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Quick curiousty question. I'm switching to adjustables during this build and my question is when I set them up do I just do zero lash plus 3/4 of a turn? Also I'm getting everything from Napa just the old stock set up here's the part numbers I've come up with..rockers CEP 2301024 and push rods CEP 2154047 these rods seem to be the same length and outer dis and the stock non adjustables..getting them at checker slightly cheaper. So everything look good so far? Stock 352 nothing fancy
The pushrods should be about 9.157". I'd guess those are for solid lifters. They'd probably be too long. This is why I recommended Comp 7533-16 pushrods; I know those work.
As long as those rockers indicate "adjustable" or "solid lifter applications" in their book, then they'll work fine.
Zero lash +3/4 turn is what I've always done. It's finding zero lash that's kind of trickey. The cylinder you're adjusting needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke. The way I find zero lash, is lightly push the pushrod back and forth on the rocker as you're very slowly tightening the adjuster. If you can see it move, you're not there yet. Then spin it; when it gets harder to spin you're there. Then go your 3/4 turn.
Wow those rods seem short..I can't even find any that short listed at any auto parts store or in steve christ's boo..mine stock non adjustable rods measure at 9.62 are you sure about that length?
I have one of those pushrods in my 390. The other 15 are from DSC. The Comp ones are identical to the DSC ones as far as I can tell; the Comp ones are probably stronger material though. You wouldn't want 'em any longer. Look at the rockers and the reason for the difference will become obvious. Where the non-adjustable rocker has a cup for the ball end of the pushrod, the adjustable has a screw with a ball on it, to accept the cup end of the pushrod. This screw extends well below where the cup is on the non-adjustable.
Last edited by rusty70f100; May 13, 2006 at 12:41 PM.
You have to remember that the adjustables originally were for solid lifter cams. Solid lifters have the pushrod seat a little lower than hydraulic lifters.
Ok I can understand that but what I don't understand is why is my stock non adj longer? 9.62 vs the most common adj length being 9.325? shouldn't it be the reverse?
Your stock non-adjustables are longer because they don't have the adjuster screw. The comp ones are correct. I will never, ever buy anything from DSC ever again. Dennis's pushrods are junk, or atleast the "high-test" pushrods he sold me were and failed causing alot of damage to my engine and hassle. He doesn't back up anything he sells. The comp pushrods are like $20 more and have been going great in my engine for many miles.
Ok that makes sense I was wondering about that...so would the stock adj push rods at 9.325 work ok..they're a lot cheaper at about 50 a set and I can get them from a parts store. I noticed the comp ones are 9.1 etc and the crane ones are 9.2 etc any reason? Sorry this is all new to me.
You cannot use the stock adjustable pushrods, they were designed for solid lifters like rusty has said. I used Crane pushrods in my 428 and they are working fine.
According to my copy of Steve Christ's book the 9.325 rod was for a hyd cam 352 but has the cup end..was a hyd cammed FE ever factory produced with adj? this was very early..says 58
The solid lifter pushrods are 10.7" long, I see the hydraulic with adjustables at 9.35 listed in Christ's book for '58-'65 in models with the adjustable and hydraulic setup. So 66f100, you are correct, the 9.157 to 9.35 are all for the setup you are using. The adjustment will compensate for the length difference between the manufacturers.
The thing you need to remember is 3/4 of a turn tighter with the lifter filled. If by some
chance the lifters are collapsed it would be to tight. They should be filled, I always had the coffee can of oil to stand them in overnight to make sure.