First, let me tell you all how much I enjoy reading your posts and how impressed I am with your knowledge. You guys don't seem to be afraid to jump in and try anything...but I'm not so sure of myself (although thanks to your forums, I did replace the IAC valve all by myself a few months ago -- I was so proud!! ). I've always been mechnically inclined but I know next to nothing about all the electronic stuff on my truck. I WANT TO LEARN THOUGH!!

For the past couple of years I've had a problem with my 99 Ranger running poorly - sometimes looses power on acceleration, idles rough, occasionally the "check engine" light comes on, and I'm getting crappy gas mileage. Taken it to 3 different mechanics to no avail. The problem is sporatic and everyone tells me if it's not doing it when in the shop, they can't diagnose it correctly. That's understandable. So I've decided I need to buy my own code scanner so I can diagnose the problem when it occurs. Then if it's something easy maybe I can find info here to fix it myself. Or at least I can tell a mechanic what the problem is so he can fix it.

So...what kind of code scanner do I get? I've read about OBD I, OBD II, display vs. manual - it's a little confusing to me. I found that Auto Zone has a plain "Ford Code Scanner" for $35. Would that do the trick or do I need something fancier? And will I be able to figure out how to work the dang thing once I get it?

I'm tired of being at the mercy of mechanics and I desperately want to learn how to do things on my own. But do I dare jump underneath my hood and give it the old college try? I guess the worst that could happen would be having to tow my truck to a mechanice if I pull a FUBAR.

Any advice (and encouragement) will be appreciated. BTW, today I plan to take the door panel off (thanks to a post I read) and see what's up with my automatic door lock not working. Wish me luck!!

Linda
"Newbie Ready to Jump into the Deep End"
99 Ford Ranger XLT

 

That Ford Code Scanner won't work on your truck. It's more for older cars, most likely with the EEC IV system. Get the OBD II scanner instead.

 

Yep, the OBDII is what you want.
A word of advice, understanding the concept of how your injection system works and what the sensors do is very important to proper diagnosis/repair of your vehichle. Most sensors are plug and play, and generally fairly easily removed, so I wouldn't worry about messing something up as long as you use caution. However, most of the time guessing at a problem will result in higher repair costs than if you had just taken it to a mechanic in the first place. I'm not trying to discourage you, if you enjoy wrenching then I strongly believe you have every right to do so, and forums like this are a great place to learn the fundamentals of how things work. I just don't want you to think that by grabbing a scanner and a code book and filling your pockets with wrenches, you're going to save massive amounts of money, IMO turning your own wrenches is as much for recreation as it is for economy (at least for me it's a blend). Whatever you decide, happy wrenching, and never be afraid to get your feet wet!

 

Thanks for the advice on the code scanner, I'll get the OBD II. And I'm willing to study to learn about the fuel injection system. As far as trying to save money by working on it myself, of course that's part of it. But more than that, I love to tinker around with things and I've got the time to do it. Besides, I've paid others to fix my problem and they haven't done it yet. That's not just spending money - that's wasting it. If I could fix it myself...what an ego boost that would be!!

Linda
"Newbie Ready to Jump into the Deep End"
99 Ford Ranger XLT

 

There are lots of books and websites that can help you understand and troubleshoot your vehicle. This forum is one. Another good site (IMHO) is

www.fordfuelinjection.com

One point in my self-education that helped me out the most is understanding that there's a difference between "sensors" and "actuators", and understanding what their functions are. I would only try to learn the components that are actually installed on your vehicle.

As for your driveablility problem, most of my experience is with the older OBD I systems, but I think you should be able to access "historical" items with a reader, and not just the current faults. In other words, if your check engine light was on before but not now, you should be able to still access the fault as long as you haven't gone through too many "drive cycles" (typically start-up, warm-up, wheel speed, shut-down) where the computer resets itself.

I'm still a learner, so I may be a little off with my facts, but good luck. The satisfaction is well worth the effort...plus the investment in tools, time, and the occasional mistake is still worth it, dollar-wise and satisfaction-wise.

 

You can most definetly dive right in there. Pretty much anything can be accomplished given the time, tools, money, and possibly a little help from the guys on here. Lots of stuff you can get ripped for at a mechanic can be fixed by yourself at a fraction of the cost.

Plus, face it, working on trucks is tons of fun!

RP
Zach

 

Oh wow! Thanks for the link on fuel injection. Looks like a great place for this Newbie to start...lots of valuable info to expand my little brain. I might become a backyard mechanic yet! And a female one at that (a whole new breed)!! : )

Can't wait for the fun to begin!

Linda
"Newbie Ready to Jump into the Deep End"
99 Ford Ranger XLT

 

I had a similar problem with my 98 3.0 a few years ago. But mine wouldn't start sometimes as well unless I gave it a little gas. The mechanics couldn't reproduce the problem in the shop,even though I left it with them for 3 days. They finally did a fuel system tune up and gave er back. Didn't fix the problem. Had to take it back. They said during that trip that they found a TSB for something, sorry can't recall it..something about a pin or rod that wasn't moving properly, and were able to fix it. Of course at the time I didn't know a thermostat from a fuel pump so they might have been ripping me off. That particular shop went downhill when the guy let his brother take over from him.

