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Intermittent wiper weirdness *HELP*

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Old May 15, 2006 | 09:08 PM
  #16  
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Fozzy you may want to socnider purchasing a CDrom version of the shop manual .
After going through it,I find it has a wealth of information regarding test procedures and schematics.

Unforunately I cannot place that much info on here without catching hell.
 
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Old May 15, 2006 | 09:48 PM
  #17  
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I hope you dont think your catching hell from me \__/
I am grateful for your help, I have them actually working now!!

I did what you said and messed with the leads coming from the motor. Now they park correctly, and when I turn the switch off they stay off!! I have the complete shop manual with the drawings and all, but sometimes I need a layman's perspective. The book can be a little too "technical". (With the hierarchieal trees of diagnosis etc etc).
Anyway, I will go through the drawing and verify the ground lead, then I will make a pigtail and directly ground the motor and switch.

Thank you very much!!

Now what do I do with this extra int. wiper setup
 
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:45 PM
  #18  
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Ship the extra to Dennis and he can check it out to see if it is OK. Maybe someone can use it.

Make sure all those wire connections are solid. I solder the crimps and use dielectric grease on the contacts after making sure all the little connector pressure spring parts and clips are good.
 
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Old May 16, 2006 | 08:41 AM
  #19  
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Quote by me:
Fozzy you may want to socnider
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Where the heck did that word come from ?

FTE Bafflegab ?
 
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Old May 16, 2006 | 08:57 AM
  #20  
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Webster's Dictionary:

(n);socnider (latin) - A brazilian sport in which a soccer ball is filled with nitro-glycerin and players are running for their lives to escape the explosive nature of the incoming ball. Players were frequently injured or maimed playing Socnider and the sport was banned during the socialist movement of the early 1900's.
 
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Old May 16, 2006 | 11:43 AM
  #21  
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Don't know if this helps or not, but I have tested these int. wiper switches in the 70's trucks, using as new as 1990 or 1991 switches with the one less wire. They work 100% except for the washer circuit, which can probably be made to work. If not, a 'squirt' button can be rigged up directly to the washer motor via a relay (for safety) and switch.
Make sure that black wire is grounded well, or intermittent timing will be very slow, always. I have had quite a few of these units, and they are built pretty tough... Go figure; they're made by Ford!

Mark
 
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Old May 16, 2006 | 03:07 PM
  #22  
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So the Black wire coming out of the motor IS the ground?

My shop book says the motor is grounded through the bracket bolts. ALso, the diagram shows a black/pink wire, yet I only have a solid black (no pink).

I do have the extended delay time problem now, but all else is in order.
 
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Old May 16, 2006 | 03:12 PM
  #23  
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How do your wires compare to the wire schematic in the link at the bottom of post #13
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 12:02 AM
  #24  
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I am talking about the wiper regulator ground wire, not the wiper MOTOR ground...

Mark
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 12:16 AM
  #25  
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Ok, Which one would that be? I have already grounded the case of the switch housing
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 12:27 AM
  #26  
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Yes, you got it then. It gounds the metal housing of the switch to chassis. Black wire attached to housing. They sometimes break off, or don't complete a ground path. You could try an additional ground from the housing to chassis, just as an additional check.
I solved a similar problem involving my '90 Club Wagon Super E350's computer ground wire. Wouldn't allow it to start because the ground had 'gone away' somehow.
Mark
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 12:47 AM
  #27  
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Post #13 shows the ground wires.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 10:50 AM
  #28  
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Four Years Later - 74 Intermittant Wiper Problem

Well, I have to admit, it's not a truck, but, in my 3 days of searching, this is the best thread I've found...
I have a 74 Ford LTD with intermittent wipers. They won't park or stop now. I tried the link to the schematic, but it's gone. I took the switch apart, cleaned it, seems ok, but, seems to me the top two 'rails' need to contact in order to shut off, so I did that with a screwdriver, just in case. Did not fix it. So I took the whole governor thingy off with the switch and I opened up the governor, but see nothing wrong. Not that there is much to see or fix. Only a relay in there, I stuck a piece of paper in there and cleaned the contacts, they seemed fine.
The governor is a D3AB 260 3 L 26
It also is stamped with 17C476
Maybe I have the same ground problem as mentioned in this thread ?
Was it the motor ground or governor ground that fixed it ?
I'd like to put the switch back together and do some ground testing too I guess.

I ran a jumper to the battery grn to the motor frame and they still won't stop. I have to assume it's the motor, so it's coming out.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 11:05 AM
  #29  
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The switch itself does need to be grounded, if it isn't the delay function doesn't work but the park function still does.
The park function is built into the wiper motor itself, sounds like you need to change the wiper motor.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 12:01 PM
  #30  
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I'll Try That

I did not see a gnd wire anywhere near the switch, I'll go look again, I assumed that the gnd was one of the several black wires to/from the switch. IIRC the whole thing is plastic. I tried a gnd wire to the motor, did not fix it.

Also, how would the delay function work if the ''ready-2-park' sensor in the motor was bad ? The delay needs to stop at the R2P position, then recharge via caps and resisitors and then switch on via the relay inside the governor I'd guess.
 
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