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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 08:35 AM
  #1  
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sauerf100s
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From: Ft. Walton Bch 32547
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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 11:02 PM
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I have a 1969 Ford F100 with a 390 and three on the tree. Its probably one of the nicest trucks around, but lately I have not been to happy with it. When I go to start it in the morning when its cold it does not want to start, which is understandable. So I tap the gas a little, crank it, and it fires right up, but then it wants to shut off so I figure that I ought to give it a little gas but when I do it takes barely any in and then it makes a sound like it has a hairball and coughs gas back up. So I let off the gas and then it wants to stall out. After going through this a few times I getit running and can take it up to 2000rpm without a problem. I put it in reverse attempt to back out of the driveway and the only way I can get it to move without stalling is by taking it past 2000rpm and then releasing the clutch. It moves a few feet then starts coughing and wants to stall out again. Finally I get it out of the driveway and go to put it in first and have the same problem. Once I get going I drive about a mile down the rode, press in the clutch and the engine stalls out So I attempt to start it up and it cranks and cranks and cranks and I tap the gas and after about five minutes of pushing the starter as far as it will go without flooding the engine I get a slight spark and I give it gas and just barely get it going and it is set for the rest of my drive. I got really tired of this really fast and decided to fix it. I found every cylendar to have 120psi except one which had ninety.(not too big of a problem right?) So I tare off the front cover and the timing is right on. I rebuild and adjust the carb and replace all points and wires and stuff. I brought the idle up from the recommended 650rpm to about 850rpm. The idle adjustment alone made a slight difference along with the recent warm weather but if it were cold and I dropped the idle I would have the same problem. Also if I drive my truck for maybe five miles with speeds ranging from 25 to 55 and I stop go into a store for five to ten minutes and come back out, try to start my truck I crank and crank and it finally starts. It is not overheated. I put on a new feulpump also. Once I get my truck going it runs absolutely perfect. So the only thing I could think of was a vaccum leak somewhere. Could someone please give me some suggestions on how to fix this problem and maybe some ideas on adjusting the carb.
thank you very much,
Brad:
 
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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 11:14 PM
  #3  
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Mil1ion
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engine

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 20-Apr-02 AT 00:15 AM (EST)]

How old is that carb that's on it?

It sounds like the choke fast/idle circuit is out of adjustment.

*Possibly* the whole carb needs re-builing

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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 01:08 AM
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engine

look into the carb to see if it is drooling gas into the intake after you shut the engine off. Also, does it smoke when it is giving you all these troubles, and if so, what color?

John
 
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 07:04 AM
  #5  
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engine

I am unsure if there is gas still flowing into the engine after it shuts of, but I will check it. I did completely rebuild the carb but since it did not fix the problem I bought a new one which did not fix the problem either. There is no smoke coming from the engine or tail pipes. if you have any more suggestions please post them.
thank you very much
brad
 
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 08:51 AM
  #6  
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engine

It runs rough until it warms up right? have you checked your plugs to see if they are fouled?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 01:35 PM
  #7  
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engine

The spark plugs are not fouled out and if they were bad wouldnt there be signs of it even after I get it warmed up?
thanks
brad
 
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 03:38 PM
  #8  
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From: virginia beach
engine

Double check timing. and your point gap. Sounds like thats your problem
 
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 04:45 PM
  #9  
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engine

Replace your points. Mine just did the exact same thing you are describing. Its not the only possible thing that could cause the problem but its only 3 bucks.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 04:48 PM
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Post engine

I think Dennis has the right idea. Next time it stalls out, run around and check to see if the choke plate is closed fully. Back off the choke a little if this is so.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 05:56 PM
  #11  
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Post engine

I am absolutely certain that my poblem is not elctrical because I just replaced all points and wires and stuff like that(and gapped them to specs and quadruple checked them). the choke plate is not closed when it stalls out. the choke only helps for the first time that i start and once it runs out of air and sounds like it is going to stall I open the choke a little and it still tries to stall. So I open even more and still it wants to stall. The only thing i can do is to open the choke all of the way and it sounds for a moment like it is going to run fine but then it starts to stall again. so I give it gas(not a whole lot) and it starts spitting it back up.
If you have any more suggestions please post them
thanks for all your replies,
brad
 
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