 

I just read something in one of the forums about NOT using Bosch plugs. That's what I've got in mine. Could my problem be that simple? Guess I'll buy some Motorcraft plugs and see. Anyone know about plug wires? I think I may have a Bosch wire set also.

Linda
Newbie Ready to Jump into the Deep End
99 Ford Ranger XLT

 

Atta gal Linda, you have the right "Can Do" attitude, so you'll likely do well.

Look through the "Technical Information" thread located atop this forum for information links to your trucks OBD system & how it works.

Once you get a grip on how it functions & it's principle isn't really very compicated, using the scan tool & this forum for hints for common problem areas & items, it'll make trouble shooting problems for what the computer says, "hurts", much quicker & easier.

If you want something more than a scanner to read & erase codes, consider a scan tool, it'll do that, plus read inputs from the computers sensors & out puts from the computer, to it's actuators & much more. Scan tools cost more, but then they do much more also & imo in the long run are worth the extra expense, if you're into vehicle repair for the long run.

There are many choices in scan tool types.
Some are very portable & easy to use, some hook up to a laptop & display more info on the screen, but are less portable.

So you'll have to do some research to determine which type & features you'll likely need & want to invest in.

I opted for a Actron CP9150 kit, that has OBD hook up cables for all my old & new vehicles & uses the CP9145 scan tool, which with the right cable will scan Ford, GM & Chrysler OBD-1, OBD-2 & the newer CAN protocall, from 1985 to present. I'm the worlds biggest dummy when it comes to computers & newer vehicles, but if I can successfully use this scan tool the frst time, anyone can!!!!!

Actron makes Fords factory equipt, so it doesn't have problems shaking hands with Fords computers.
So whatever brand you decide on, make sure it's friendly with your vehicles OBD system.

If you don't want to invest that kind of money, you could opt to take your ride by your favorite autoparts store, for a no cost computer trouble code scan, to see what the computer is unhappy with, then post ALL the code numbers found, here & we'll do our best to diagnose the problem.

Doing it this way saves money, but isn't as fast or convenent as having the scan tool monitor live feeds to & from the computer, so you can see what's hapening in real time & find & fix the problem quickly yourself.

So if you aren't ready to invest in that scan tool, run you ride by your favorite autoparts store for a computer scan & post all the codes found & we'll see what we can figure your next best course of action is.

BTW it would be helpful to know which engine, tranny you have & miles on your ride, where you are on scheduled maintenance, what repairs you've done & if your problems came about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event.

 

What motor do you have? I had a very similar problem on my 99 with the 4banger. It turned out to be the DPFE. Idk what it stands for but, it's the EGR control valve... If it's the same 2.5L motor as I have, I can probably give you a couple of places to check out.

 

i had similar problems with my 94 4.0 and after several shops checking it out and the scanners were running us around in circles we finally changer the ecu/computer and it fixed the problem. note i changer every sensor that the scanner said was bad and one that it didn't & 3 maf's later and it still ran very bad untill the computer chance so don't put all your faith in the scanners to tell you what is wrong.

 

Bosch plugs were the reason my 99 3.0L had an intermittent mis, and was running poorly. The previous owner had installed Bosch at 36K miles!!! I installed Motorcraft platinums, and that cured the problems!

 

You guys are all so helpful...I really appreciate you taking the time to give me assistance. Looks like the Actron CP9150 scanner runs about $350. That's a lot of money BUT would I rather give it to a mechanic or have something to show for it? Hummmm.....

My 99 Ranger XLT has a 4.0 liter engine with auto trans, 114,000 miles on it right now. I bought it new and was diligent about scheduled maintenance until my extended warranty ran out at 60,000 miles. I've tried to make sure the major things are up to date since then but I no longer take it to the dealership for scheduled maintenance and mechanics will only do what you tell them to do. I replaced spark plugs and wires at 100,000+ miles (put in those stupid Bosche plugs that will be coming back out soon). Also replaced the IAC and cleaned the MAF recently after reading some threads here with details on how to do that. My poor running problem was present before all that was done, probably started around 80,000 miles. So you can see I've been putting up with it for quite some time. At one point it wouldn't even run at all -- that's when I got under the hood and messed with the IAC and MAF, which got me going again and put me back at the point I was at 80,000 miles so that wasn't the entire solution.

Looks like a lot of Ford owers have a problem similar to mine. Maybe I should just buy something else? LOL

Linda
Newbie Ready to Jump into the Deep End
99 Ford Ranger XLT

 

unplug the MAF and see if runs better. when mine was acting up it would run good for about 2 mile and then it would get very sluggish with no get up and go, but if i unpluged the MAF it ran pretty good but not the way it should. every scanner kept pointion to the MAF so i tried 2 different MAF sensors from napa and one from ford and the scanner kept throwing a MAF code. so just for kicks i pulled a computer from a explorer with the same engine & tranny and my truck runs like new again. you my check with your local junk yard and see it they have a used one that you can try. if your computer is bad there is no telling what codes it will give you. but every symptom you mention yours is having is exacty what mine was doing.

good luck!