clutch?, alternator?, or ????
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Joined: May 2004
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clutch?, alternator?, or ????
hello everyone, i am a frequent reader of the site but this is my first post. let me start by saying i have a 2000 3.0L 5sp. i was driving on the highway when what i thought was the clutch slipping. i pulled over and my truck stalled. after a little work i got it started and everthing was fine except for the check engine light. a few miles down the road the same thing happened but this time it wouldnt start. i eventually got it to idle, it drove fine for a few miles and then the same thing happened. this repeated a couple of times. the final time it continued to idle(although it wanted to stall) but i decided to leave it as it seemed the clutch was slipping, or it was intermettenly losing power. i assume i can rule out the clutch as there is still good pressure. the only other thing i can think of is the alternator, but i am in no way an expert. any input would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 623
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From: Blytheville, AR
Have your codes pulled at your local AZ or something of that sort. Make sure they pull the codes for free. If they charge you for codes, tell them where they can go. Bring the codes back to us and we might be able to help you out.
Now, for my personal opinion....
After it is cranked.... Is the battery light still on? The battery light will be on with the key turned to the "ON" position and if it's not cranked. The light disappearing after being cranked would therefore eliminate a possible alternator problem. If you wish to test the Alternator even more.... Use a multimeter. With the engine cranked, you should be pushing slightly over ~14v.
Another thing to do...
Reset the computer. Disconnect the negative side of the battery for about 10 minutes or so to allow the computer to reset itself. That may clear a problem, but it will definitely clear the fault code, so make sure you get the codes pulled first. Resetting the computer is a very rare fix, but everything helps.
GL with your search...
Welcome to FTE!
Now, for my personal opinion....
After it is cranked.... Is the battery light still on? The battery light will be on with the key turned to the "ON" position and if it's not cranked. The light disappearing after being cranked would therefore eliminate a possible alternator problem. If you wish to test the Alternator even more.... Use a multimeter. With the engine cranked, you should be pushing slightly over ~14v.
Another thing to do...
Reset the computer. Disconnect the negative side of the battery for about 10 minutes or so to allow the computer to reset itself. That may clear a problem, but it will definitely clear the fault code, so make sure you get the codes pulled first. Resetting the computer is a very rare fix, but everything helps.
GL with your search...
Welcome to FTE!
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
If it's a MAF problem, it may just be dirty, so try removing it & cleaning it with a non residual electrical parts spray cleaner.
Some folks use throttle body spray cleaner.
Be careful not to touch or damage the wire grid. Look in the "Tehnical Info" thread located atop this forum, for details.
If the MAF is dirty, you need to find out why & remedy that too, lest it just get contaminated again. Look for things like a mis fitting or damaged air filter, over oiled cotton gauze, or foam air filter, if your using those kinds, a improperly buttoned up air box, disconnected tubing to or damaged air tube.
Let us know what you find.
Some folks use throttle body spray cleaner.
Be careful not to touch or damage the wire grid. Look in the "Tehnical Info" thread located atop this forum, for details.
If the MAF is dirty, you need to find out why & remedy that too, lest it just get contaminated again. Look for things like a mis fitting or damaged air filter, over oiled cotton gauze, or foam air filter, if your using those kinds, a improperly buttoned up air box, disconnected tubing to or damaged air tube.
Let us know what you find.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Sure seems hard to believe the MAF just suddenly bottomed out like that and caused the symptoms you describe. Unless the airbox popped off or something, which would create problems in the engine as well.
Read: K&N
RP
Zach
...over oiled cotton gauze...
RP
Zach
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,417
Likes: 3
From: Durham, NC
Your symptoms sounds like you have a tank of contaminated fuel, and/or your fuel filter has clogged.
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sorry for not responding, ive been without a computer for awhile. the truck was an hour away from me and i was short on time so i just had the dealer replace the MAF sensor. that obviously wasnt the problem as the same exact thing happened last night. this time i couldnt get it started at all. i was again about an hour from home so i just had it towed to the local ford dealer. still waiting on what they have to say
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the second dealer just reset a couple of things(not sure exactly what) and said it was fine. the same thing happened a few days later on the expressway again. i was able to get it to the first dealer who replaced the MAF sensor. now they are saying its the flex fuel sensor and want $900. does this seem right? was the MAF sensor bad to begin with?