I am going to do a frame swap. Can I take the whole front end of the truck off together? Inner and outer fenders, Grill and radiator support? Or should I take them apart piece by piece.

Also does it matter what kind of paint I use to repaint the truck? I am not sure what kind of paint is on there now and I don't want to totally stripe it down to bare metal. Will any paint stick?

Thanks Earl

 

I don't think the front will come off as one peice. I've had a few peices off and can't see how you would do it. It will be much easier to handle in small peices anyway.

As far as paint. I have found my local auto body and paint supply store to be a valuble source of info. They are always willing to answer my dumb questions. Just go in and tell the guy what you are trying to do and he will be able to point you in the right direction.

Mike

 

Ok thanks I think I will do that.
Earl

 

If you unbolt the radiator shell from the frame and the fenders (Inner and Outer) from the cab, I think you can yank the whole assembly in one shot.

--Mike

 

You can remove the front clip as a unit, and the cab as as unit. You do not have to take everything off the front clip to take it off the truck.

To remove the front clip:
Remove the front bumper.
Remove the two bolts holding the core support to the frame.
Remove the radiator from the core support, or remove the radiator hoses. I suggest you remove the radiator, as it will add a lot of weight to the front clip. The front clip is already unbalanced, and the radiator will make it very unwieldy.
Remove (unplug) the wiring harnessess where they go through the cab firewall.
Remove the alternator wiring harness, where it bolts onto the hot side of the starter solenoid.
Remove the bolts holding the inner fenders to the firewall.
Remove the bolts holding the front fender supports to the firewall.
Remove the bolts under the fenders, underneath the truck, where they attach to the cab.
I cannot remember if the hood hinges attach to the fender supports, or to the firewall itself. If they bolt to the firewall, you will need to remove them (and the hood). If they attach to the fender supports, you can leave the hood on.

Depending on your setup, you may need to remove A/C hoses, heater hose attachments, wiring clips, etc from the inner fenders, but there shouldn't be much.

Removing the cab is the same in concept.
There are 4 cab bolts, the steering column, the master cylinder, and the shifting setup to contend with.

Good luck!

 

Thanks banjopicker I will try that. It sounds like it will reduce alot of work.
When I put the cab back on do I need to do anything special with the steering and how it hooks up the gear box?

 

It will be easier to reassemble and line up the cab if you pull the steering column. Afterwards replace the rubber boot on the bottom of the column, then paint the parts and reassemble. I'd stick in a new rag joint at the same time. You should buy new rubber "biscuits" for the cab and core support. Likely you will need your sawsall to get the cab and core support bolts. Just raise it a bit and cut the bolts between the biscuit and cab support and same in the front for the core support. Since the doors are heavy you may want to pull them as well. Depending on how you hoist the cab as to whether you need to do that. Be sure all the gas is out. There’s more but you will discover that as you raise the cab. Good luck!

 

Earl, I have never done it, but often wonder about aliegnment of the fenders and doors. There are only 6 points that holds the cab/front clip to the chassis, and several other mentioned items connect to other parts of the truck.

The cab/front clip should weigh in the 500-600 pound range, so it wont require a super duty overhead lift point.

Having a new setup under you sheet metal without having to line up everything could be a beautiful thang. IMHO

John

 

As Mike mentioned, not clear what intend to do. Are you taking the 66 body and placing it on later model frame? If not, may want to consider upgrades at this time. Drove my 65 for some 30 + before going w/ power steering and wish had done it sooner. Have another 65 F100 and would like to place body on later model 4X4 frame but believe the fenders and sheet metal are not enterchangeable, perhaps more knowledgeable member can advise. Novice do it myselfer who took on restoration of 65 F100 as a learning project, to include body and paint. With respect to paint issue, may want to post topic in the FTE 'paint and body' forum, found members helpfull and knowledgeable in that area. Unfortunately, started paint project before coming across FTE, and on advice from paint sales person went with acylic enamel, may have not been the best choice. Had rust issues and stripped to bare metal, think will find should try and avoid if possible. Alot depends on existing conditions of sheet metal and paint. Found regardless of type of paint used, requires 85 percent prep and about 15 percent painting. Please w/ outcome of entire project considering working conditions. Painting outside amongst the redwoods can be a challenge.

dave