kid asking $1700. I paid $760. I've found a lot more wrong with it since then, but it was still a lot better deal than the seller was originally offering.
The last thing to keep in mind is that a good deal is had when both the seller and buyer are equally unhappy! This principle applies in all but the "once in a lifetime" situations! Good luck, and have fun!
Jack
The first thing to remember is, whether you're the buyer or seller, you never know what you can get until you ask for it. This is true with everything, but what I mean here is never, ever EVER pay the asking price for a vehicle of any type! If he asks $1500, you offer $700, and be convincing about it. Sell the seller on the idea that you really believe that's what it's worth. If he doesn't pull a shotgun on you and say "Get the hell off my property", you're in business! He goes high, you go low; you meet somewhere in the middle. It's called bargaining. It always works sometimes; I've talked SEARS down before! A good salesperson will try to build value in their product before ever mentioning selling price. You should try to undermine that value before you talk money. You want to try to weaken the seller's confidence that he's asking a fair price. Whatever vehicle you eventually buy, put on a show for the seller when you look at it. Whether you know anything about cars and trucks or not, get down on all fours near one of the headlights and look down the body with one eye. Pop the hood and see if the fender bolts are all the same (as opposed to being mismatched, different colors, or have tool markings). If not, ask the seller when the vehicle was painted and why. If it wasn't painted, ask him if the fender was replaced and why. Was it wrecked? If the interior smells like cigarette smoke, act concerned about it, whether you are or not. Make little things like floor mats, maintenance records, owner's manual, tire wear, and worn upholstery sound slightly more important to you than they really are. Bring a refrigerator magnet with you and stick it all over the body. If you find a place where it doesn't stick, that might be bondo. Crawl under the floorpan and tap on it several times with your car keys checking for rust. F250Rob was dead on when he was talking about rust spots. Check all those places. If the stock motor has been replaced, check the frame to see if it's been cut up, and if it was done right. Check the motor mounts and cross members too. Start it up and rev it a few times. If it's an automatic, take it through all the gears, and please, don't buy a vehicle without driving it first! The whole time you're doing all this stuff, mumble incoherently to yourself with a serious look on your face, kinda like a doctor does when he's checking you out. Say things out loud to yourself like, "gonna have to replace that" and "...not going to be cheap to do that" and "hmmm". Act disappointed, as if to say "I'd be doing you a favor by paying your asking price!"--But don't EVER actually say that. You're looking for that fine line between seeming indifferent and interested, but don't ever be insulting! Basicly, you're trying to tear this vehicle apart with your eyes. Every little thing you find is another justification for your low offer. This process doesn't have to be confrontational either. Put on this little show with a cheerful voice and a smile on your face (except for the mumbling part, you want to look serious when you're doing that). This may seem crooked or unethical, but this is your hard-earned cash you're looking to spend! The goal is to keep as much of it as possible while still getting the vehicle you need! If you've ever bought a vehicle with a trade-in, chances are the "appraiser" (usually the used-lot manager) has put on at least part of this show for you. This is assuming, of course, you were there for the appraisal and not walking around the lot with the salesperson. If you don't know much about cars and trucks, it's also a good idea to have someone with you who does.
Another thing to remember is this: DO NOT fall in love with any 1 hunk of metal! You have to leave your emotions at home when car shopping. While we all here love our old trucks, economically speaking, most vehicles are just depreciating hunks of metal not much different than any other hunk of metal. It's sad but true, sentimental value is not measured in dollars and cents. If you DO happen to fall in love with one, DO NOT let the seller know, or that little act you just did will do no good! Your cover is blown and you have no bargaining chips left. I bought my '60 in Atlanta in running condition with moderate rust from a college kid asking $1700. I paid $760. I've found a lot more wrong with it since then, but it was still a lot better deal than the seller was originally offering.
The last thing to keep in mind is that a good deal is had when both the seller and buyer are equally unhappy! This principle applies in all but the "once in a lifetime" situations! Good luck, and have fun!
Jack
#25
05-20-2006, 02:49 AM
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#26
05-20-2006, 03:11 AM
I kid. I'm just a novice at working on trucks, but I do know a thing or 2 about buying and selling them. I'm glad I said something useful. I was hoping I wouldn't p!ss everybody off!
#27
05-20-2006, 07:04 AM
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Jack,
Maybe I'm just contankerous but when I've had people look at vehicles I've had for sale and they start mumbling about what needs replacement and undermining the value of the vehicle it just makes me more uncooperative. I tell them it an old truck for Pete's sake! Of course it needs a lot of work. While your advise may work on some people it can backfire. I have refused to sell to certain people in the past just based on their attitude when they look at the car/truck. If somebody offers me less than what I'm asking I'm usually willing to dicker a little especially if they are NOT undermining the value and complaining about the vehicle's condition. Once that starts I stand firm on the price...
Vern
Maybe I'm just contankerous but when I've had people look at vehicles I've had for sale and they start mumbling about what needs replacement and undermining the value of the vehicle it just makes me more uncooperative. I tell them it an old truck for Pete's sake! Of course it needs a lot of work. While your advise may work on some people it can backfire. I have refused to sell to certain people in the past just based on their attitude when they look at the car/truck. If somebody offers me less than what I'm asking I'm usually willing to dicker a little especially if they are NOT undermining the value and complaining about the vehicle's condition. Once that starts I stand firm on the price...
Vern
#28
05-20-2006, 08:56 AM
#29
05-20-2006, 09:08 AM
Hey Vern! Like I said right there in my post, it always works sometimes!
If the seller says "Get lost", so be it. At least you haven't lost any money. That's why you should never fall in love with 1 certain vehicle. Besides, when this is done in a friendly, uninsulting manner, it works more often than not...sometimes!
If the seller says "Get lost", so be it. At least you haven't lost any money. That's why you should never fall in love with 1 certain vehicle. Besides, when this is done in a friendly, uninsulting manner, it works more often than not...sometimes!
#30
05-20-2006, 09:29 AM
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