O.k. I just got my grandfathers old truck, which has been sitting for the last 13 years now. I finally got it started late last night, and then a fusible link blew. I rerouted the alternator wires, and taped up a bad spot I found, but don't have a clue where to find a new fusible link (orange with 166A on it). I can find a lot of inline fuses that parts houses are calling fusible links but no link yet. I was told to just put a in line fuse in there, but am kinda scheptical about doing this. The second problem is that all the glass fuses in the fuse block inside the truck are missing. I can't find anywhere which ones go there. I tried the array I have and all of them were to long to fit. The third problem I have was when I was going to clean the jets I can't get the top off the carb. I removed four flathead screws and it is either stuck or I am missing something. It is the original motorcraft 2bl number on vin plate is D3TF-DE A 3E 1. I don't have a clue on what carb it is. I am assuming a 2100. I know this is a lot of issues, but any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hope this helps you

 

That helps some. Now I know what size fuses go in the truck.

 

If a fusible link blew, it's very important that you're positive of the source before installing a new fusible link, to avoid having the same problem occur. As far as taping up the bad spot, what was wrong in the first place? Was the wiring itself bad? When I see frayed insulation, I opt for replacing the bad section of wiring by soldering and shrink wrapping. I avoid crimp terminals under the hood.

To remove the top of the carburetor, in addition to removing the four screws, you must remove the air cleaner stud and free the choke plate linkage.

Be aware, though, that opening an old carburetor and simply cleaning out the jets is going to cause more problems. If the carburetor needs that kind of maintanence, you need to rebuild it, soak all of the parts, and thoroughly clean everything out with it apart. Opening it up just to spray down one item is only going to move things around. This will only create more problems, especially with the sensitive needle and seat nearby.

 

Also, the marking on your fusible link isn't 166A, its 16 GA. Thats 16 gauge, the size of the fusible link. Most parts stores have a selection of these fusible links in their electrical section. They come packaged like the inline fuses.

 

The tape was put on for a temporary fix due to the insulation was pulled off when someone took the old alternator off the truck. Mainly due to I wanted to get the truck running and there was nowhere to get any heatshrink at 2 am without driving 30 minutes to town. I will go back and heatshrink it, the wire itself looks good with no breaks.
I did miss the stud going through the top of the carb. I didn't realize it had to be removed. All of the choke is not hooked up, but that is another project. I have never tore into a carb off of a vehicle, only replaced the jets in my dirt bike. The truck ran about twenty minutes, then I shut it off. When I went to restart it the fusible link blew, then it was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. I have an inline filter before the carb, which looks clean so I am thinking that there might have been some old gas or trash in the carb that is now in one of the jets. I am a little nervous about getting to far into the carb, might see if I can find an old scrap one to tear down and see what I am getting into. This is all a little new to me being as the truck is 11 years older than me and I am not used to working on something that can be fixed with the normal hand tools and no computer. I was planning on soaking the jets when I removed them, or just taking the bowl off and flushing straight through to the catch pan.
The fusible link in the pic looks like the one that blew, only a heck of a lot cleaner. I went to the parts house on my way to work today and they only had 14Ga. I went ahead and got one in case I need it somewhere else and will try tomorrow to find the one I need somewhere else. Thanks for all the information.

 

alot of the fuseable links are hooked right to the battery side terminal of the starter solinoid or directly to the alternator. they look just like a piece of wire except that piece of wire is designed to melt before the entire harness. grab the wires and flex them around if the wire is extremly hard and brittle and the insilation seems real soft that may be the fuseable link.(sorry I cant describe it better) but really it just looks like a chunk of wire. if they are shot they will break when you bend them around.

 

O.k. just wanted to say thanks for the help. I found the correct fusible link, installed it, sealed the spot up on the old harness, routed the alternator harness correctly this time, and went ahead and rebuilt the carb. Now the old truck will sit there and idle correctly, and start with the key. I also got the fuses for the in the cab and the only one I couldn't find was the only one that was still in the truck. Again thanks for the help with this.

 

Thanks for the update, its nice to know how things work out.