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I took the car to a NMCA race this weekend, first time I did any serious pulling since the truck got any mods. I put the superchips programmer on the 'tow safe' setting and changed the oil, hooked up the 26' box trailer and 3300lb. car with another 500lbs. of stuff and headed out. *anybody care to guess the weight of the trailer?* The truck pulled fine. The EGTs had me worried, as I had yet to see temps over 950. But pulling on hills made this thing HOT! It got up to 1100 a bunch. It probably would have been higher but I backed out of the throttle some and made an angry face at my gauges.
So how hot can I go before worrying?
I set my limit at 1200, with limited excursions to 1250. I've heard of some folks running 1250 or more for long distances without complications, but I'm chicken.
Edit: my pyro is pre-turbo. If yours is post-turbo, anything over 900 is too hot.
1200 degrees is a safe maximum. The occasional transgression to 1250 wont get you in trouble but running that hot for prolonged periods is pushing the envelope farther than I care to push it (can't afford to buy a new engine).
The melting point of aluminum is 1220 degrees F. The T444E has aluminum alloy pistons. I know you can change the physical properties of elements by alloying them with other elements but I dont know how much you can change it. I also realize that EGT of 1250 doesnt mean the temp of the metal parts has reached 1250, that would take prolonged exposure (sound familiar).
It is better and safer to back off. After all running at 60MPH for a short time, instead of 65 or 70, isn't really going to save $10000 worth of time.
is it true that once the Psd's start climbin in egt numbers that (assuming you have an automatic) if you kick it outta overdrive and get the rpm's higher, the egt's will decline at a reasonably fast rate? somebody told me this works so I was just wondering. I mean it makes sense to a point. Assuming the fact that your water pump spins the exact amount of rpms your motor does would lead me to believe that it would be pushing more coolant through out the block at a faster rate then it would a lets say 1500 rpms. thus leading me to believe it would cool down faster at a higher rate of rpms. the other side to that is the fact that higher rpms usually means more heat, as the motor works twice as hard at 3000 then it did at 1500, thus creating more heat. do ya follow? lol, lets hope so. So now that i have said that, tell me what ya know and correct me if im wrong. thanks gentlemen for your ever so privellaged time, LMFAO
By raising the rpms at a given load, you reduce the power required by the motor for each revolution. Less fuel for each cylinder firing reduces the EGT's. Water temp will have little to do with the short-term EGT values.
Water temp will have little to do with the short-term EGT values.
For long term values holding 1200* going up an incline pulling a trailer your water temp will increase and cause you to have to back off the pedal. I thought about my thermostate not opening up all the way, but that heat adsorbs in to the block and heats the water, so I'm not going to worry about it.
For long term values holding 1200* going up an incline pulling a trailer your water temp will increase and cause you to have to back off the pedal. I thought about my thermostate not opening up all the way, but that heat adsorbs in to the block and heats the water, so I'm not going to worry about it.
I'd only be concerned if the temp guage moves near the high end. The fan clutch should kick in & cool off the water rapidly if the temp goes over the "A" or "L" in "NORMAL"; back off if it goes higer than that.
I have never seen my water temp go past the M in normal and that was on a long, 8 miles, grade pulling my 11,000 lb fiver.
That would be the expected state. I've had some loads (14k 5'er, 20mph headwind) that have run mine to the "L" (Montgomery Pass, 7200ft in 6 mi on 395 in CA).