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Old May 8, 2006 | 03:30 AM
  #1  
Pablo-UA's Avatar
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Help! No spark!

Yesterday I stopped on red and engine stalled. I triet to start it again, but unsucsessfully!

No spark, no pulses on coil.

What may it be? May be Hall effect sensor ore may be coil resistor (I dont know where is it located?).

How to find problem?
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 10:07 AM
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Pablo:

Sorry to hear that. What year, and engine size?
 
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Old May 10, 2006 | 08:41 AM
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'89 3.0 EFI! Yesterday I tried to start it. Egine started, but idle was rought. Stalled in 1 mile. I tried to start again, but battery was low. I want to get osciloscope to check PIP signal. I've heard, sometimes coil resistor may cause this problem, but I don't know were is it? May be my TFI went out. So what a procedure to find a problem? I don't want to replace good parts.

I think about engine swap. My engine is OK, but I want to get turbo-diesel. It seems to me Mercedes 2.4 R4 diesel is the best for aero. But it costs here up to $1000 with tranny.
 
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Pablo-UA
May be my TFI went out.
That'll be my guess too. Can you read the code and tell us?
 
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Old May 10, 2006 | 01:58 PM
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Hi Pablo,
Ford's TFI's are notorius for failure, overheating design problem...failed TFI's left family members stranded several times on logging roads up in the hills...walked out miles

see if these sites help

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3349/test.htm
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/f...349/remote.htm
http://www.onr.com/user/pbooth/mustang/tfi.html
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec2002/techtotech.cfm
 
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Old May 10, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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Hi Pablo,

they dumped my first post into moderated section because of links so try this site

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3349/test.htm

my family has been stranded by failed TFI's several times up logging roads...walked out miles
Ford went thru numerous lawsuits over this design failure, component overheating and failure
 
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Old May 12, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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Yes! It is TFI! PIP signal is good! I tried to use russian TFI for 4-cyl engine, but idle is not good and it is strange, but there is no spark on cyl #4 (I can see it on osciloscope!). May be I know why. Russian TFIs makes spark when PIP signal changes from +5 v. to 0, and pulse of cyl #4 is shorter, so spark timing on cyl #4 is not correct. May be original FORD TFI sparks when PIP changes from 0 to +12 volt....

Tommorow I wanna try to find original TFI in Lugansk. Finaly its time to drive to dealer....
 
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Old May 12, 2006 | 01:37 PM
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One more quation! With non-original TFI spark is goodm but my coil is 17 years old! May be old coil cause TFI death?
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 07:19 AM
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I had to drive to dealer. TFI is $120. But the gue said, that he has a distributor from Bronco, used , but for $20. So I replaced TFI, and my old lady runs well. I want to take this distributor apart, but I dont know how to remove a cam wheel.
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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Sorry for what must sound like a simple question, but what is a TFI and waht does TFI stand for? Is that the little plug-in module at the base of the distributer? I had one of those things in an older Escort that left me stranded once. I remember having to use a small mirror just to locate it and several bandages to change it.
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 08:08 AM
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Look! I have distributor from 2.9 V6. This distributor does not fit aero, but TFI from this distributor is on my ero now. I want ro have spare hall effect sensor, but I dont know how to remove it from distributor of bronco. To replace my is easy! I've heard press is required, but I had never did it!
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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What caused the TFI death is excessive heat due to its location. The solution is to move it to either the passenger side fender or the radiator support. I belive the ford dealership should have this. It may even be free.
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 12:12 PM
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Kan! I've taken TFI apart! Card is broken! How to relocate TFI? There is a thermo paste under the TFI. Body of distributor is used as radiator. But lets look at this situation again! My TFI is 17 years old!
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 02:42 PM
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replacing Hall sensor> snip
"Notes: I have personally experienced a failed Hall Sensor. This part was very difficult and obscure to track down. It took one year of problems to finally track it. Trends I noticed were the following: The car would just stall for no reason and would not start for maybe 5 to 10 minutes. Sometimes, it was just difficult to start. It seemed oversensitive to humid weather and died a few times in the rain.
The car would intermittently lean backfire or start running poorly. In one case, it backfired several times one night, at which time, I got really aggressive at tracking the problem. Replacing the TFI module is a 5 minute deal, but changing the Hall Sensor requires removal of the distributor and a shop to press the cam gear on and off."
http://www.onr.com/user/pbooth/mustang/tfi.html

moving TFI>
suggest air box or better yet in front of radiator on aluminum or copper heat sink block, use silicone heat sink compound from electronics store or any buddies that DIY large car stereo amps
old heater core may work well
use shielded cable to protect PIP, Hall effect and tach signals from ign. spark emf pulses
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3349/remote.htm

Pablo,
won't help you any in the Ukraine but indicates how bad the Ford TFI problem was here in US
http://www.tfisettlement.com/
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; May 17, 2006 at 02:51 PM.
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Old May 19, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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There is a paste betven TFI and distributor! As I've understood for better cooling. Is it common thermo-paste used in electronic industry?
And what is averege life-time of TFI?
 
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